jarediocamaro

I am gonna start buying buying some stuff to get the compression up. Heres my questions...
Is the stock connecting rod length 6.135? I have no idea, thats my guess. Should I change my connecting rods if they are not damaged. I say no but my buddy is building a forged everything big inch windsor and he keeps making me want to spend money I dont have!
Also should I go forged pistons or is Hypereutectic aluminum ok.

I would change all the bottom end bolts, as well as balance the rod and piston weight. And I dont see why I wouldnt keep my crank.
I am trying to go super budget but done right to the degree that it can with old crap.
I am shooting for close to 10:1 compression or maybe lower because i am running big combustion chamber 049s for a while.

I will accept any suggestions to help point me in the right direction.

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

Is this for a small block or big block? I noticed the 454 in your sig so im guessing big block. Forged pistons are better, but they are usually used in very high compression situations such as forced induction. They are also used in No2 cars also. They hypereutectics will be cheaper and will be sufficient for what you need them for. The bottom end will not gain you power unless you bore or stroke. So you should basically just build it to hold the power you think you will make. The head selection will be critical in making the power. It all really depends on how much power you will be making. Stock crank and rods will be fine for an N/A car. Just make sure to get your assembly balanced when you get the pistons, rods, crank, balancer, and flexplate/flywheel picked out. Good luck with the build.

jarediocamaro

This is for the 454. I might at some point decide to throw in a 150 shot in there. Yall think it would make any sense to throw in forged pistons and leave the stock rods and just balance them. If i did run nitrous i would use it every now and than at the track. If I am gonna buy a part Id hate to cheap out. But if i dont have to change my rods i would avoid it. But i am gonna get a big rebuild kit change all bearings and bolts. Ill probably only rev it to 6k, maybe 6500 if im feeling a little frisky.

jarediocamaro

Oh and once again what is stock rod length on a 73 454? Or where can I get that information? Thanks.
By the way I think I am gonna buy a

rebuild kit with all bearings except cam bearing

cam bearings

a set of forged pistons

cam lifter and springs

Now i have to decide if i am gonna do the work myself (I'd have to wait for my dad to build a garage)
Or send it out to be done.
Any estimates on the cost of installation?
Anybody know anyone good to do the work in south florida? Im in Ft Lauderdale a little north of Miami. I have a couple of guys like R & J and Little John was suggested by a friend. He raced top fuel or something.

But i would like to find some more options.
Thanks in advance

white_ta

6.135 is the stock rod length for a BBC. I would def. go with the forged pistons if you are going to spray a 150 shot. It's just insurace you know? I had a 396 that made 720 hp on the dyno, and I had a stock crank and rods. Never spun it over 6000 rpm's though. Any higher than that and I would have been risking it, especially with that much power. I would get all the best parts I could if I were you, but with the power you want to make, stock crank and rods should be ok, even with a 150 shot.

jarediocamaro

I went to visit the guy that built my dads motor with the friend thats building a 418 windsor and brought him a bottle of good Zaya Guatamalan rum as a gift since i figured he probably be doing the work for us. Cool guys, they did a good job on my dads car.
I went in for a quote and I think their price is good let me know what you think.
Labor total is $1300 and work includes...
machine work to the block which includes boring .030 over
completely disassembled and rebuilt
all bearing and bolts and freeze plugs changed
balanced rods
externally balanced
cam and bearings installed
rebuilt heads ported and polished (i think he got my dads big oval ports around 300 cfm
repainted and all sealed up and assembled

I think thats really reasonable. Im gonna supply all the parts which which includes a full comp kit with the retainers and locks and springs and seals and chain. Forged speed pros arp rod bolts full engine rebuild kit with all bearings, cam bearings. I totaled it to be under $1050 in parts. And I really dont think I am forgetting anything. If you can think of something Im not factoring let me know. But I think I finally got everything figured out.
Now its time to save up a little bit.

Oh and in case anyone is wondering he is only charging 500 bucks for all the machine work on my friends windsor. His little windsor should be fast, but its still a ford.