For Sale 350 4 bolt main block
02-02-2007, 04:33 PM
#22
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Still got it guys and need it gone.
Someone has to be around IL. that wants a good short block to build up into a awesome motor.
Still make a offer.
Thanks
Someone has to be around IL. that wants a good short block to build up into a awesome motor.
Still make a offer.
Thanks
02-02-2007, 11:59 PM
#24
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The AJF suffix code says it's a 1973 350 that came with a 2 barrel carb and 155hp.
This was posted by a other user on the first page which he ran the suffix code since I listed it. It is a high nickel block by the way since it does have 010 and 020 stamped on the front of the block.
So there is no need to measure anything. I don't think they made a 327 in 1973.
Got to get rid of this block. Taking up space and do not need it for a project so it must go.
This was posted by a other user on the first page which he ran the suffix code since I listed it. It is a high nickel block by the way since it does have 010 and 020 stamped on the front of the block.
So there is no need to measure anything. I don't think they made a 327 in 1973.
Got to get rid of this block. Taking up space and do not need it for a project so it must go.
02-07-2007, 10:43 PM
#25
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Hey Scrambler. If The Block Is A 4.00 Bore It Could Be A 302 327 Or 350. I Dont Believe A 327 Cam With A 4bolt Or A 302 For That Matter. Could Be Wrong There. The Casting Number On The Back Of The Block Tells You What The Block Was Cast For The Vin Numbers On The Front Tell You The Intended Application. The Crank If It Is Cast Will Have A Thin Casting Line Running From One End To The Other. If It Is Steel It Will Have A Wide Seem That Looks To Have Been Ground Down To Blend It In. The Other Way To Check Is To Look At The Balancer. If It Is Very Small To None Then It Is A 327 Or 302. If It Has A Large Balancer It Is A 350. A 327 (and 302 If I Am Not Mistaken) Were Internally Balanced And Didnt Need The Large Balancer As The 350 Due To The Fact That A 350 Is Externally Balanced. It Sounds As If It Is A 350. I Havent Had A Chance To Runn Your Numbers But If It Is The Original Engine Than It Is Probably A 350. How Much Wear Is There In The Cylinders. Also The Heads For That Early Of A Model Probably Didnt Have Bracket Bolt Holes In The Front Of The Heads If You Have Them To Look At. I Hope This Helped You A Bit.
Shaker
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02-08-2007, 02:31 PM
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Thanks
I doubt its a 327 or even a 302. I do not have the heads. As stated someone else ran the numbers for me and said its a 350.
I will check for a which style lines are on the crank. Do I have to pull the crank to see the lines or just turn the crank till I see it.
Just need to get rid of this block.
Any offers. Would make a great motor for a project car.
I doubt its a 327 or even a 302. I do not have the heads. As stated someone else ran the numbers for me and said its a 350.
I will check for a which style lines are on the crank. Do I have to pull the crank to see the lines or just turn the crank till I see it.
Just need to get rid of this block.
Any offers. Would make a great motor for a project car.
02-08-2007, 03:25 PM
#27
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If I was local I would buy it, But im currently in Kyrgyzstan till June. Good luck on the sale, it sounds like a good starting point for a garage build and exactly what i would be looking for but once again im not local so I will have to find one somewher else.
02-17-2007, 01:04 PM
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you never put down an asking price and how long has it been sitting around. do you know why it was pulled/removed from the vehicle. a block can be cracked (especially where it is located)and if you cant gaurentee it not to be than you will make a hard sell for more than 50.00. i dont need it as i have one myself along with too many more . just trying to help so dont take it the wrong way. also you asked about the cast or steel crank id. is the pan off? if so look at the first throw behinb the front seal. you should be able to see the cast or forge marks there. if you look at the flywheel flange also you can see it if you look closely. good luck
shaker
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02-18-2007, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SHAKER
you never put down an asking price and how long has it been sitting around. do you know why it was pulled/removed from the vehicle. a block can be cracked (especially where it is located)and if you cant gaurentee it not to be than you will make a hard sell for more than 50.00. i dont need it as i have one myself along with too many more . just trying to help so dont take it the wrong way. also you asked about the cast or steel crank id. is the pan off? if so look at the first throw behinb the front seal. you should be able to see the cast or forge marks there. if you look at the flywheel flange also you can see it if you look closely. good luck
shaker
shaker
That is most likely why no one wants it since its local pickup and everyone lives to far away. But anyone is welcome to come and take a look at it for yourself. You don't like it then don't buy it.
If it don't sell then I guess I will keep it. I have to many motors and decided to let one go.
