overload resistor for power window motor (located where?)
10-13-2008, 03:31 PM
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overload resistor for power window motor (located where?) car: 2001 camaro
I have not pulled the door skins off yet.
However does anyone know where the resistor for the power window motor is located (in the mechanical housing, inline with the motor)? This resistor is a overload resistor for safety. I want to bypass mine.
I have not pulled the door skins off yet.
However does anyone know where the resistor for the power window motor is located (in the mechanical housing, inline with the motor)? This resistor is a overload resistor for safety. I want to bypass mine.
10-13-2008, 04:34 PM
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nevermind got my answer
Originally Posted by BowTieBear
instructions as follows:
After having replaced my window motors twice (using Shoeboxes instructions). I decided to see what was going bad with them. I checked the resistance of the wiring and switch by installing a voltmeter at the plug to the motor. I got a good 13.5 volts. I lubed the guides, rollers, etc for the window.....still it would 'hang up'.
So as some of you know the motors have a sort of thermal circuit breaker which is nothing more than thin strip of copper material which after being heated up (due to the motor encountering some resistance like in our 10 year old cars) it 'trips' until the little strip cools down then you can keep trying to raise your window..sometimes it takes forever to get them all the way up.
I decided to tear the motor apart. It's a very simple device. And the guts are held in by 3 tabs in the body. Bend the tabs out and with a screw driver gently pry up on both sides to get the 'cover' off. The cover retains a set of brushes and 2 small springs. Once you get the cover off you will see a long strip of copper colored material. This is the culprit. It attaches to a brass colored terminal. Below this strip is a longer strip of metal covered in a black insulating rubber type material...this insulates it from the copper strip.
Push up on the copper strip with a small screw driver it's very thin and will bend upwards easily. You will see the black insulated strip below it. Break off the copper strip where it meets the brass terminal it's only attached at that end. Now with the copper strip taken off scrape off some of the insulation with a sharp knife on the remaining metal strip.
What we are going to do is bend the brass terminal (where the copper was attached) against the metal strip that has had it's insulation (about 1/4 inch on the end) taken off. The brass terminal does not have to be completely flat against the metal strip. Now solder (with a soldering iron unless your good with a small soldering torch and some flux cored solder)the brass terminal and the metal strip together. Test your soldering job with a small screw driver (push up on it to make sure it doesn't come apart).
Then put the motor back together:
Straighten the tabs in the back of the brush holders (square box thingees). Pull the commutator from the motor (it comes right out, the magnets in the motor body hold them in). Install the commutator on the cap/brush holder assembly then while holding the commutator in place install the brushes (brushes go with the 'angled' sides away from the motor body),then the springs and bend the little tabs back to hold the springs and brushes in place. Now while holding everything together insert the entire thing back in the body (the magnets will try to pull the commutator off the brush holders so hold it tight). Once everything is in, tap the cap back on. Bend the tabs on the motor back in place to hold the cap. Go to your car plug the motor in and test (by installing the window button and going up then down). If it works then install the motor back in the car and enjoy.
The picture shows the components of the motor (for the exception of the 2 small brush springs). It does not show the copper strip that i removed...only the brass terminal soldered to the metal strip that was below the copper circuit breaker.
I have not had any problems at all with this 'fix'. Remember you are bypassing a circuit breaker so do this at your own risk. As long as you don't leave your finger on the 'up' button for extended periods you won't have a problem with the motor overheating.
Originally Posted by BowTieBear
instructions as follows:
After having replaced my window motors twice (using Shoeboxes instructions). I decided to see what was going bad with them. I checked the resistance of the wiring and switch by installing a voltmeter at the plug to the motor. I got a good 13.5 volts. I lubed the guides, rollers, etc for the window.....still it would 'hang up'.
So as some of you know the motors have a sort of thermal circuit breaker which is nothing more than thin strip of copper material which after being heated up (due to the motor encountering some resistance like in our 10 year old cars) it 'trips' until the little strip cools down then you can keep trying to raise your window..sometimes it takes forever to get them all the way up.
I decided to tear the motor apart. It's a very simple device. And the guts are held in by 3 tabs in the body. Bend the tabs out and with a screw driver gently pry up on both sides to get the 'cover' off. The cover retains a set of brushes and 2 small springs. Once you get the cover off you will see a long strip of copper colored material. This is the culprit. It attaches to a brass colored terminal. Below this strip is a longer strip of metal covered in a black insulating rubber type material...this insulates it from the copper strip.
Push up on the copper strip with a small screw driver it's very thin and will bend upwards easily. You will see the black insulated strip below it. Break off the copper strip where it meets the brass terminal it's only attached at that end. Now with the copper strip taken off scrape off some of the insulation with a sharp knife on the remaining metal strip.
What we are going to do is bend the brass terminal (where the copper was attached) against the metal strip that has had it's insulation (about 1/4 inch on the end) taken off. The brass terminal does not have to be completely flat against the metal strip. Now solder (with a soldering iron unless your good with a small soldering torch and some flux cored solder)the brass terminal and the metal strip together. Test your soldering job with a small screw driver (push up on it to make sure it doesn't come apart).
Then put the motor back together:
Straighten the tabs in the back of the brush holders (square box thingees). Pull the commutator from the motor (it comes right out, the magnets in the motor body hold them in). Install the commutator on the cap/brush holder assembly then while holding the commutator in place install the brushes (brushes go with the 'angled' sides away from the motor body),then the springs and bend the little tabs back to hold the springs and brushes in place. Now while holding everything together insert the entire thing back in the body (the magnets will try to pull the commutator off the brush holders so hold it tight). Once everything is in, tap the cap back on. Bend the tabs on the motor back in place to hold the cap. Go to your car plug the motor in and test (by installing the window button and going up then down). If it works then install the motor back in the car and enjoy.
The picture shows the components of the motor (for the exception of the 2 small brush springs). It does not show the copper strip that i removed...only the brass terminal soldered to the metal strip that was below the copper circuit breaker.
I have not had any problems at all with this 'fix'. Remember you are bypassing a circuit breaker so do this at your own risk. As long as you don't leave your finger on the 'up' button for extended periods you won't have a problem with the motor overheating.
