BADDAZZWS6

I want to lower my TA. I have 18 x 10.5 on rear and 18 x 9.5 on front with 285/40 rear tires and 275/40 fronts. What lowering kit would work and any mods if needed to keep tires from rubbing?

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

If you wanna ghettofy it on the cheap, you can torch the springs and let it settle.

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

You'll need LCA relocating brackets, adjustable panhard bar, (adjustable LCAs wouldn't be a bad choice). For lowering, stranoparts.com (a sponsor) is a great place. For the adjustable stuff, you can either get it from him aswell, or go to umiperformance.com (another sponsor).

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I have the Eibach Pro Kit on mine..I bought the Adj. Panhard Bar..didn't need the LCA Relocation Brackets.

BADDAZZWS6

Ok im going to sound stupid for a second, whats the Panhard bar, and LCA'S.
sORRY and I call my self a car enthusiast

BADDAZZWS6

I have heard good and BAD things from Eibach.....hmmm how hard is it to lower this bitch..and no fam with Panhard or LCA'S?

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

x2 on the Strano springs, I highly recommend them. Sits right, rides well, and handles great.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I have no problem with my Eibachs..it looks great. It's a stiff ride..no Caddy by any means, but it handles great.

It's pretty easy to lower the Car..the back is real simple, the front takes a little longer cause you need a Coil Spring Tool, and it is a little more indepth to take it apart.

The Panhard Bar is the bar in the back of the Car that runs horizontal, it's mounted between the Passengers Frame and the Drivers side on the Axle. It controls the side-to-side movement of the Rear Axle..and adjustable one is recommended when you lower a car. I have the UMI Double-Adjustable Panhard Bar.

The Lower Control Arms (LCA's) connect to the bottom of the Frame of the Car, and the bottom of the Axle. I have the UMI Performance Tubular ones.

You can see them both in this pic, the Panhard Bar is at the very top of the pic..

Darbadocious

iTrader: (2)

Hey man. I went with the prokit when i had the TA, but it eventually ended up sagging in the rear so i swapped over to BMR. LCA relocation brackets will really help with your traction. In addition to the LCARB and adj PHB, you might want to throw in an adjustable torque arm so you can get the correct pinion angle. You may get some vibrations at certain speeds if that angle gets too far off from lowering it. you shouldnt need to worry about rolling the fenders with only 10.5's in the back but you might have to. I had 11's and shouldve rolled the fenders but never got around to it so my sidewalls would get really chewed up.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

I also run BMR with Bilstein HD's and an adjustable panhard bar. Looks great, handles great.
Strano is the man when it comes to suspensions though. I'd definetely look him up. if you haven't already.

BADDAZZWS6

dAMN THANKS guys I will lookup this stuff and piece together a lowering kit I love the look i guess i can always go back to 275 in the rear to keep the rub down but i love the look of the 285's..maybe i shud just not lower it at all haha

BADDAZZWS6

Should i get the double or single adjustable parts?

BADDAZZWS6

Well guys got it all fig out I think jsut need to know if i need the double or single adjustable parts and one final silly question. I can only afford one or the other so Drilled slotted rotors and new pads all around or lower the TA? Oh and im not ignoreing the brakes the rotors are still good just need pads and maybe front rotors

Breathing Fire

Well at least single adj. Trust me. Drilled and slotted rotors won't do anything but look cool. I have them, but only for the look no gain in stopping power.

BADDAZZWS6

Cool I think single adj will do fine and good advice on the rotors I fig it was a looks thing so i will keep mine and just buy new pads and go with lowering. Maybe next year i can afford the C-5 upgrade package

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

The Double-Adj Panhard Bar is nice cause you can adjust it while it's on the car..you don't have to unbolt it at all.

bene

iTrader: (16)

To be honest jeff and being realistic, any lowering springs will do as long as they're not Eibach. Strano is the best however you're not going to dedicate your car to road racing or auto-xing so any springs will do... just as long as they're not eibachs. If you're lowering, I highly suggest to do Konis single adj as they are made to handle lowered springs as oppose to other brands like bilsteins, monroes, etc.

On car adj panhard bar (poly/rod end) to keep your rear axle centered, same with LCAs (on car adj)-poly/rod end, and relo-brackets to put your rear axle suspension geometry back to stock is a must.

I don't have adj torque arm, it's recommended for pinion angle adjustment but I don't have one and its fine. No vibrations on any speed. It is a must for 1/4 track racing to get the most traction off the line. If you're getting this make sure it's full length, though.

If you want to improve your brakes, go with stainless steel braided lines and superblue brake fluid, HPS pads, and brembo blank rotors.

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

I had Eibach on my '00 SS and really didn't like them. I also agree with everyone else who recommended Strano parts. If you decide to lower and want some help, let me know. We did Jesse's car in a couple hours at the Hobby shop.

Good points Bene...I need to get some stainless lines.

BADDAZZWS6

Yeah im thinking of jus leaving the lowering **** alone for now seems like a lot of work, maybe i shud work on the breaks first hell i dont know i mean i can get the Strano springs and the kit they sell with the adj LCA'S AND Panhb...thats already about $500. Because I really want the drilled sotted rotors and a good set of pads with stainless lines. But i cant afford brembo more like something off ebay or something like that. I have a feeling stopping might be more important to me right now with the added power! Plus i need tires so that dips way into my fund i only got budgeted a grand

BADDAZZWS6

But i guess i though lowering was just some springs ..lol boy was i wrong