carbed engine tuning. were in so-cal
06-12-2008, 11:19 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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carbed engine tuning. were in so-cal anyone know a shop that would tuned my engine is so-cal, ventura county area. but im close to LA.
just need some basic tuning so it will idle. it runs good throughout the entire power band, but cant get the carb tuned so it will idle . i just put the billiet proform base on it (its a 750 doulbe pumper)
if you throw me some tips im sure i could figure it out
just need some basic tuning so it will idle. it runs good throughout the entire power band, but cant get the carb tuned so it will idle . i just put the billiet proform base on it (its a 750 doulbe pumper)
if you throw me some tips im sure i could figure it out
06-13-2008, 11:47 AM
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I dont know anyone near you, but here are two excellent places I know:
Vrbancic Bros.
1463 Philadelphia
Ontario, CA 91761
(909) 930-9980
Westech Performance
11098 Venture Drive #C
Mira Loma, CA 91752
(951) 685-4767
Vrbancic Bros.
1463 Philadelphia
Ontario, CA 91761
(909) 930-9980
Westech Performance
11098 Venture Drive #C
Mira Loma, CA 91752
(951) 685-4767
06-13-2008, 12:10 PM
#5
if it's a radical cam then that will prevent idle tuning but assuming it should idle down to 700-800 rpm throw a vacuum gauge on the intake and watch the steadiness of the needle. If at 900-1000 rpm hopefully, or whatever you can get it down to, if the needle is bouncing then that may be indicating bad valve timing, bad valves or valve seals. If you google vacuum gauge you can find instructions on how to read the vacuum gauge.... if the needle bounces this way it may be this, bounces the other way it's that, etc.
I was going to say check the fuel level in the bowl, correct fuel level is always step 1, but you said it runs good otherwise so that probably isn't it or has little to do with it.
Other thing may be ignition timing not the best at low rpm, or the ignition system is not stable or weak at low rpm (unlikely if it runs at high rpm) or your plugs can be fouling and not firing well at low rpm if they're wrong heat range. If plugs are sooty black (dry fouled) then go one heat range hotter. Other thing is are the secondary plates closed all the way at idle? proper setting for them is closed but just open enough so the blades don't bind. they may not be closing all the way and letting too much air in which will make it impossible to idle. and you didn't mention the idle problem, does it putt putt down to very low rpm and die, or does it never want to come below 1000 rpm, or does it not hold at smooth 600-800 rpm?
I was going to say check the fuel level in the bowl, correct fuel level is always step 1, but you said it runs good otherwise so that probably isn't it or has little to do with it.
Other thing may be ignition timing not the best at low rpm, or the ignition system is not stable or weak at low rpm (unlikely if it runs at high rpm) or your plugs can be fouling and not firing well at low rpm if they're wrong heat range. If plugs are sooty black (dry fouled) then go one heat range hotter. Other thing is are the secondary plates closed all the way at idle? proper setting for them is closed but just open enough so the blades don't bind. they may not be closing all the way and letting too much air in which will make it impossible to idle. and you didn't mention the idle problem, does it putt putt down to very low rpm and die, or does it never want to come below 1000 rpm, or does it not hold at smooth 600-800 rpm?