Shutting Headlights Off While Car Is Running?
#3
ok cause someone said the easier way was to just click the e brake up one notch and that should shut them off, idk if i feel like rippin the dash apart lol
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the ebrake thing only works when you first start the car, if you start it and then pull the ebrake the lights will stay on, atleast on mine they did. The headlight mod is easy. Ive had it done for years. It takes about 15 minutes.
you dont have to rip the dash apart, just carefully pop the center up and you can reach the "switch".
you dont have to rip the dash apart, just carefully pop the center up and you can reach the "switch".
#11
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You don't have to do either...it's a LOT easier to pop the bezel around the stereo off (it comes out very easily), then pull the stereo out (also VERY easy) then there's a black box right behind the stereo. If you solder 2 pins together on that box, it's the same effect as having the e-brake on, BUT the light won't be red on your dash.
This link has a good writeup on what to do. http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
This link has a good writeup on what to do. http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
#12
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How is opening that box and soldering easier than crimping a scotchlock? really? That is definitely more work than removing the a pillar cover, lifting the dash pad slightly, and crimping a scotchlock.
Here is the image from the link I posed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
Just be gentle lifting the dash pad, they can get brittle with age. I've lifted mine to hide a GPS antenna under there and didn't have an issue.
Here is the image from the link I posed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
Just be gentle lifting the dash pad, they can get brittle with age. I've lifted mine to hide a GPS antenna under there and didn't have an issue.
#13
How is opening that box and soldering easier than crimping a scotchlock? really? That is definitely more work than removing the a pillar cover, lifting the dash pad slightly, and crimping a scotchlock.
Here is the image from the link I posed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
Just be gentle lifting the dash pad, they can get brittle with age. I've lifted mine to hide a GPS antenna under there and didn't have an issue.
Here is the image from the link I posed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
Just be gentle lifting the dash pad, they can get brittle with age. I've lifted mine to hide a GPS antenna under there and didn't have an issue.
#14
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
How is opening that box and soldering easier than crimping a scotchlock? really? That is definitely more work than removing the a pillar cover, lifting the dash pad slightly, and crimping a scotchlock.
Here is the image from the link I posed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
Just be gentle lifting the dash pad, they can get brittle with age. I've lifted mine to hide a GPS antenna under there and didn't have an issue.
Here is the image from the link I posed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
Just be gentle lifting the dash pad, they can get brittle with age. I've lifted mine to hide a GPS antenna under there and didn't have an issue.
"Opening" that box up, takes all of a few seconds with a small screwdriver as well.
The other thing you're overlooking too, crimping a scotchlock, is making the car think it's always daytime, so now the marker lights are always lit on the high filament (DRL's are always on) and not the low filament.
I don't know about your car, but when I went to change the bulbs in mine and saw the burn marks on the stock sockets from the stock bulbs always having the high filaments lit when the DRL's were still enabled, that was enough for me to warrant looking up the 45 second fix that doesn't even require any additional solder, it just requires you to touch the 2 pins momentarily with the iron and they flow together on their own.
FAR less disassembly than removing both pillars and the dash pad, FAR less risk of breaking clips that hold the pillars and dash pad installed (the ones holding the stereo bezel are actually designed to be removed countless times without damage/wear) and it corrects the overheating issue with the front lights.
We both live in MA, bring your car over, and I'll have it done for you before you realize I have even gotten started...unless the stereo bezel in a Firebird is held in WAY differently than a Camaro, I can't see the procedure, risk, or time spent, being any different at all...and again, maybe the firebirds don't have the issue with DRL's burning their sockets like Camaro's do...so maybe thats why it never bothered you. (for what it's worth, Silverado and Sierra DRL's burn their light sockets too)...not really sure of how many GM cars do that, but I'd expect it to be all of them that have the ambers lit bright for DRL's.
Last edited by Mike454SS; 08-17-2009 at 11:37 PM.
#18
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iTrader: (4)
...The other thing you're overlooking too, crimping a scotchlock, is making the car think it's always daytime, so now the marker lights are always lit on the high filament (DRL's are always on) and not the low filament.
I don't know about your car, but when I went to change the bulbs in mine and saw the burn marks on the stock sockets from the stock bulbs always having the high filaments lit when the DRL's were still enabled, that was enough for me to warrant looking up the 45 second fix that doesn't even require any additional solder, it just requires you to touch the 2 pins momentarily with the iron and they flow together on their own.
I don't know about your car, but when I went to change the bulbs in mine and saw the burn marks on the stock sockets from the stock bulbs always having the high filaments lit when the DRL's were still enabled, that was enough for me to warrant looking up the 45 second fix that doesn't even require any additional solder, it just requires you to touch the 2 pins momentarily with the iron and they flow together on their own.
Only Canadian Firebirds have automatic headlights. Since GM saw fit to disable automatic headlights on US Firebirds by shorting the two sensor wires together, it seems like a reasonable way to do it on a Camaro.
#19
Copy & Paste Moderator
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
Because if you can solder, it takes 45 seconds
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
The other thing you're overlooking too, crimping a scotchlock, is making the car think it's always daytime, so now the marker lights are always lit on the high filament (DRL's are always on) and not the low filament.
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
I don't know about your car, but when I went to change the bulbs in mine and saw the burn marks on the stock sockets from the stock bulbs always having the high filaments lit when the DRL's were still enabled, that was enough for me to warrant looking up the 45 second fix that doesn't even require any additional solder, it just requires you to touch the 2 pins momentarily with the iron and they flow together on their own.
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
FAR less disassembly than removing both pillars and the dash pad, FAR less risk of breaking clips that hold the pillars and dash pad installed (the ones holding the stereo bezel are actually designed to be removed countless times without damage/wear) and it corrects the overheating issue with the front lights.
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
We both live in MA, bring your car over, and I'll have it done for you before you realize I have even gotten started
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
...unless the stereo bezel in a Firebird is held in WAY differently than a Camaro
Originally Posted by Mike454SS
, I can't see the procedure, risk, or time spent, being any different at all...and again, maybe the firebirds don't have the issue with DRL's burning their sockets like Camaro's do...so maybe thats why it never bothered you. (for what it's worth, Silverado and Sierra DRL's burn their light sockets too)...not really sure of how many GM cars do that, but I'd expect it to be all of them that have the ambers lit bright for DRL's.
Last edited by VIP1; 08-18-2009 at 11:30 PM.
#20
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iTrader: (4)
...The bright filament is lit when the headlight switch is in the "off" position. When you use your turn signals, the bright filament flashes. When the headlight switch is in the "parking lights" or "on" position, the DRL flips to use the dim filament. The turn signal still flashes the bright filament.