mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

I recently installed a Kenwood KAC-8104D amplifier and a Kenwood KFC-W2511 sub in a stealth box. I wired everything up to the best of my ability, no splicing or jerry rigging AT ALL, and it worked awesome for about 20 minutes.

I used 4 gauge wire running to the amp for power and ground, and 8 gauge wire running to the speakers (some 12 gauge or so for the remote i stole from the power antenna wire). I am getting the signal from the passenger side sail panel using a line out converter to utilize rca's.

The amp stays on, but every time the bass is about to hit the red light cuts out for a split second and the speaker only puts out a tiny bit of vibration/bass. It's like it's on but quits every time it's suppose to do its job. Some type of protection mode problem I presume?

I re-ran and checked all of the wires and fuses, same problem. Nothing looks burnt or shorted.

The only thing I can think of is that the signal coming from the sail panels was too much and it fried the amp. The line out converter I have has little dials on it so I can turn down what it let through I guess, that still didn't correct the problem.

Is my amp fried? Please help me!!! This is the final phase of my car and I just want to be done spending money on it, for now

Thanks in advance for any help.

TZ2884

iTrader: (14)

Honestly it sounds like the sub might be blown. Do you have a meter? If so check impedance, it should read 4 ohms. If not, push in on the sub, does it feel extremely loose or tight? Do you smell voice coil?

Sh4Dy

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like a bad ground. Where did you ground the amp?

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

I do not have a meter, but I did smell something right before the sub quit pounding. It was the first time I had drove the car in a while, so I didnt think nothing of it. I had a problem with mice bringing a bunch of **** into my exhaust when it was in winter storage...

Will the amp go into protection to protect the sub, even after its blown? If I disconnect the speaker wires, the red light goes solid. So that actually makes sense. But if I disconnect the rca cables only (leaving in the speaker wires), the red light goes solid too.

That does make me feel like the amp is still fine, its just something with the input. You think its the output? After the amp sends the power to the sub, how would it get the return signal to put it into protection? In other words, how does it know somethings broke after it does its job?

Thanks for the help, I will go and push on the sub. Not really sure what I'm looking for.

I shaved down a little section right next to where the spare tire stuff goes and bolted it to the body. That all looks good???

i thought that sub and amp combo was perfectly matched, why would it blow the sub?

TZ2884

iTrader: (14)

90% chance the sub is blown. The voice coil of the sub is probably causing a short because it is burnt, the amp sees that short and trie to protect itself from burning up. The combo is fine really I love the 8104d and the new 8105d they both make good power at 2 and 4 ohm and they're very durable. Usually when a voice coil gets burnt its from the volume **** on the radio (sorry no offense). Most radios should be turned no further than 3/4's of the way up. It sucks that they make them this way but the output signal turns to a clipped signal after roughly that volume level. This sends square waves to the amp which amplifies the input signal its getting and causes lots of heat which burns up the sub. Good news though, those subs have a one year warranty, they give you a new replacement if you send it in.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

that makes sense, thanks SO much for your help man. I'll get my hands on a meter just so I can make sure and then I'll send that bad boy back in.

I really didn't have it all that loud, I'm not a huge bass guy (hence the one 10'' sub). I just need a little boom support and I'm not dealing with those crummy sail panel subs. Once it's replaced, I guess I'll try and be more careful. And if I start to smell something, TURN IT OFF.

TZ2884

iTrader: (14)

No problem man, I always hate to be the one to deliver bad news. If you need any more help just let me know.

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

still haven't found the problem. i had the speaker checked and it was fine.

I have a line out converter stealing the signal from my passenger sail panel sub. i replaced the sail panels with aftermarket speakers and spliced into the hatch speakers for the signal.

I have an altenator whine in the new passenger side sail speaker only. This is right where I run my power cord, so I figured it was just that so I took out the inline fuse and the whine is still there?

So I figured the line out converter was causing the problem, so I took that out. Still there?

Any of you think this is related to my amp/speaker problem from the op? I was thinking that the line out converter may have shorted something out in that general area and that is what is affecting my amp and the speaker that is sitting right there.

What do you all think?

mile_high51

iTrader: (5)

I originally had cheap rca cables. I am buying new ones anyway, could this possibly be the problem?

pentavolvo

highly doubt it

Sh4Dy

iTrader: (9)

You should be running your line converter/rca cables and power wire on opposite sides of the car. Edit:That whine you here is probably from the interference caused by the RCA wires touching the power wire.

Justademo

hey i have the 8104d amp too and I had mine hooked up for like a year and then all a sudden it started to "clip" off. I had it up higher than normal but the funny thing about it is that it was playing for a few songs and then cut off. I was wondering if you found out the problem yet? I've been working on mine and I'm about to give up and buy all new stuff but would hate to if I don't need too. Please let me know and I will do the same.