Keep blowing a fuse, no turn signals/back up lights
#1
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Keep blowing a fuse, no turn signals/back up lights
So I bought a 2000 WS6 from a good friend of mine. I have known the car for years, but recently bought it. I noticed the reverse lights, and the turn signals do not work. The fuse was blown on the interior fuse block, so I replaced it. Tried the left signal it blew immediatly. Replaced it with a new fuse, tried the reverse lights first, they worked. Then I tried the right signal. It worked fine. As soon as I flipped the left signal it blew again. So, something with the left signal is causing the fuse to blow.
However, my buddy said years back he installed a high beam bulb, in the low beam socket (no clue why, he must have been a retard). Anyways he said the problem started then.
Does anyone have any idea where the problem could be? Or have any advice?
I'd appreciate it.
However, my buddy said years back he installed a high beam bulb, in the low beam socket (no clue why, he must have been a retard). Anyways he said the problem started then.
Does anyone have any idea where the problem could be? Or have any advice?
I'd appreciate it.
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Your friend didn't try to disable the daytime running lights did he? If so, have a look at the connections at the DRL module behind the radio. The light blue with white wire is the left T/S input from the switch and the plain light blue wire is the output to the front signals.
Another common problem is corroded front sockets. Although they usually just stop working, it is possible to end up with a short between the T/S wire (light blue again) and ground.
If you don't find a problem in those areas, you can easily determine if front or rear is the problem by unplugging the DRL module. If fuses still blow then the problem is either in the T/S switch or somewhere in the rear T/S wiring. If the fuses stop blowing then the problem is either the DRL module or the wiring between it and the front T/S lamp.
Another common problem is corroded front sockets. Although they usually just stop working, it is possible to end up with a short between the T/S wire (light blue again) and ground.
If you don't find a problem in those areas, you can easily determine if front or rear is the problem by unplugging the DRL module. If fuses still blow then the problem is either in the T/S switch or somewhere in the rear T/S wiring. If the fuses stop blowing then the problem is either the DRL module or the wiring between it and the front T/S lamp.
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same issuses on 98 ss blowing number 2 fuse 20 amp turn b/u check the rev switch on t56 trans and internal short. as soon as you put in rev it popped, put a $12 new switch in works perfect.
switch is on the right side of t56
1st quick FREE test, unplug the trans rev switch and put a jumper wire pig tail across 2 pins make sure its in good, paper clip will work, now replace the number 2 fuse, turn the key to run position the rev lights should stay on. also then check turn signals should work. if fuse blows you have issue with turn signal branch or chaffed wire. if a fairly simple circuit.
how to test your old one just pull switch and use conitunity tester touch one pin in switch to threads and push in the ball bearing to act like its in rev if your tester beeps its shorted, try each pin to ground (threads) one at a time.
OR
leave switch installed in trans with shifter in rev (with engine off) and unplug the rev switch. use your meter set to continuity. (the meter beeps when you touch the tester ends together) put one tester lead to trans case anywhere clean spot and the other to each pin on switch(not wire harnes) one at a time if it beeps switch is bad.
the switch is isolated form ground and when goes bad it shorts out turn signal and rev lights
switch is on the right side of t56
1st quick FREE test, unplug the trans rev switch and put a jumper wire pig tail across 2 pins make sure its in good, paper clip will work, now replace the number 2 fuse, turn the key to run position the rev lights should stay on. also then check turn signals should work. if fuse blows you have issue with turn signal branch or chaffed wire. if a fairly simple circuit.
how to test your old one just pull switch and use conitunity tester touch one pin in switch to threads and push in the ball bearing to act like its in rev if your tester beeps its shorted, try each pin to ground (threads) one at a time.
OR
leave switch installed in trans with shifter in rev (with engine off) and unplug the rev switch. use your meter set to continuity. (the meter beeps when you touch the tester ends together) put one tester lead to trans case anywhere clean spot and the other to each pin on switch(not wire harnes) one at a time if it beeps switch is bad.
the switch is isolated form ground and when goes bad it shorts out turn signal and rev lights
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#8
I second that reverse light switch. Had the same issue, there were multiple issues, front turn signal sockets had gotten wet and needed replacement but still didn't work after, fuses kept blowing. Two separate problems really, I replaced the bulbs with LED bulbs when I replaced the sockets and they didn't work, and the reverse switch was what kept blowing the Turn/BU fuse. Replaced the bulbs and the turn signals worked, replaced the switch (took all of 15 minutes to jack up the car and remove/replace the switch) and everything is set now. At $12.99 from Advance Auto As far as how to test for it, I just put in a fresh fuse, turned ignition on without starting the car, put it in reverse, and listened to the fuse pop. Did that 3 times just to be sure. After the switch, all working well.
Last edited by davedsone; 01-03-2016 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Answer already given. Expanded on troubleshooting