Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

Vortec computer requirements?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-15-2006, 08:50 PM
  #1  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
Diamond Jim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Coastal NC
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Vortec computer requirements?

We have a free low milage take out 5.7L Vortec from a '97 pickup, that has been setting in the back of a body shop for a number of years. No wiring harness, no ECM, basicaly a long block with complete intake manifolds, injectors, throttle body, coil, distributer, and most sensors from the engine. (Engine was cut out of a wreck). We want to drop it in an older S-10/S-15 with a four speed (Muncie)standard trans. Not worried about smog/emission testing for this vehicle, so what is the minimum we need to run it. I am thinking knock snensor, temperature sensor, change the distributer for an older vacumn/mech. advance type, MAF, IAT, TPI, IAP, MAP? We really want to do away with as much as possiable, without going to a Carb system.

Any realistic, good, suggestions will be considered.
Old 04-15-2006, 10:06 PM
  #2  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
TwoFast4Lv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Posts: 10,023
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

OR drop a GMPP intake on it and run MEGA SQUIRT

There is also the Holley Stealth Ram. It is a good looking setup and will bolt right on as well.

For probably around $1,000 you can do either one and have real injectors and not have the troublesome(to some) injector pack. Both look Cooler IMHO then the plastic top

Not to mention you can easily pimp the Vortec setup on E-bay to off set costs!

Using many of the sensors you already have Mega Squirt will run your injection just fine

Good luck!
Old 04-18-2006, 11:55 PM
  #3  
Teching In
 
chasto22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default about 97 vortec

i have a hole motor trans wires computer and all the front parts like power steering and a/c fan new water pump i have it all for sale for 800 4l60 trans with wires will seperate
Old 04-19-2006, 12:16 AM
  #4  
Launching!
 
383LT1S10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: North Star, Ohio
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

OR drop a GMPP intake on it and run MEGA SQUIRT

I love your thinking!
Old 04-19-2006, 03:46 PM
  #5  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
 
1FSTZ71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Panama City, Fl
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by Diamond Jim
We have a free low milage take out 5.7L Vortec from a '97 pickup, that has been setting in the back of a body shop for a number of years. No wiring harness, no ECM, basicaly a long block with complete intake manifolds, injectors, throttle body, coil, distributer, and most sensors from the engine. (Engine was cut out of a wreck). We want to drop it in an older S-10/S-15 with a four speed (Muncie)standard trans. Not worried about smog/emission testing for this vehicle, so what is the minimum we need to run it. I am thinking knock snensor, temperature sensor, change the distributer for an older vacumn/mech. advance type, MAF, IAT, TPI, IAP, MAP? We really want to do away with as much as possiable, without going to a Carb system.

Any realistic, good, suggestions will be considered.
You won't be able to use the factory FI without the factory distributor etc. The factory intake/injectors suck (19lbhr and mini-poppet style, can't upgrade, they are INSIDE the intake manifold, looks like a spider with the main dist. block and 8 little legs coming off). To be honest either go carbed (cheapest, easiest route) or go with a vortec style fuel-managment system (Stealthram Commander 950, Pro-jection, Accel DFI etc). IF you want to keep the factory setup, grab a painless wiring harness and you can pick up a stock PCM cheap. You need the MAF, IAT, crank sensor under the timing chain cover (this keeps you from upgrading to a double row timing chain), MAP, and a quality fuel system. The factory system on our motors (I have a 98' Vortec 5.7) runs around 58-60psi. Alot higher than a typical FI system, and the factory injectors are REAL finiky to fuel pressure fluctuations. My truck HATED my FMU before I installed a Marine style intake (which uses Bosch EV1 camaro style injectors/rails) and tuned it with larger injectors. If you have any questions shoot me a PM or email. I know this engine pretty well. Carbed honestly sounds the best IMO since your running a manual, and they get crappy mileage with the FI anyways lol. A well tuned carb will run just as good as a FI engine. Maybe not in hard turns lol, but my no-choke manual secondary 830 race carb on my IROC would start up within 2 cranks of the engine, even if it sat for a week without starting. I never had to pump the gas lol. I had a good ignition though

Last edited by 1FSTZ71; 04-19-2006 at 10:44 PM.
Old 04-19-2006, 04:08 PM
  #6  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (37)
 
01WS6/tamu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: somewhere in TX
Posts: 4,902
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

You just need to get a matching computer and harness from one vehicle. A 1996 would be your best bet since they did not have passlock in the PCM.
Old 04-19-2006, 04:16 PM
  #7  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
 
1FSTZ71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Panama City, Fl
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by 01WS6/tamu
You just need to get a matching computer and harness from one vehicle. A 1996 would be your best bet since they did not have passlock in the PCM.
Ya, 96 uses the same CAL files as the 97, 98-00 ECM's are different. A painless harness would be the simplest way and he HAS to use the factory(or aftermarket replacment) distributor and associated sensors etc. But the factory setup sucks IMO.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:55 PM.