Blower Motor Resistor?
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Blower Motor Resistor?
I'm wondering if anyone knows where the blower motor resistor is located, i have a feeling that this is what my problem is. My Blower motor does not come on, but once in a great while it will work. I do not have power to the blower motor either. Any suggestions would be a great help!
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http://infotrac.galegroup.com/itweb/northwater?db=CHLL
can't find it quickly myself, but maybe the link will help you. It's the link to the chilton's library
password: northern
can't find it quickly myself, but maybe the link will help you. It's the link to the chilton's library
password: northern
#4
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The blower resistor is in the heater housing behind the right side of the dash, forward and left of where the temperature control cable attaches.
But your problem probably isn't the blower resistor. The resistor only affects the lower fan speeds. If you turn the switch to high, the resistor isn't part of the circuit so it wouldn't affect fan operation.
I suspect that the blower relay is a more likely source of the problem. A sticking relay could cause intermittent operation. The blower relay is under the dash attached to the bracket on the right side above the center tunnel.
But your problem probably isn't the blower resistor. The resistor only affects the lower fan speeds. If you turn the switch to high, the resistor isn't part of the circuit so it wouldn't affect fan operation.
I suspect that the blower relay is a more likely source of the problem. A sticking relay could cause intermittent operation. The blower relay is under the dash attached to the bracket on the right side above the center tunnel.
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The blower resistor is in the heater housing behind the right side of the dash, forward and left of where the temperature control cable attaches.
But your problem probably isn't the blower resistor. The resistor only affects the lower fan speeds. If you turn the switch to high, the resistor isn't part of the circuit so it wouldn't affect fan operation.
I suspect that the blower relay is a more likely source of the problem. A sticking relay could cause intermittent operation. The blower relay is under the dash attached to the bracket on the right side above the center tunnel.
But your problem probably isn't the blower resistor. The resistor only affects the lower fan speeds. If you turn the switch to high, the resistor isn't part of the circuit so it wouldn't affect fan operation.
I suspect that the blower relay is a more likely source of the problem. A sticking relay could cause intermittent operation. The blower relay is under the dash attached to the bracket on the right side above the center tunnel.
looked on shbox.com and the picture was for a camaro.
i'm stumped......and cold. the high is supposed to be 47* tommorow
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um, well scratch that. bought a brand new relay and nothing has changed. I did notice that on shbox.com it was described as the HIGH blower relay. which has me thinking its only for HIGH operation. I did jump the two large gauge wires at the relay and the blower motor remained on high no matter what setting it was on. I would try to test the control panel but i'm not sure which wires i need to be looking for power at.......any ideas?
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Okay, time to get the tester out - you can use either a test light or a multimeter.
There should be five wires at the relay: red, orange, dark blue, purple, and black. The red wire should show power at all times (battery source). The black wire should be ground. The orange wire should show power when the ignition switch is on and the fan switch is on high. The dark blue wire should show different voltages depending on the fan switch position (if using a test light, the light should start dim and get brighter as you switch to higher fan speeds). The purple wire goes to the fan motor - we know it's okay because you said the fan works when you jump the relay.
Now, depending on what results you get from those tests, we can determine if the switch, resistor, or wiring is the problem (or at least which one is the next to investigate).
There should be five wires at the relay: red, orange, dark blue, purple, and black. The red wire should show power at all times (battery source). The black wire should be ground. The orange wire should show power when the ignition switch is on and the fan switch is on high. The dark blue wire should show different voltages depending on the fan switch position (if using a test light, the light should start dim and get brighter as you switch to higher fan speeds). The purple wire goes to the fan motor - we know it's okay because you said the fan works when you jump the relay.
Now, depending on what results you get from those tests, we can determine if the switch, resistor, or wiring is the problem (or at least which one is the next to investigate).
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Okay, time to get the tester out - you can use either a test light or a multimeter.
There should be five wires at the relay: red, orange, dark blue, purple, and black. The red wire should show power at all times (battery source). The black wire should be ground. The orange wire should show power when the ignition switch is on and the fan switch is on high. The dark blue wire should show different voltages depending on the fan switch position (if using a test light, the light should start dim and get brighter as you switch to higher fan speeds). The purple wire goes to the fan motor - we know it's okay because you said the fan works when you jump the relay.
Now, depending on what results you get from those tests, we can determine if the switch, resistor, or wiring is the problem (or at least which one is the next to investigate).
There should be five wires at the relay: red, orange, dark blue, purple, and black. The red wire should show power at all times (battery source). The black wire should be ground. The orange wire should show power when the ignition switch is on and the fan switch is on high. The dark blue wire should show different voltages depending on the fan switch position (if using a test light, the light should start dim and get brighter as you switch to higher fan speeds). The purple wire goes to the fan motor - we know it's okay because you said the fan works when you jump the relay.
Now, depending on what results you get from those tests, we can determine if the switch, resistor, or wiring is the problem (or at least which one is the next to investigate).
now my results
fuse is good
black- good ground
red- constant
purple- fine obviously
orange-no power when key is on and blower is on high
blue-no power at all at different fan settings
now in the midst of typing this i figured i would check to see if i had power to the fuse, went out and checked it and realized the blower motor was working properly. I started playing with eyerything and realized the fuse was not getting situated correctly because on one side the prongs were spread apart. then i remembered i used the "wrap a wire around the fuse" method on that exact fuse. thats the last time i do that.
I dont know your real name but thank you ALOT for all your help WhiteBird00. We need more people like you on this site that offer help as much as you did without name calling
#13
Hoping to revive an old thread...
I have a 98 z28. All of the fan settings work except the high setting. I've done some reading and have gotten different information. Initially I thought it was the blower motor resistor but have since read that the resistor doesn't have any function when the fan is on high. I've read something about a relay for the fan on high setting. Can anyone provide any input?
Much thanks!
I have a 98 z28. All of the fan settings work except the high setting. I've done some reading and have gotten different information. Initially I thought it was the blower motor resistor but have since read that the resistor doesn't have any function when the fan is on high. I've read something about a relay for the fan on high setting. Can anyone provide any input?
Much thanks!
#14
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The HVAC fan has four speeds. The switch gets power through the #6 HVAC fuse (20A) in the fuse panel on the left end of the dash. The first three settings pass power through the blower resistor using different combinations of resistors to reduce output voltage to lower the fan speed. The fourth setting bypasses the blower resistor to provide full voltage to the blower motor.
There is a blower motor relay that switches power source when high speed is selected. For the first three speeds, the relay is at rest and the blower motor gets power via the HVAC switch. When high speed is selected, the relay trips and power is supplied from the battery through the I/P-1 fuse in junction block 2 under the hood. This is a 40A fuse that provides power to a number of other circuits so it is unlikely to cause your problem (because you'd have other things not working as well) but it can't hurt to check it anyway.
The most common cause of all speeds working except high speed is that blower relay. When it fails, it will pass power for the three lower speeds but not trip to provide power in high speed. The GM part number is 12177233 (superseded from original number 12193601). The relay is located under the dash on the right side of the center console as shown in earlier posts.
There is a blower motor relay that switches power source when high speed is selected. For the first three speeds, the relay is at rest and the blower motor gets power via the HVAC switch. When high speed is selected, the relay trips and power is supplied from the battery through the I/P-1 fuse in junction block 2 under the hood. This is a 40A fuse that provides power to a number of other circuits so it is unlikely to cause your problem (because you'd have other things not working as well) but it can't hurt to check it anyway.
The most common cause of all speeds working except high speed is that blower relay. When it fails, it will pass power for the three lower speeds but not trip to provide power in high speed. The GM part number is 12177233 (superseded from original number 12193601). The relay is located under the dash on the right side of the center console as shown in earlier posts.
#17
Okay, time to get the tester out - you can use either a test light or a multimeter.
There should be five wires at the relay: red, orange, dark blue, purple, and black. The red wire should show power at all times (battery source). The black wire should be ground. The orange wire should show power when the ignition switch is on and the fan switch is on high. The dark blue wire should show different voltages depending on the fan switch position (if using a test light, the light should start dim and get brighter as you switch to higher fan speeds). The purple wire goes to the fan motor - we know it's okay because you said the fan works when you jump the relay.
Now, depending on what results you get from those tests, we can determine if the switch, resistor, or wiring is the problem (or at least which one is the next to investigate).
There should be five wires at the relay: red, orange, dark blue, purple, and black. The red wire should show power at all times (battery source). The black wire should be ground. The orange wire should show power when the ignition switch is on and the fan switch is on high. The dark blue wire should show different voltages depending on the fan switch position (if using a test light, the light should start dim and get brighter as you switch to higher fan speeds). The purple wire goes to the fan motor - we know it's okay because you said the fan works when you jump the relay.
Now, depending on what results you get from those tests, we can determine if the switch, resistor, or wiring is the problem (or at least which one is the next to investigate).
#18
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That being said, please describe the symptoms you're experiencing and we'll see if we can't help you figure it out.