bb489

Current engine build as follows:

489 BBC
10-1 compression
049 heads-3 angle valve job, fully ported, 2.19/1.88 valves, bowl job
holley 850 or 950
rpm airgap mainfold
headers with 2" primaries-3" exhaust
chassis=1968 camaro
th-350
3.73 posi
2800 stall
numerous suspension upgrades will be made.

I've been doing a lot of cam research and am just about set on this cam:

Lunati hydraulic roller 300/310, 242/252 @ .050, .595/.612, 110 LSA.

Lunati says it is good for 2500-6500 rpms. I've read that it is hard to kill torque in a stroked BBC and that a bigger cam with more lift and duration can be used. This car will be mainly a street bruiser with some strip time every so often. I like a rough idle and gas mileage is of min. concern. I only have power steering, no a/c, no power breaks. Will be just engine under the hood and that is it! I ran this cam on a computer simulator and it gave me the best power-572 hp and 590 lbs of torque. But I really value the opinions on this site and would like to hear what you all think before I make the purchase. Thanks everyone!

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

that cam sounds about right.you should have you one tire-frying machine!

white_ta

That sounds like the perfect size for your application. I would personally go with a bigger one though. Try putting this one in your CP dyno. When my camaro was a streeter, I had a pretty hefty cam. I can't remember exact specs off hand, but something like this: Lift: .698/.700; Advertised Duration: 305/310. It was a real thumper. Nice setup by the way.

BADMOFO

Crane makes a solid lifter cam .312/.312 like .648/.669. It sounds meaner than anything I've heard yet....believe me. If sound is what your after, this is your cam. You won't get the same sound out of hydraulic roller as you will with a solid lifter cam. I'd be curious to know what kind of power your desktop dyno rates this cam at....if you get a chance, try it and let me know.

bb489

Thanks for all the responses! If you all can give me the duration at .050 on those cams I'll run them for you with my computer program. If I went with one of the cams you all mentioned, what would happen to my low-end torque? Would the size of my engine make up for potential torque loss with a cam that big? Also would it be streetable?

SOM98TA

iTrader: (1)

go as big as possible...


with a BBC there is so much power being left on table with a smaller cam...

BADMOFO

270-131541
Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshaft
Lift: .648''/.669''
Duration: 304°/312°
RPM Range: 4600-7600

*Note: In order to use these camshafts in 1965-66 396/427ci blocks, it is necessary to machine a 3/16'' wide x 7/64'' deep groove in the rear main journal of the cam to allow oil flow to the top of the engine.
MODERATE COMPETITION ONLY, GOOD UPPER RPM HP, BRACKET RACING, AUTO TRANS W/RACE CONVERTER

Grind Number: F-268/3814-2S-8
Operating Range: 4600-7600 RPM
Duration Advertised: 304° Intake / 312° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 268° Intake / 276° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .648'' Intake / .669'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 108°
Max Lift Angle: 105° ATDC Intake / 111° BTDC Exhaust
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 29° BTDC (opens) / 59° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 69° BBDC (opens) / 27° ATDC (closes)


or.....



Grind Number: F-256/3634-2S-8
Operating Range: 4200-7000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 292° Intake / 300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 256° Intake / 264° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .618'' Intake / .638'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 108°
Max Lift Angle: 105° ATDC Intake / 111° BTDC Exhaust
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 23° BTDC (opens) / 53° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 63° BBDC (opens) / 21° ATDC (closes)

bb489

Thanks. Those are some BIG cams for a street car with occas. strip time! What would they drive like in a steet camaro with the engine I am building? Would I have any power/torque at all below 3000 rpm?

68maro

i would go bigger also something around 269/276 @.050 with .685/.692 solid roller on a 110. this is a great street cam and makes incredible sound and power i had it in a 468 and it made over 700hp. #1 ditch the th350 and go th400 you're going to roast the th350 quick. #2 ditch the converter definetely not big enough at all the car will be a pig and lurch at stoplights go at least 4000. gears are ok but how big a tire are you putting on? #3 go with a single plane the motor is already going to make a ton of torque so whats the use of a dual plane air gap. #4 to small of a carb. start with an out of the box 1050 dominator and jet it about 88 square. # 5 i would go with a better head but they should work fine for the occ. strip car. #6 do at least a 2 1/4 primary to a 4" collector with 4 " flowmasters. once again you are making a ton of torque the small exhaust is going to make it worse while the bigger primaries will kill some torque and open up some top end horsepower. all in all do this combo based on your heads you'll have a great running street car that should make 600-625hp and traction dependent run high 10'slow 11's and with a good head 630-660hp and definately run high 10's about 125+

bb489

Is a cam that big going to work with a 10-1 compression motor? You know a ton more about this than I do I'm sure, but it is hard for me to believe that a cam that big is streetable. But, then again I've always worked with small blocks.

68maro

you have 489 cubic inches trust me it will be a killer street combo.

bb489

What does it drive like on the steet since that is where most of my driving will be? And again, my compression will be around 10-1, thats not enough for a cam that big is it? If I build the above combo with the parts you mentioned, what kind of fuel do I need to run? When you say 88 square I assume you mean the front and rear jets? Thanks.

jarediocamaro

If you don't mind, how much did it cost you to port your heads and rebuild them with the bigger valves and all that. I have 049 heads too and I was thinking about doing the same thing. I just don't want to be completely shocked when I ask the engine man for an estimate. Sounds like killer engine, I wish i had one of those.

bb489

I originally bought mine for $200 on ebay. Had them pressure checked and magnafluxed for $75. Everything was ok. I then bought the bigger valves 2.19/1.88 (Manley with the under cut head for more flow), and Lunati springs and seals. The guy who is doing my heads used to drag race and do cylinder head work for racing engines back in the 60's here in Florida. I've talked to several people he has done heads for and they were MORE than impressed with the results. So here is what I'm having done.

-installation of bronze valve guides.
-installation of bigger valves.
-4 angle valve job.
-complete pocket porting/bowl porting
-complete porting of intake and exhaust ports
-intake and exhaust gasket matching.
-combustion chamber clean-up.
-heads will be completely assembled with all the parts.
-He said he is porting my heads the exact way he would do a race engine.

Total cost for all the porting and complete head assembly is $500.00! I've been told that the porting work alone could easily cost $1000.00 elsewhere. This guy works for Kennedy Space Center and does this for more of a hobby these days. I'm in no hurry to get these back so he has all the time he needs. So I figure for a bit less than $1000 total cost (including all parts above and labor), I'll have a fully race ported, large valved set of 049s.!!

jarediocamaro

Hey thats great! I am in florida too. I live in Ft Lauderdale. Whats the guys name and where is he located? I was going to go to R & J racing. If you could give me that info Id appreciate it.