900 Watt Alpine sytem install w/tweeters
03-16-2009, 01:21 PM
#1
900 Watt Alpine sytem install w/tweeters Some dillweed on this site doubts my skills. I finally installed my system!
Except for some minor cleanup (wire loom and tie strap/mounts), It is complete. I rigged up a connector in the back of my Pioneer for an ipod input and it charges. No ground noise/ loops what so ever. I also hard wired my radar detector and installed my tweeters flush mount.
Yes. My hair moves when it hits. I get a great massage. This is plenty.
I will post more picks later tonight when I get home.
Here is my setup:
Front Door: Alpine components Alpine SPR-17S 110wRMS
Sail Panel: Alpine SPR-17C 2-way 100wRMS
Sub:
Subthump 10" Driver side cubby
Alpine SWR-1042D Dual 4Ohm 500wRMS
AMP RACK:
Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp 500w RMS @ 2 Ohm load
Alpine MRP-F600 4 channel 100wx4 RMS
Capacitor- TKO Audio BH-CAP54D 1.5 Farad
PICS:
Except for some minor cleanup (wire loom and tie strap/mounts), It is complete. I rigged up a connector in the back of my Pioneer for an ipod input and it charges. No ground noise/ loops what so ever. I also hard wired my radar detector and installed my tweeters flush mount.
Yes. My hair moves when it hits. I get a great massage. This is plenty.
I will post more picks later tonight when I get home.
Here is my setup:
Front Door: Alpine components Alpine SPR-17S 110wRMS
Sail Panel: Alpine SPR-17C 2-way 100wRMS
Sub:
Subthump 10" Driver side cubby
Alpine SWR-1042D Dual 4Ohm 500wRMS
AMP RACK:
Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp 500w RMS @ 2 Ohm load
Alpine MRP-F600 4 channel 100wx4 RMS
Capacitor- TKO Audio BH-CAP54D 1.5 Farad
PICS:
Last edited by Blackfly; 03-17-2009 at 07:23 PM.
03-16-2009, 10:06 PM
#3
This is actually my 5th build. This is my first for the SS.
I have built an Isobaric sub enclosure back when I had a Ford Ranger extended cab. that was a bad *** little box. I needed the extra space in that little truck and the Isobaric was the best fit for two 12's.
I left my camera at work so I will post up the pics by lunch tomorrow.
I have built an Isobaric sub enclosure back when I had a Ford Ranger extended cab. that was a bad *** little box. I needed the extra space in that little truck and the Isobaric was the best fit for two 12's.
I left my camera at work so I will post up the pics by lunch tomorrow.
03-17-2009, 08:03 AM
#6
I made it myself. I have built 2 others for friends.
The one drawback about an amprack mounted to rear area like mine is if the driver side tail lamps ever need to be replaced it's gonna be a bitch.
I suggest buying a set of 15 ft RCA's (for each output), some couplers for each run of RCA's and an additional 5ft of RCA's (for each output). This way you can simply disconnect your RCA's from the trunk area rather than pull the head unit out and disconnect from there.
My RCA runs are so tight I will need to move the head unit out in order for their to be enough room to push the amp rack away from the back panel.
On the passenger side cubby I placed a wire block and ran all speaker/remote wire there for quick disconnect. This is so I don't have to mess around with disconnecting the wires at the amps.
The one drawback about an amprack mounted to rear area like mine is if the driver side tail lamps ever need to be replaced it's gonna be a bitch.
I suggest buying a set of 15 ft RCA's (for each output), some couplers for each run of RCA's and an additional 5ft of RCA's (for each output). This way you can simply disconnect your RCA's from the trunk area rather than pull the head unit out and disconnect from there.
My RCA runs are so tight I will need to move the head unit out in order for their to be enough room to push the amp rack away from the back panel.
On the passenger side cubby I placed a wire block and ran all speaker/remote wire there for quick disconnect. This is so I don't have to mess around with disconnecting the wires at the amps.
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03-18-2009, 02:55 AM
#11
Launching!
I made it myself. I have built 2 others for friends.
The one drawback about an amprack mounted to rear area like mine is if the driver side tail lamps ever need to be replaced it's gonna be a bitch.
I suggest buying a set of 15 ft RCA's (for each output), some couplers for each run of RCA's and an additional 5ft of RCA's (for each output). This way you can simply disconnect your RCA's from the trunk area rather than pull the head unit out and disconnect from there.
My RCA runs are so tight I will need to move the head unit out in order for their to be enough room to push the amp rack away from the back panel.
On the passenger side cubby I placed a wire block and ran all speaker/remote wire there for quick disconnect. This is so I don't have to mess around with disconnecting the wires at the amps.
The one drawback about an amprack mounted to rear area like mine is if the driver side tail lamps ever need to be replaced it's gonna be a bitch.
I suggest buying a set of 15 ft RCA's (for each output), some couplers for each run of RCA's and an additional 5ft of RCA's (for each output). This way you can simply disconnect your RCA's from the trunk area rather than pull the head unit out and disconnect from there.
My RCA runs are so tight I will need to move the head unit out in order for their to be enough room to push the amp rack away from the back panel.
On the passenger side cubby I placed a wire block and ran all speaker/remote wire there for quick disconnect. This is so I don't have to mess around with disconnecting the wires at the amps.
