Zenki13.4

iTrader: (3)

So I decided to post this thread because there is nothing on this site about drifting and to show you guys how we do it here up in CANADA and the life of going sideways, now V8 Powered!

So in previous years of my drifting I have been running a 4 cyl S13 SR20det with a GT2871R Garrett turbo charger, bigger 550cc injectors, 3" straight turbo back exhaust, Apexi Power Fc ECU, the basic BPU and made 300whp and 250tq in my 2500lb Hatchback S13.4 Zenki 240sx. I did a 50mm rear wide body and a custom one of S14 Zenki 240sx front end conversion with a natural 20mm flare. Unfortunately at our City's Race Track that just closed at our last drift practice I was doing the bank on our oval track which is a 100-110km/h entry and under steered into the wall and wrote the body off . Luckily my engine any tranny didn't get damaged so I could sell it towards my now new project and learned a lot from the results for next time I'm put in that situation. Since the crash I parked the car for winter and bought a mint, rust free (eat off the bottom clean) replacement 1993 S13 240sx hatchback for $1,850.

I then started pulling off all the parts off my sad 240sx and luckily salvaged all 4 coil overs which only had 3k on them "pheuf" and set them all aside. Next I proceeded to entirely strip my car and cut it into 5 equal parts with zip blades and took it to the scrap metal yard instead of paying for it to get removed as only a shell. After weighing at the scales I was awarded $24 total for the whole shell! Lol. *If anyone is thinking of doing this STOP! Its Not Worth Your While!* Anyways with my old parts sitting in a pile and my old car out of my garage I proceeded to rip out the hurt bag NA 4 cyl KA24de with 170whp and sold it to someone with a daily driver with a blown KA. Next I completely removed all parts/accessories out of the engine bay compartment and painted/clear coated my engine bay a phonex gold yellow. There it sat for a while until I saved up some peanuts for my 2006 Pontiac GT0 Complete Pullout that I got from a T-boned GTO with only 43,000 miles.

Then I ordered my LSX Complete swap kit (CNC Billet Aluminum Motor Mounts, Steel Tranny Cross member, Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder with Adapter Plate, Steel Braided Clutch Lines and New Fittings, Moroso Aluminum Oil Pan w/ Dip tube and Oil pick up, Oil filter relocation, 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers, Sikky Front Sway Bar with End links, 1 piece Steel Drive shaft), along with their wiring splice service from Sikky Manufacturing. Complete LS2 Pullout $5,325, Complete Sikky Swap Kit $3,400, Wiring $550, S&H $563 and Customs $472 Total $10,260, GOAL 420whp/tq.

After that I decided to get new HSD coil overs I found new in the box for $900 from some girl, (brand new they are $1300) and a new Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator. I then removed my rear sub frame and all the suspension and took it and sand blasted it since it was fairly rusty. Next I decided it would look cool to also paint it Phonex Gold Yellow like my engine bay which turned out super nice. I then picked up some gold/yellow adjustable Isis Traction and Toe rods to match the gold/yellow sub frame. While my sub frame was out and befor I painted it I burned out my old worn out rubber bushing's and ordered a set of Powered By Max solid aluminum Sub frame Riser Bushing's that correct my rear roll center 45 degrees. I also ordered the 45• Roll center correction Max Steering Angle Kit from Powered by Max along with their tubular lower control arms and tension rods and will achieve 63• Of steering angle for this next year!

I then spent 6 hours underneath of my car scraping all the oil/grease soaked under coating and re-rubberized rocker guarded the entire underside of the car and wheel wells after I cut and re-welded my rear fenders wells since I'm running a 18 x 13 -11 offset wide wheel in the back and 18 x 10 +2 offset up front. Then after getting the underside cleaned and re-rocker guarded to where you can lick it, I decided I wanted to do a fuel cell this year.

I went to our local Mopac and bought a 10 gallon fuel cell, Aeromotive A1000 and Aeromotive Fuel Filter and first started off the project by cutting out the spare tire well in the back and welded in a 1/16" piece of sheet metal. I next cut out a square offsetting to me in the drivers seat to build my bulkhead box for the fuel cell, since I can't have any fuel fumes entering the cockpit. After I built a 5 sided box I welded it to the edges of the square I cut out where my old spare tire well used to be. I then made a bracket tray out of angle to hold my fuel cell in the bulkhead box that bolts in from underneath. Doing this I actually made my car more ridged in the rear with a cube welded in the back. (I can jump on it without it flexing now!) I then removed my passenger rear quarter window and am in the process of making a lexan window to mount my flush aircraft fuel door into. (Filling my car up though my window, COOL!) I am also still in the process of making my 2.5" steel bulkhead filler tube which will be mandrel bent and bolted to the lexan window and top of the bulkhead box and sealed with gas tank sealer.

Then because my sub frame bushing have been back ordered until the middle of may and I can't weld in my 8 point roll cage without rolling it on a trailer to my dads to get tig welded in, I decided to fix a fiber glass vented hood I got for $40 that needed the front reinforcing ribs on the underneath for strength. I used some 2x1 balsa wood to give it the look of the stock ribs and is super lightweight. I then went ahead and started laying fiberglass cloth over the balsa wood for its new reinforcement support. The next piece of body work is for me to remake my metal passenger s13.4 zenki conversion fender which takes roughly (1 week per fender)

With most of the body work done, or waiting to get put on the car and finished, I started installing my Sikky Swap Kit. First I started off by taking off the gto oil pan and installed the new oil pick up tube and aluminum race oil pan. Next I had to crack off the tranny to install my braided clutch and bleeder line along with the new Wilwood master cylinder and adapter plate. After that I decided that I want to do vbands connecting my exhaust this year so I got a 3.5" stainless vband flange tig welded onto the mild steel headers by my B Pressure Welder buddie and painted the headers flat black. I then had to order a f body shifter offset lever and shifter to make the shifter sit in the correct spot. After getting most of the swap kit installed I went ahead and started bashing my tranny tunnel since the t56 is 2.5 times bigger than my old little sr tranny. It took a while but I finally did it, I had to bash the tranny tunnel so much I popped off the tack welds on my firewall and almost got a stress crack from manipulating the tunnel so much.

After getting the motor test fit in, I pulled it out to re do my power steering rack bushing's to poly along with having to remove the steering column to slip the headers on, so its sitting in front of my engine bay waiting to get put back in. So while I was looking at it on the ground I decided that I wanted to do a cable driven throttle body, so I found a ls2 Fast 92mm throttle body and got my intake ported by ls2portworks.com. With having no plastic valve cover, covers I decided to polish my valve covers from the ugly rough cast colour to a mirror finish which I spent roughly 30hrs sanding/polishing. Along with taking the valve covers off I removed my rocker arms and push rods and pick myself up a new set of hardened cromoly Trick Flow push rods and the Comp Cam Trunnion Upgrade from Summit Racing. I then hammered out the old trunnions and pressed in the 100% sealed trunnions with a press, which only 1 out of the 16 was a tiny bit rough but will work itself in with time. I then went ahead and re-installed my rocker arms and new push rods and am about to do the "feel good method" to tighten them back down.

With mostly waiting for parts to arrive I've been painting/rocker guarding the interior of my car black since its stock colour was red and taking care of all the small things such as Burn the Bushing Out Of Rear Spindles, Buy Lexan/Install, Buy/Install Big Air Filter & Fuel lines and Fittings, Buy/Make CAI Behind Headlight, Clean Under Shifter, Cut Out Rad Support For Headlights, Finish Dual Caliper E-brake Bracket, Get Exhaust Made(3.5" y pipe to a single 4" to dual 4" two foot tips, Install Front Sway bar, Install Intake/Throttle Body, Install New Spindle Bushing's, Install Oil Dip Tube (ask sikky about extra bolts), Install Sub frame Bushing's/Suspension, Make Conversion Fender, Make Up E-Brake Assembly, Mock Up Gas Filler Tube To Get Made, Mount Overfenders On and Sand, Paint Crank Pulley and AC Pulley Gold, Sand blast Rear Spindles & Paint, Sand/Paint Car, Strip Out Dash, Take Out Steering Column When Motor Goes Back In, and Trim Oil Pan Bolts.

There is probably still stuff I forgot to mention and will fill it in as I go and update pics and video. Any Positive or Negative feedback is appreciated. Thanks For Looking!