How many amps can stock alternator handle?
06-29-2009, 02:27 PM
#1
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How many amps can stock alternator handle? I've got a mtx 6500D amp that I want to put in my car and was wondering if the stock alternator will be able to handle the 75 amps the 6500D will demand?
06-29-2009, 03:04 PM
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It will be ok with 75amps. Not to say your alt wont go out next week... since they can die at any given time. I have ran more amps than that in some of my previous cars. Getting a Yellow top to go with it wouldnt hurt, it might help dimming headlights and such.
06-29-2009, 03:28 PM
#4
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Always better to upgrade the alternator rather than the battery if you want to cure dimming issues... OP, I think you will get dimming, but it shouldn't be so much that you HAVE to upgrade your alt.
06-29-2009, 04:55 PM
#6
You should be fine as long as you don't crank the system up a lot with the engine shut off.
FYI, I still can make my light dim with my 200Amp alt, when I really crank up the AC/DC with 3400watts rms of power!
I probably need to upgrade to a 300amp alt in my car.
FYI, I still can make my light dim with my 200Amp alt, when I really crank up the AC/DC with 3400watts rms of power!
I probably need to upgrade to a 300amp alt in my car.
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06-30-2009, 02:57 PM
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How efficient the amps are play a big part also. I had originally done the big 3, yellowtop, and a 200 amp alternator. Had issues with it due to my underdrive pulley at idle. Guy stated it would work fine. 2 alternators later and him ripping me off I went back to the stock alternator and no issues.
I'm at 1200 watts with a 210 amp fuse rating. No dimming issues at all.
I'm at 1200 watts with a 210 amp fuse rating. No dimming issues at all.
07-01-2009, 04:34 PM
#9
I have HEAVY dimming with a 220 amp alternator, 2/0 big 3, 2/0 power and ground wire, red top and a PPI a1200 (1200w @ ~60% efficient, class AB) and a PPI a404.2 (400w @ about 60% efficient, class AB)
It all depends on amp efficiency. With that tiny amp, upgrade the big 3 wiring and choose a good ground and you should be golden with that setup.
It all depends on amp efficiency. With that tiny amp, upgrade the big 3 wiring and choose a good ground and you should be golden with that setup.
07-02-2009, 10:17 AM
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good deal. preciate all the informative input. The big3 will definately be done during the install. Any suggestions for a good sub that will handle the 600 or so RMS watts? Looking for a 12" that will perform in a stealth box. Budget would be around $150 or so.
07-02-2009, 04:16 PM
#12
Dayton Titanic MK3 would be a great choice. Get them on partsexpress.com
07-02-2009, 07:00 PM
#13
You will be fine.
I have two amps pulling a total of 135A and all i have is an optima Redtop with NO cap.
One MRP-F550, 30A x 2
One MRP-M850, 25A x 3
Alpine amps are efficent IMO.
I can crank it and be heard from blocks away (high school years) and the lights do not dim. Lots of people do not believe me, but really they do not dim!
I have two amps pulling a total of 135A and all i have is an optima Redtop with NO cap.
One MRP-F550, 30A x 2
One MRP-M850, 25A x 3
Alpine amps are efficent IMO.
I can crank it and be heard from blocks away (high school years) and the lights do not dim. Lots of people do not believe me, but really they do not dim!
