jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

Random Question: Does everyone's voltage gauge drop when they first turn their A/C on? Is there anything that I can do to fix this?

I am interested in doing this Big 3.

1. Would i have to run an upgraded battery or is what a shop like autozone has regularly for our cars sufficient? I have an alpine head unit and some aftermarket stock replacement speakers in the stock location.

2. I think I might have to replace the wire that goes from the back of the alternator to the positive side of the battery. I had a shop do it and they did a really shitty job (zip tied it to the sway bar. I want it to be ran according to the stock routing and it might be too short) so if there is a benefit of doing like a 4 or 0 gauge wire, I am interested in hearing the opinions on that.

3. Does anyone know the how long each of the three power wires should be, like a pre-measured kind of kit?

4. Would it hurt to only increase the gauge of the wire that runs from the back of the alternator to the + terminal on the battery?

5. Would it hurt to do this mod to a car that only has aftermarket stock speakers in the stock location and an alpine head unit?

6. Would I need an inline fuse like in the video or is that only necessary for people running really loud stereos?

7. what about this guy mentioning the wire that runs from the fuse block to the + terminal on the battery at about 4:15 into the video? does that wire need to be upgraded as well to turn this into the big 4?

8. is there anything else that I am missing like a write up or a how to with pictures on someone that has already done this before? Sorry for my noob-ness on the subject. I just kind of stumbled across this, but I am very interested.

Thank you in advance for all of your help.

I tried a search, but couldn't find anything very determinant. hopefully this will help others in the future as well.

Fosnot

iTrader: (15)

If you're only using a headunit to power the stuff, you don't need to do this upgrade, if you're running 500w or more RMS, then you would see a benefit from doing it.

using 0 gauge vs 4 gauge is dependent on how powerful the system is, if you want to expand go ahead and pay a little more to get the 0 gauge to future proof anything you may want to do.

Inline fuse on the big three should only be put in place if there is one in the stock location, which to my knowledge there isn't on an fbody.

Upgraded battery would only be required if you want to run your system alot with the car off, or if you're pulling some major watts and your alternator can't keep up.

also, keep retards away that want to ziptie anything to your suspension....

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

ya i am assuming my speakers are just hooked up however they are from GM, the previous owner installed them. i dont see any extra stuff around the battery, so that is my guess.

ya about the zip-tie'ing to the sway bar. i am trying to find some pictures of how the wire from the alternator to the battery is routed from GM. i am not having very much luck so far.

you wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

thanks for posting Fosnot.

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

I could be wrong but I believe its run under the fan shroud.

94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

You are right, it is ran on back of the fans.

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

for anyone who may be interested i just did a big 5 ( big 3 plus leftover wire turned itself into the big 5) and my measurements were.

from the negative battery post to the passenger side of the chassis between the shock and the battery itself, i used 27 inches of 0 gauge power wire.

from the negative battery post to the spot on an iron 6.0 block between the starter and the a/c compressor, i used 3 feet of 0 gauge power wire. i had to bend my ring terminal a little bit to make this fit. a picture is below for clarification.



to replace the ground strap between block and the chassis on the driver's side, i used 18.5 inches of 0 gauge power wire. i removed the small bracket on the alternator and used that bolt hole as my block connection and used one of the two bolt holes to the right of the ABS bracket as my chassis connection. the picture below is for clarification. the two bolt holes circled in black are the ones that can be used. they are the same thread and pitch as the ABS bracket bolts, so if you need a bolt, just remove one from the ABS bracket and take that to the hardware store to get yourself set up.



from the back of the alternator to the positive battery post, i used 55 inches of 0 gauge power wire.

if you have leftover power wire, like i did, u could make another ground connection between the negative battery post and a post inside of the bumper area as shown in the pictures below. i don't think that you have to have your bumper removed to make this connection but I am not positive.





i hope this helps someone in the future.

6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

yea it helps me lol thanks

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

you are welcome.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

i put mine on where the top alternator bracket bolt is, but i did this after i swapped out my alternator so there was no bracket. this has got to be the absolute simplest place to tap in.

as for the big 3, you really won't notice a huge difference. IMO it's an overrated modification. i had a 1,500 watt sound system and my lights dimmed on every bass note. the mod did nothing to help that. even when i switched to a HO alternator, the mod did not help.

something i would do as a last resort to maintain another unfixable problem. doing it just for kicks is not advantageous unless you have a professional audio set up. any effects you might notice from doing this mod will most likely be too slim to notice, or otherwise will be purely psychological.

the only part of the mod that i would recommend is upping the cable gauge from your battery to your ground (chassis). this is also the easiest portion of this mod.

Head Hunter

iTrader: (14)

Great post jdoyle - thanks for taking the time to do that. Who all caries wiring like that? Would a local chain autopart store or would I have better luck at a car audio shop?

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

this is what i did as well.

i bought all of my stuff from knukonceptz.com. I bought this wire, these battery terminals, and these ring terminals.

the stuff from an autoparts store wont be as flexible, making it more difficult to work with. i may be guessing here, but i think the thickest wire they carry on the loom and sell by the foot, is 4 gauge. so definitely better luck at a car audio shop, but they will for sure charge you more, unless you know someone. I got all my stuff from knukonceptz for 85 shipped. i paid a car audio place to crimp, solder and heat shrink the terminals onto the wires for me.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i used welding cable from tractor supply..........they were close by to me........bigger wire is not a cure all.....if you still need more amps in a alt......bigger wire wire wont cure that.......but bigger wire will make sure all of the juice your alt is putting out makes it thru.......the stock wiring is not even big enuff for the stock alt.....so it is a must mod in my book

shoemike

iTrader: (25)

You can get a replacement set of 2 gauge power & ground cables
for the LS1 & LT1 Fbody online if you don't want to make your own.