Rebuilding 350 4 bolt main for first time...
11-01-2005, 07:15 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by CTSV05
Don't waste your time with stock heads, honestly you can find some decent deals on all kinds of heads.
Chamber size will be determined by your piston. But, if you have a 350 piston it won't work with a 3.75 stroke. Go with a 5.7 rod minimum.
Just to make everyone nevous, my 421 lost the oil p/u so it hurt the rod bearings, anyway I just threw together a cheapo short block, a cast steel stock replacement crank, stock X rods, a set of Speedpro Hyperuetectics, and its holding up just fine to 7k plus shifts, and I'm only running about a tenth and a half slower than my big motor with my smaller cam, of course the new one is still sealing up, so it may be just as quick when all is said and done, total invested?=$900.00!!!
Oh, and the new small motor, sheared off all the wheel studs on the driver side fri., and bent 3 on the pass. side, they were the ones Moser supplied with the axles. So, I put ARP studs in, but I think its making some nice torque!
Chamber size will be determined by your piston. But, if you have a 350 piston it won't work with a 3.75 stroke. Go with a 5.7 rod minimum.
Just to make everyone nevous, my 421 lost the oil p/u so it hurt the rod bearings, anyway I just threw together a cheapo short block, a cast steel stock replacement crank, stock X rods, a set of Speedpro Hyperuetectics, and its holding up just fine to 7k plus shifts, and I'm only running about a tenth and a half slower than my big motor with my smaller cam, of course the new one is still sealing up, so it may be just as quick when all is said and done, total invested?=$900.00!!!
Oh, and the new small motor, sheared off all the wheel studs on the driver side fri., and bent 3 on the pass. side, they were the ones Moser supplied with the axles. So, I put ARP studs in, but I think its making some nice torque!
11-01-2005, 10:16 PM
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I'm not clear on what you mean. If the block is already bored 30 over, and your pistons are 30 over, then you won't have the luxury of setting the side clearence, but I would def. have it checked, in case it is too tight, then they can hone the block to match your pistons.
As far as the 6.0 rod, be sure the pistons are for a 6" rod and you should be fine. I'm sure the crank will work with a 6" rod.
As far as the 6.0 rod, be sure the pistons are for a 6" rod and you should be fine. I'm sure the crank will work with a 6" rod.
11-02-2005, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by CTSV05
I'm not clear on what you mean. If the block is already bored 30 over, and your pistons are 30 over, then you won't have the luxury of setting the side clearence, but I would def. have it checked, in case it is too tight, then they can hone the block to match your pistons.
As far as the 6.0 rod, be sure the pistons are for a 6" rod and you should be fine. I'm sure the crank will work with a 6" rod.
As far as the 6.0 rod, be sure the pistons are for a 6" rod and you should be fine. I'm sure the crank will work with a 6" rod.
These are the pistons I have:
TRW-L2491F30 $41.95 ea.
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Brand: Sealed Power
Product Line: Speed-Pro Power Forged Pistons
Bore (in): 4.030
Piston Material: Forged aluminum
Piston Style: Flat
Compression Distance (in): 1.430
Dish Volume (cc): 3.40
Valve Reliefs: Two
Wrist Pin Style: Press fit or floating
Pin Diameter (in): 0.9270
Top Ring Thickness: 1/16 in.
Second Ring Thickness: 1/16 in.
Oil Ring Thickness: 3/16 in.
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Approximate compression ratios: 11.55:1 with 58cc, 10.76:1 with 64cc, 10.30:1 with 68cc, 9.88:1 with 72cc, and 9.49:1 with 76cc head.
Piston, Forged, Flat Top, 4.030 in. Bore, 1/16 in., 1/16 in., 3/16 in. Ring Grooves, Chevy, 350, Each
Check to make sure this part fits your application
Higher compression, longer life.
Thanks to a special aluminum alloy that doesn't expand as much as other alloys, these Power Forged pistons are designed to fit tight, providing the stability and ring control you need plus the strength you want. Speed-Pro even added ribbed skirts to them for better oil retention and even includes new wrist pins!
11-03-2005, 11:28 PM
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Well, it looks to me as those pistons are for a 350 crank motor, so make sure they will work with your stroker crank.
Rod length will not interfere with cyl. wall clearance. The only issue is if the piston skirt will hit the counter balance throws on the crank with a 6" rod. Honestly, I would buy a 5.7 rod, with a 4.030 piston for a 3.750 stroke, this way you will have a nice thick ring land in case you want to ever spray the motor.
On a 6" rod motor with a longer stroke crank, you begin to lose piston pin height, which can make the top of the piston thin.
Rod length will not interfere with cyl. wall clearance. The only issue is if the piston skirt will hit the counter balance throws on the crank with a 6" rod. Honestly, I would buy a 5.7 rod, with a 4.030 piston for a 3.750 stroke, this way you will have a nice thick ring land in case you want to ever spray the motor.
On a 6" rod motor with a longer stroke crank, you begin to lose piston pin height, which can make the top of the piston thin.
11-04-2005, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by CTSV05
Well, it looks to me as those pistons are for a 350 crank motor, so make sure they will work with your stroker crank.
Rod length will not interfere with cyl. wall clearance. The only issue is if the piston skirt will hit the counter balance throws on the crank with a 6" rod. Honestly, I would buy a 5.7 rod, with a 4.030 piston for a 3.750 stroke, this way you will have a nice thick ring land in case you want to ever spray the motor.
On a 6" rod motor with a longer stroke crank, you begin to lose piston pin height, which can make the top of the piston thin.
Rod length will not interfere with cyl. wall clearance. The only issue is if the piston skirt will hit the counter balance throws on the crank with a 6" rod. Honestly, I would buy a 5.7 rod, with a 4.030 piston for a 3.750 stroke, this way you will have a nice thick ring land in case you want to ever spray the motor.
On a 6" rod motor with a longer stroke crank, you begin to lose piston pin height, which can make the top of the piston thin.
CTSV05 - I've checked that part number over and over again and I'm pretty sure those are 383ci pistons for use on a 400ci (383ci) crank.
Here is one add from JEGS:
SB-Chevy Stroker Pistons
844-L2491F30 383ci Stroker Engines using 400 Crank, .030'' Overbore
Piston Dia.: 4.030''
Piston Top: Flat, 2-Valve Reliefs
Press or Floating Pin
Comp Ratio: 11.55:1 w/58cc Head, 9.49:1 w/76cc Head
Ring Grooves: 1/16'', 1/16'', 3/16''
Sold as Each
$41.99 Add to cart
Add to wish list
Here is the one from Summit:
Make CHEVROLET
Engine Type V8
Liter 5.7
CID 350
Engine Size 5.7L/350
Beginning Year 1967
Ending Year 1997
Engine Family Chevy small block Gen I
Rod Length (in) 5.700
Stroke (in) 3.750
Application Notes 383 cu. in. stroker (350 cu. in. block, 400 cu. in. crank). Deck clearance: 0.020 in. Skirt clearance: 0.0050 in. Weight: 497g.
My rods arrived yesterday. They are 6.00" 5140 forged CAT rods. A lot of folks tell me to go with a longer rod for longevity of the motor because the rod is not having to work so hard to spin the crank. They were all adamant about telling me to make sure I had 383ci pistons so that I don't burn them up as you were saying. Also I have no intentions on sraying this motor. If you still think this is a bad idea will you please let me know why so I don't make a mistake? I really appreciate the help that your are giving me.
