DIY box build v2
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DIY box build v2
Enclosure ~ 6.0cuft net tuned to 32Hz , 77.5sq in port area .
Sub ~ Fi CarAudio BTL 18" d2 , fully optioned .
Bought (2) 3/4" MDF 4' x 8' sheet's for $45.00 . Started ripping my sheet's with a circular saw yesterday morning . I use a 8' straight edge clamped on as a guide . It didn't take me that long and the weather was great so I started assembling .
Tools I use is clamp's the length of box I am building , 90 degree corner clamp's , Woodglue , 1 5/8" length #6 coarse thread drywall screw's , drill fixture with a end to make the screw head sit in flush , hand block sander . And then your normal measuring devices .. speed square , tape measure , pencil etc .
Main powertool's I use is a circular saw to rip the MDF sheet's , Drill to apply the screw's and a jigsaw to cutout the sub hole . I usually have plenty of MDF left to use as a workbench sitting on wooden saw horse's I also made .
Started with the Bottom and Back peice's , dryfitted .
Removed the Back peice but left the 90 degree corner clamps as a guide .
Then layed in a ample amount of woodglue . I like to lay down some plastic on the floor so that stuff does not get all over . Once the glue was laid in I set the Back peice in the 90 degree corner clamp's and putt on the big clamp's . I let it set a little bit but not to long where the glue is really setting . Then i start predrilling my holes and then finally applying the screw's .
Next peice was the Left Side , same step's as before . Dryfitted / glued / clamped / screwed .
Right Side
I let it set overnight and the next day I marked out where my Port peice was going to go . On the bottom I also marked it the same .
5" internal width port x 15.5" internal height = 77.5 sq in .
Next I sanded the Front peice that make's up some of the port . Kind of rounded the edge . I plan to do this to all side's of the port opening .
Then I put in the Front peice for good .
I am going to let it set overnight , this is as far as I went .
Sub ~ Fi CarAudio BTL 18" d2 , fully optioned .
Bought (2) 3/4" MDF 4' x 8' sheet's for $45.00 . Started ripping my sheet's with a circular saw yesterday morning . I use a 8' straight edge clamped on as a guide . It didn't take me that long and the weather was great so I started assembling .
Tools I use is clamp's the length of box I am building , 90 degree corner clamp's , Woodglue , 1 5/8" length #6 coarse thread drywall screw's , drill fixture with a end to make the screw head sit in flush , hand block sander . And then your normal measuring devices .. speed square , tape measure , pencil etc .
Main powertool's I use is a circular saw to rip the MDF sheet's , Drill to apply the screw's and a jigsaw to cutout the sub hole . I usually have plenty of MDF left to use as a workbench sitting on wooden saw horse's I also made .
Started with the Bottom and Back peice's , dryfitted .
Removed the Back peice but left the 90 degree corner clamps as a guide .
Then layed in a ample amount of woodglue . I like to lay down some plastic on the floor so that stuff does not get all over . Once the glue was laid in I set the Back peice in the 90 degree corner clamp's and putt on the big clamp's . I let it set a little bit but not to long where the glue is really setting . Then i start predrilling my holes and then finally applying the screw's .
Next peice was the Left Side , same step's as before . Dryfitted / glued / clamped / screwed .
Right Side
I let it set overnight and the next day I marked out where my Port peice was going to go . On the bottom I also marked it the same .
5" internal width port x 15.5" internal height = 77.5 sq in .
Next I sanded the Front peice that make's up some of the port . Kind of rounded the edge . I plan to do this to all side's of the port opening .
Then I put in the Front peice for good .
I am going to let it set overnight , this is as far as I went .
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Started today by marking out all my 45's for the corner's . Tried to make a stand for the circular saw to cut them but I can not hold the thing steady , run the peice's through without them kicking back and hold the trigger at the same time lol.
I finally sourced someone with a table saw that would be willing to help me out and it was cake after that .
Dryfitted to check how they sit , looked good but I still needed to cut them to height , chisel the glue off the floor of the box for them to sit flush .
Also got around to cutting the port board to length and rounded the inside edge smooth .
After cutting and scraping dried woodglue I put the box on it's side and layed in some glue where I had scraped off to make sure the box is sealed and then glued 2 of the 45's in.
Started sanding the port some , final sanding will commence later .
I finally sourced someone with a table saw that would be willing to help me out and it was cake after that .
Dryfitted to check how they sit , looked good but I still needed to cut them to height , chisel the glue off the floor of the box for them to sit flush .
Also got around to cutting the port board to length and rounded the inside edge smooth .
After cutting and scraping dried woodglue I put the box on it's side and layed in some glue where I had scraped off to make sure the box is sealed and then glued 2 of the 45's in.
Started sanding the port some , final sanding will commence later .
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It's going in a '98 Acura Integra .
While they do kind of help support the wall's , it offer's no support to the middle . The idea is to rid the enclosure of any 90 degree corner's . Every turn will be 45 degree's beside's the port board , but I rounded the flat edge . More less for directional airflow .
The perfect sub box would be a round one with no corner's .
Some go with flared slot port , with kerf's cut and the MDF bent into a round shape and fiberglassed for strength . My next box will definately incorporate that technique but it makes the design more complex and for a given space the box would need to be even larger.
This box is about 8 cuft gross so while it is not small , it would just be a port compared to what's out there . I could have went alot bigger but I am putting more power than recommended for this sub so I am building more around the minimal reccomend internal volume for sub control.
While they do kind of help support the wall's , it offer's no support to the middle . The idea is to rid the enclosure of any 90 degree corner's . Every turn will be 45 degree's beside's the port board , but I rounded the flat edge . More less for directional airflow .
The perfect sub box would be a round one with no corner's .
Some go with flared slot port , with kerf's cut and the MDF bent into a round shape and fiberglassed for strength . My next box will definately incorporate that technique but it makes the design more complex and for a given space the box would need to be even larger.
This box is about 8 cuft gross so while it is not small , it would just be a port compared to what's out there . I could have went alot bigger but I am putting more power than recommended for this sub so I am building more around the minimal reccomend internal volume for sub control.