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sail panel speakers

Old 04-13-2010, 03:36 PM
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Default sail panel speakers

Can anyone tell me if these will work as a replacement speaker on the monsoon system using the factory amp?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...n=%20Flyer_10B
Old 04-14-2010, 07:37 AM
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You're kidding right?

Well, I suppose you could put those $10 mid-range speakers in the sail panels but they are not well suited to the application.

- The sail panels are designed for a sub and the Monsoon amp only provides low frequency signal there. These speakers will not handle that frequency range well.

- The factory subs in your Camaro are 2-ohm but these replacements are 4-ohm. Often you can get away with doubling the impedance because the replacements are more efficient to make up for the loss of power. But these speakers don't even have that going for them so you will lose about half of your output power.

- Even the Monsoon amp is capable of producing 40 watts RMS into the sail panel subs. That's all those speakers can take. Buy some extras for spares in case they blow apart when you crank up the volume.

Basically, if you want something cheap to fill the holes when you sell the car, these would do the job. But if you actually want to listen to them, check out the replacement speakers that Kee Audio sells.
Old 04-14-2010, 02:36 PM
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Default or these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Old 04-14-2010, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
You're kidding right?

Well, I suppose you could put those $10 mid-range speakers in the sail panels but they are not well suited to the application.

- The sail panels are designed for a sub and the Monsoon amp only provides low frequency signal there. These speakers will not handle that frequency range well.

- The factory subs in your Camaro are 2-ohm but these replacements are 4-ohm. Often you can get away with doubling the impedance because the replacements are more efficient to make up for the loss of power. But these speakers don't even have that going for them so you will lose about half of your output power.

- Even the Monsoon amp is capable of producing 40 watts RMS into the sail panel subs. That's all those speakers can take. Buy some extras for spares in case they blow apart when you crank up the volume.

Basically, if you want something cheap to fill the holes when you sell the car, these would do the job. But if you actually want to listen to them, check out the replacement speakers that Kee Audio sells.
Damn I wish you would have wrote back sooner my friend insisted that these would work fine and where an excellent
deal because they where on closeout well now at least I can give a review on them

Last edited by mtuggle86; 04-14-2010 at 02:44 PM.
Old 04-14-2010, 02:48 PM
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he also told me to us these as the hatch speakers any thoughts? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-212
Old 04-14-2010, 02:54 PM
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At least that one will work in place of the 4" full-range speaker already in the hatch area. Remember that the hatch speakers are for rear fill only and don't need to be very powerful. In fact, if the factory speakers still work at all there's no reason to replace them.
Old 04-14-2010, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
At least that one will work in place of the 4" full-range speaker already in the hatch area. Remember that the hatch speakers are for rear fill only and don't need to be very powerful. In fact, if the factory speakers still work at all there's no reason to replace them.
Well my car has no hatch speakers so they where needed so at least those will work But the 6.5 midbass speakers I ordered should I even try them out or should I just order a different set of speakers? Im very surprised that you where so down on the peerless midbass speakers. My buddy is pretty good with stereos Im surprised he made a mistake like that.
Old 04-14-2010, 03:30 PM
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best budget sail panel speakers seem to be the bazookas and audiopipes. Sail panel speakers when using factory wiring only play bass, that's why he said the full-range speaker was a bad choice
Old 04-14-2010, 03:31 PM
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Wait a minute... no hatch speakers? They were removed or the car didn't come with them? If the car didn't come with them then it's not a Monsoon system and everything I said about the sail panel speakers doesn't apply. The non-Monsoon system came with full range speakers in the doors and sail panels. Just about any decent full range or coaxial speaker can be used as a replacement for a non-Monsoon system.

I'm not against the Peerless speaker except that it's not a good match for the Monsoon sail panels.
Old 04-14-2010, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Wait a minute... no hatch speakers? They were removed or the car didn't come with them? If the car didn't come with them then it's not a Monsoon system and everything I said about the sail panel speakers doesn't apply. The non-Monsoon system came with full range speakers in the doors and sail panels. Just about any decent full range or coaxial speaker can be used as a replacement for a non-Monsoon system.

I'm not against the Peerless speaker except that it's not a good match for the Monsoon sail panels.
No its a monsoon system but when I bought my car some jackass had pulled the hatch and rear subs so now Im having to replace them.

I know you where not against the peerless like I said just surprised unless I misunderstood my friend said the peerless where mid bass and not full range speakers Im just surprised that slipped by him
Old 04-15-2010, 07:33 AM
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They're actually mid-range rather than mid-bass. They have a frequency range up to 6000 Hz (which is well above the highest note on a standard piano).
Old 04-16-2010, 11:57 AM
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Peerless makes great quality drivers - that mid-bass doesn't have quite the Xmax to produce a lot of bass, but if you're adding a sub then there is no reason why those would be a bad choice; they're probably quite clear and they look to be quite efficient (almost 90db efficiency, that's pretty dang good).

PE gets a lot of Peerless speakers on buy-out from the manufacturer; just because they're $10 speakers doesn't mean they're garbage. They could, at one point, have been significantly more expensive and, judging by the specs on that thing, I imagine it very well were.

The frequency range is a combination mid-bass/mid-range - it's one of those sort of in between speakers... I don't think they'd be a terrible choice if you're not looking for crazy bass output. I bet the midrange and vocals on that thing are really good though. But if you're looking for crazy bass output, you shouldn't be looking to ANY 6.5" speaker even the Tang Band 6.5" sub... for that you need to get a stealth box or trunk-mount sub.

edit: Oh, and that Dayton 4" speaker you posted, I have the 3-inch version of that speaker and they sound really good - the bass output is pretty good on them, but again, if you're looking for crazy bass output then I would simply suggest filling those holes with a good-quality mid-range/mid-bass driver and adding a dedicated subwoofer.

Last edited by pillagenburn; 04-16-2010 at 12:04 PM.
Old 04-16-2010, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pillagenburn
Peerless makes great quality drivers - that mid-bass doesn't have quite the Xmax to produce a lot of bass, but if you're adding a sub then there is no reason why those would be a bad choice; they're probably quite clear and they look to be quite efficient (almost 90db efficiency, that's pretty dang good).

PE gets a lot of Peerless speakers on buy-out from the manufacturer; just because they're $10 speakers doesn't mean they're garbage. They could, at one point, have been significantly more expensive and, judging by the specs on that thing, I imagine it very well were.

The frequency range is a combination mid-bass/mid-range - it's one of those sort of in between speakers... I don't think they'd be a terrible choice if you're not looking for crazy bass output. I bet the midrange and vocals on that thing are really good though. But if you're looking for crazy bass output, you shouldn't be looking to ANY 6.5" speaker even the Tang Band 6.5" sub... for that you need to get a stealth box or trunk-mount sub.
I installed the peerless speakers and yes they where very clear but they lacked the bass output of even the stock sub prob because there 4 ohm instead of 2 ohm?

Anyways like I said my cars subs have been blown for quite a while. Im just looking for a speaker that can match the stock subs in performance since I was happy with them when they worked. I ordered a set of these since they seemed to get nice reviews from GTO owners as a replacement for there stock subs. There DVC 4ohms per coil.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=85716194

Last edited by mtuggle86; 04-16-2010 at 01:04 PM.
Old 04-16-2010, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mtuggle86
I installed the peerless speakers and yes they where very clear but they lacked the bass output of even the stock sub prob because there 4 ohm instead of 2 ohm?

Anyways like I said my cars subs have been blown for quite a while. Im just looking for a speaker that can match the stock subs in performance since I was happy with them when they worked. I ordered a set of these since they seemed to get nice reviews from GTO owners as a replacement for there stock subs. There DVC 4ohms per coil.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=85716194
Then you likely need a dedicated sub... or perhaps buy the Tang Band 6.5" subwoofer... that might give you what you need. Those sail panels are really meant to have a mid-bass, not necessarily a dedicated subwoofer. I chose the Dayton RS-180 because it has the mid-range clarity that I wanted with enough low-end when pushed. I never thought of them as bass-heavy drivers... you MAY check out the Tang Band 6x9" subwoofer (yes, they make a subwoofer with those dimensions) and modify your hatch panels to fit those... that would be a pretty killer way to go, too.
Old 04-16-2010, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pillagenburn
Then you likely need a dedicated sub... or perhaps buy the Tang Band 6.5" subwoofer... that might give you what you need. Those sail panels are really meant to have a mid-bass, not necessarily a dedicated subwoofer. I chose the Dayton RS-180 because it has the mid-range clarity that I wanted with enough low-end when pushed. I never thought of them as bass-heavy drivers... you MAY check out the Tang Band 6x9" subwoofer (yes, they make a subwoofer with those dimensions) and modify your hatch panels to fit those... that would be a pretty killer way to go, too.
I ordered the goldwoods already I wanted to be able to wire them to 2ohms and they got great reviews from ls1gto.com guys. I figured I would try them out as long as they sound as good as stock Ill be happy with them plus there only 14 bucks so I figured why not.

Any thoughts On them? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=85716194
Old 04-16-2010, 04:55 PM
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for what they are, I've heard good things about Goldwood products in general. If you don't set your expectations way too high, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Though I will add to that statement that I've never, personally, used Goldwood products.... only read the reviews on them.
Old 04-20-2010, 02:19 AM
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I ordered a set of Audiopipe TS-VR6's off ebay for 49 bucks shipped. seemed like a good deal

Also Those Dayton nd105 4inch speakers I put in the hatch area really are some nice speakers for the money couldn't be happier with them.

Last edited by mtuggle86; 04-21-2010 at 12:49 PM.
Old 04-21-2010, 11:46 AM
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yep, you really get what you pay for with speakers... Goldwood is typically for those that want their speakers to produce *SOME* sort of sound... not for those seeking high quality.

You ended up paying more, though not a LOT more, and that's what a lot of speaker buying comes down to... spending enough, but not spending too much to get what you want.
Old 04-24-2010, 05:55 PM
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Yea but if you spend all that cash on quality speakers you need to upgrade the rest of the system because the Monsoon system isn't all that powerful to begin with.
Old 04-26-2010, 10:21 AM
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guys I installed the audiopipes and I was very disappointed with them they would fart with like every song with the bass turned down. I enclosed the area behind the speaker with greatstuff from homedepot. First I put a thin layer of the foam over all the sheet metal just to insulate it to reduce the tinny echo I was experiencing. I then built a cup around the speaker basically making a small enclosure but the bottom i left open but lined that entire lower area. the cutout toward the back of the car I left open BUT i reached as far back as I needed and enclosed than with foam and again lined all sheet metal with the foam. The manual calles for .25FT^3 of volume I eyeballed a bit more than that. The speakers now have a nice a nice punch of a small sealed enclosure but you can hear the gain of low frequency output resonated in the rear quarter area due to leaving that rear cutout open. Of course the little cutout under the speaker was sealed. This is a good quick option for about $30

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