02silverbulletZ28

im was debating on putting a big block in but I already have a 350 that is in the car, i recently bought a 71 chevelle. It has the factory 350 in it that i want to rebuild to get it running, have something with a little power to run it down the track and just have a little fun with it until i get everything together to have a turbo fuel injected motor in it. so i need a little advice, im looking at getting a summit pro packs 350 rebuild kit, i am going to do a .030 over which is better for what im looking for the kit with kb hypereutectic pistons or with forged pistons. as for cam im looking at comp cams big ***** thumpr cam. heads im looking at edelbrock e-street or performer rpm heads? as for an intake manifold im looking at the edelbrock performer or vic jr? can someone give me a little advice so i can get to ordering these parts and get some life back in this chevelle. i am planning on running about 150 shot of nitrous please keep that in mind. i want to build this engine myself, i have never used nitrous so im kind of lost on where to start with this build. i don't want advice on where to take it as i really want to do everything on the car myself. im trying to keep this build as relatively as cheap as possible, as this motor wont be the one staying in it as i have other plans. but i want to have a reliable motor that can handle nitrous and hopefully get 450+hp before spray. this motor will probably stay in the car for a year or so while i build the rest of the car. to be able to handle the turbo fuel injected motor that i plan for, i really appreciate any help i can get thank you.

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

you are going the wrong way to get your goals. if you are wanting around that power go with a 383 since you are in the bottom end.

- run a 6" h-beam rod and a good nitrous forged flat top pistons and some good rings i recommend total seal. call total seal and see what they recommend. dont skimp on the bottom end, china steel parts are good. i recommend Ohio Crankshafts <<< google them. DO NOT RUN KB ANYTHING ...... EVER

- heads run what you want get around a 70-72 cc combustion chamber to keep the compression in a pump gas friendly zone. have the intake runners around a 200-215 cc and as large as a valve you can get on both int and exh.

- on the cam get a nitrous grind, dont even look at the thumper series those will not make any power, those cams are just for the "potato, potato, potato" sound. for the budget minded person go with a solid flat tappet cam to keep the cost down. try the comp cams 12-405-5 290AS-14.

- intake run the Super Victor II pn 2892 <<<< best intake on the market. or Professional Products Hurricane intake pn 52031 <<<< lots of porting required

- carb a 750 hp holley will do the trick

- ARP everything

- good msd ign system, a digital6 box works great

- dont forget a good fuel system. if you build it like above i would recommend a stand alone fuel system and spray all the nitrous's >>>>> 300 hp shot ftmfw

I know you are on a budget and this seems a little extreme, but trust me i have already done what you are asking and those motors dont last long at all, what i described above does. it may take a little longer to build it this way but the wait will be worth it. i have done it for years just look up v8sten on youtube and see for yourself. i ran a similar motor in my old s10 and mustang.

02silverbulletZ28

thank you for all the information i thought about a 383 was just looking at the cheaper option but if it wont last then it isn't cheaper. i will definitely look into everything you are saying, and possibly have more questions down the road. i just got out of the hospital so it will be a couple weeks before i order now, so i will get everything together. do you know of any 383 kits you recommend or just piece one together? i will be checking out your youtube video's thanks for all the great advice!

02silverbulletZ28

i also searched that cam it is saying it is a turbo or blower cam? I found a nitrous comp cam 12-564-4 is this a good nitrous cam or is there a better option? also the crank I looked them up there $720 just for the crank but the have a bottom end kit starting at $800+ should I just buy the crank or buy the 383 kit for $800 and use what I can out of it?

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

That cam i know said its a blower cam but i think it will perform pretty well with nitrous too. nothing wrong with hydraulic but for the power you are wanting on a budget i recommend a solid cam. that cam looks to be a fairly mild cam, at least to me it does.

On the rotating assembly i got the super kit from ohio crankshafts in mine

383/406 Small Block Chevy Super Kit

350 0r 400 mains
OC 4340 3.75" crank
OC 6" H-beam rods
SRP flat-top pistons
Total Seal moly rings
Internally balanced
READY TO ASSEMBLE
SRP dome or dished pistons - add $50
Price $1,749

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevsb_rotate.html

I was thoroughly impressed when i opened the boxes and i ran it really hard for 6ish years before a valve fatigued with hundreds of nitrous bottles through it 2-4 bottles a weekend, every weekend 275-325 hp shot <<<< no joke

02silverbulletZ28

did you use the pistons that came with the kit? whats going to be the best cam for the money, if im going to spend the money for the 383 id rather just spend a little extra money and get a good cam. also with the setup in your s10 what kind of power were you making? how did you have your nitrous setup im new to nitrous, was it on a wot switch? and wet or dry system?

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

- Yah I used them (SRP flat tops)
- a custom grind cam would be the best bet
- power wise i have no clue, it never saw a dyno. but if i were to guess, it would be in the 650-700HP range
- the nitrous engagement is all personal preference, mine was on a WOT micro switch, i controlled the nitrous with my foot if it got hairy. some like it on a button, i dont. to me, the less stuff you have to do the better, so you can concentrate on the road.
- My kit was a wet plate kit.

On a side note, I know you want to go turbos in the future. nothing wrong with that but dont rule out nitrous. just from my personal experience on the streets of mexico, there wasnt much that could beat me. no joke. I had enough power to stick the power and stay out front. that truck wasnt the best at one thing it was great at everything. what i mean by that is, it wasnt set up for 1/4 mile, it wasnt set up for top end, i found a happy medium. i built a budget motor that could spin some rpm (7800 rpm) and i ran as tall of a tire that i could and a good street gear 3.50. with this combo it was capable of a high 9 second 1/4 mile, and a top end speed of 195 mph on the highway. so i could go and do some dig racing, i could do just about any roll race i wanted and so on. now i was no where near the fastest or even on the same level as those guys, (but i did surprise them) but I could beat just about any average joe. the main thing is to build a motor that can take gratuitous amounts of abuse and still keep ticking. the right block is also necessary, I have a GM casting "010" high nickel block (really old school LT1) these on average can handle up to 700ish HP, few can go higher.

Disclaimer >>>> I only speak from personal experience, others may have different opinions.

02silverbulletZ28

I know I want to go turbo, but that was because that's where im more comfortable as I have experience with turbo's. now the whole point in building this motor was to have something to play with and learn about nitrous. Maybe nitrous will change my mind. What your explaining is pretty much where im looking to do with my car, it will see the track a fair amount but I want something I can also drive on the street and have fun in. Is there anyone person or shop that is recommended to get to spec out or make a custom grind cam? also on a nitrous motor is there anything you have to do differently on the motor as far as when your going to use nitrous? timing? etc.. or are you always ready to use it, like if your on the street and wanted to use it, is it ready at any point? also is a purge a good investment I noticed it didn't seem like a purge came with any of the kits, but was always told you want to purge the nitrous to get all the air out of the line. and is a purge a something that is a must have to run nitrous? like I said this is all new to me so please bare with me. and say I run a big shot like yourself, do you run two bottles or just have two having one as a spare bottle? and what size bottle or bottles? just get a 20lb bottle? also is there one kit that is any better then any other kit or are they all just about the same and just have to find one that has the jets I would need and for a carb setup? Thanks for all the help and great advice

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

I know I want to go turbo, but that was because that's where im more comfortable as I have experience with turbo's. now the whole point in building this motor was to have something to play with and learn about nitrous. Maybe nitrous will change my mind. What your explaining is pretty much where im looking to do with my car, it will see the track a fair amount but I want something I can also drive on the street and have fun in.

Is there anyone person or shop that is recommended to get to spec out or make a custom grind cam?

There are plenty of good shops. but there are a few factors that you will have to know before you place the order. what power band, what do the heads flow and at what lift and many others. i personally was going to use Tom Nelson of Nelson Racing Engines (not cheap)

also on a nitrous motor is there anything you have to do differently on the motor as far as when your going to use nitrous? timing? etc.. or are you always ready to use it, like if your on the street and wanted to use it, is it ready at any point?

tune the motor to run best on motor first then you can tune the nitrous with jetting, fuel pressure and timing retard through the ign box

also is a purge a good investment I noticed it didn't seem like a purge came with any of the kits, but was always told you want to purge the nitrous to get all the air out of the line. and is a purge a something that is a must have to run nitrous?

yes a purge is a good investment it not only bleeds the air out, you can set the bottle pressure where you want for traction reasons

like I said this is all new to me so please bare with me. and say I run a big shot like yourself, do you run two bottles or just have two having one as a spare bottle? and what size bottle or bottles? just get a 20lb bottle?

i personally ran 2 10lbs bottles, easier to maintain pressure in a 10lbs than a 20 lbs bottle, and i had spare bottles just in case

also is there one kit that is any better then any other kit or are they all just about the same and just have to find one that has the jets I would need and for a carb setup?

if you want to run a plate kit get the Nitrous Outlet Stinger plate system. its the best on the market right now.

Thanks for all the help and great advice

02silverbulletZ28

awesome buddy I cant thank you enough, so my best bet is to get the set of heads I want to use first and then call and get a custom cam? with the nitrous do you have both 10lb bottles hooked up or one hooked up and have the second as a spare? sorry I have no knowledge as far as nitrous honestly its a little intimidating. what ignition system should I use? right now the car is bone stock still has the original points distributor.

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Don knows what he's talking about. His little s10 was no joke, and neither was the coupe with the same powerplant.

02silverbulletZ28

obviously im set on the 383, but like I said this will not be the forever power plant as I want to go fuel injected lq4 with turbo. I had someone tell me that scat makes a 383 kit that is good pn from summit it SCA-1-92000, FOR $730. Is this a decent option? anyway I can cut cost but still build a good engine, im just trying to get this build going with being in the hospital money is tight, but I can order this kit now and get this build on the way if its a reasonable option. fingers crossed this will work, its just going to be a little while before I can swing $1800 just for the rotating assembly. I know the other ohio crankshafts is probably my best option im just trying to keep this as budget friendly as possible since this wont be the last power plant I build for this car.

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Sounds like a cast crank, no bearings type deal. If you look around a bit you can find a complete rotating assembley for a few bucks more. I'm a fan of the scat stuff. It's Japanese, but decent quality, and not to be confused with Chinese. Eagle quality isn't what it used to be, also Japanese. Ohio crankshaft is probably the largest North American manufacturer, and they also supply parts to the big 3. Just remember if your building a basic street engine, cast crank is fine. But like was said earlier in the post if you want to be able to zing the motor up there in rpm it's not a very good choice. Nodular iron is kind of in between cast and forged in terms of strength. I prefer to run I beam rods because it's less reciprocating weight and the engine seems to rev a little more freely. The KB pistons are very sensitive to ring gap and I know a few people who have broken ring lands due to incorrect gap. I'd stay away from the hyperuetectic stuff all together and try to get some forged 2618 alloy Pistons. You can get most everything on a budget if you shop around. If your in the hospital it's a perfect way to kill time. That's what I did.

02silverbulletZ28

ok im going to keep looking and see what I can find. would it be better to just piece a kit together myself? if so can anyone give me some advice on which crank, rods, pistons etc. im going to look to see what i can gather up, but im trying to find something that's not top of the line but will handle nitrous. im trying to keep this as cheap as possible but not buying the cheapest thing i can find and throw it together to blow it up. im not in the hospital anymore, i was all last week. i wanted to look up this stuff while i was there but there wifi is horribly slow, so couldn't use the laptop and i get tired of looking at my phone for long periods of time. but gm nationals huge show about an hour from me is this weekend so im trying to get a list together and try to find some stuff up there as far as the bottom end or atleast a nice set of aluminum heads up there. to try to keep the cost down but still make some power. i really just want to go all out with this motor but the woman isn't having it since she knows ill be getting an lq4 and building that for the car here after i get it back on the road. i was lucky i talked her into building a 383 and not just getting the 350 running and being stuck with that until i get the lq4 done. the purpose of this motor really is to get it back on the road and have some fun while still beefing up everything as far as suspension and trans and then getting the lq4 done without rushing it because im itching to drive it. the lq4 im going all out with top of the line everything since that's what i plan on keeping in it.

02silverbulletZ28

with the heads i should definitely be looking into a nice set of aftermarket heads right? what im getting from all of this is if i do all this work and even if i have a gm head reworked its still going to be holding the motor back, also if i need a set of head to get a custom cam for this motor then with using gm heads not only is the heads going to be holding the motor back but now the cam will be because i could of had a better cam if i had better heads when i had the cam spec'd, am i on the right path here? so if i go up to this show they have a lot of vendors and a huge swap meet so im going to keep my eye out for a set of aluminum heads like v8sten said combustion chamber of 70-72cc and intake or 200-215cc. i figured that's gonna be the best place to atleast save some money on heads, then next month we have super chevy show at a track with another big swap meet so im hoping to find something between this two big shows to help me out

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Friend of mine ran scoggin/dickey vortec center bolt iron heads on a 383 he built a few years back. It's about the best flowing gm head you can buy. If it was me and I had a limited budget I'd scour sites like racing junk, and Craigslist. Try to find a decent set of iron dart heads maybe used off a circle track car or something along those lines. Actually they aren't super pricey new come to think of it. I'm building a 408 out of parts I sourced, but it's a ls based engine. I'm using a lunati voodoo crank, scat I beams, and wiseco pistons. A mix of King, Clevite, and dura bond bearings. I found this while I was just farting around earlier. It's very complete, but again uses a cast crank.http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-383-CHEVY-ROTATING-ASSY-MAHLE-FLAT-TOP-FORGED-PISTONS-4-030-BORE-2PC-RMS-/201046368489?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Here's a guy in Houston selling his 383 cast crank hyperuetectic piston setup complete carb to pan for 2500.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-cla...roker-f-s.html

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

- 4340 int balanced forged crank
- HISS is correct on the weight of the I-beam but they cannot hold gobs of power, thats why I ran H-beam
- Mahle or SRP are both a good budget forged piston
- Total Seal Rings for the street, easier on the cylinder walls
- Clevite bearings, correct ones to match the crank, Prolly H series

Just FYI ...... its cheaper to buy a "drop in" rotating assembly.

HISS

iTrader: (52)

^all good advice^.

02silverbulletZ28

i was just informed by a friend that my girlfriend bought me a 383 rotating assembly....but...she bought me that scat kit that i asked about, i left it open in a tab on the computer a few days ago. i don't have the heart to tell her i didn't want to use that one. so what do i need to make this kit as good as it can be and is there any semi cheap way to make it a little better, im not trying to buy a $700 crank now as that wont go over to well. should i find a cheap set of H beam rods or a better set of pistons? the kit does come with bearings but it doesn't say the manufacture of the bearings. what is the the limitations of this kit as far as rpm, hp and how much nitrous can it handle? also what will the compression ratio be?