LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

So I am in the market for coaxials and wanting to get the best bang for the buck. They are going in the sail panels on car in sig. Also gonna have a 10" sub in the back.
Just to name a few. Pioneer 2-ways(TSG1643R) $40; 3-way Rockford Fosgate Prime R1653 $60; 3-way Kenwood KFC-1662S; Also found these at walmart, but they sound to good to be true-Sony 4-ways XS R1643 $50. They sounded excellent in walmarts weird speaker display setup thingy. I think that I am overthinking the whole thing, but I am looking for some suggs let say price wise $40-$60. Anything that I should look for in specific, all help will be greatly appreciated.

squee

iTrader: (16)

First off, don't use coaxials. Use a midbass. Basically a component set without the crossover and tweeter. You don't want highs coming from behind you. It'll throw off the sound stage. The best for the money would be something like a CDT CL-6E.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

man im on a budget, I just wanna keep it simple. what i have now is complete ****. Can you just help me pick out a coaxial? Any brand that is better than others or ones in particular to stay away from?

squee

iTrader: (16)

Well, the thing is, if your not running amps, you'll still wanna keep with a midbass for it to sound correct. The sailpanel speakers from the factory are a midbass, and its best to stick with that. I saw that you said in the $60 range, so I suggested the cheapest CDTs you can get, which I think you can find em for $89 all day long, if not less if you look. I honestly don't know to much about the coaxials out there, since I've always tried to stay away from them, but I can tell you to keep away from the Sonys. The Pioneers are probably the way to go if your dead set on coaxials.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

What if I didn't run any sail panel speakers and just invested in a good set of components for the front doors, and had a sub in the hatch. How does that sound? Nobody rides in my backseat. Also, please explain how to wire up aftermarket components using aftermarket HU. If a component set says they are 4ohms. Does that mean the tweeter and woofer connect together and have one outgoing connection that is 4ohms or is it something different?

Quick94LT1

iTrader: (4)

Get alpine type s components in the front (60.00 on eBay) sps-600c and alpine type s 2ways in the rear (50.00 on eBay) sps-600. They sound AMAZING for the price even without an amp

squee

iTrader: (16)

I think I would leave the factory Monsoon amp if your car has it, which makes selecting speakers a bit more difficult, but its gonna sound better. If you leave the Monsoon amp, since you have a Trans Am, for the front doors you use a component set and leave the crossover out, and simply connect the stock tweeter wires to the aftermarket tweeter and then the same for the 6.5. If your gonna run it off your headunit, you simply run the front channels to the inputs on the crossovers and then the crossovers have a output for the tweeter and another for the 6.5. I tried out my speakers in my front doors without the sail panel speakers and it actually sounded really good, but ever so slightly off. Keep in mind I'm pretty picky and my components in my doors cost almost $1k, but regardless, it still sounded good. If you wanted to save some money, the Alpine Type S components would be a good way to go, but I wouldn't do what Quick94LT1 said, I would just get 2 sets of the components and don't use the crossovers or tweeters for the rear. Its only a extra $10 over the coaxials.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

So overall I should stick with the monsoon amp instead of using the HU to power my speakers. Second, the easiest way to do this is to find component speakers for the doors that have a 2ohm tweeter and a 4ohm woofer? If I do it this way it should sound better and I will still have good adjustability even with a aftermarket HU? This will sound better than using the HU to power the aftermarket components in the doors with the method you mentioned.
Also for example these components=http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1652S
/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1652-S.html?tp=106&
tab=features_and_specs
How do I find out if these have 2ohm tweeters and a 4ohm woofer? When they just say 4ohms?Is it 4ohms only when they are connected together?
How about these kicker components=http://www.sparksai.com/ProductDetai...Show=TechSpecs

SparksAI

You won't really find any with a seperate impendance for the tweeter and mid bass. With that said Whitebird posted a great FAQ about the monsoon setup where he addressed the 2 Ohm vs 4 Ohm issue and the general consensus is that running aftermarket 4 Ohm speakers off the Monsoon is fine, and you most likely won't experience a difference.

Between those two speaker set they are both good speakers but the Kickers have a wider frequency responce meaning they will cover a much wider range of music.

squee

iTrader: (16)

SparksAI is right.

For that price, I'd probably get the MB Quarts DSH-216s. There actually $10 cheaper than the ones you posted if you know where to look, and the same place I found the MB Quarts for $89.99, has the same RF Primes you posted for $20 less than the Crutchfield. Retail on the MB Quarts is $239.99 so there marked down quite a bit...The frequency range on them is 40-32,000Hz, which is alot better than the Kicker and RF. My other choice would be the CDT CL60As. There $109.99 though, and the frequency range is only 65-20,000Hz, but I KNOW they sound great. You can't go wrong with the MB Quarts though.

I actually kept looking a little more, and they also have the MB Quarts PVI-216s, for $139.99. They are a VERY nice speaker, and I'd say well worth the extra few bucks. Retail on them is $499.99 and the frequency response is 38-32,000Hz.

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

I went with the MB quarts DSH216s. Gonna run them with the monsoon amp and see how they sound. Also got a new HU to install. I've also got a 2channel 980watt amp laying around that needs to be put to work. As well as a single 10" bandpass box and a dual 10" bandpass box. Thinking about getting a sub for the single box. Amp install kit. Should I worry about the hatch speakers or put anything in the sail panels?

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

Got the MBquarts components in today. I have already installed a Pioneer HU, and that cleaned up the sound a lot. Like night and day. So this evening I started on the drivers side door panel component install. Somewhat a pain in the *** getting the door panel back on, but its done. I have one question about it though. What is everybody doing to mount the tweeters????????

Sound difference: WOW thats all I can say. The MB quarts are way,way louder and way, way clearer. Actually way better than I expected. Another night and day difference. The MB's are just getting started when the wore out stockers are farting and shitting out. They are just deafening. One thing I will say is that running them w/o the little crossover deal that comes with them; just hooking them up like the OEM speakers, the tweeters are freakin loud. Hopefully, once I get the sub put in it will change how I feel about that aspect. For the price I got these at, I never wanna go back to coaxials!
As far as the rest of what I am doing. I got a 1500watt planet audio monoblock amp. Also grabbed a pioneer champ series 10" sub. Building my own box. Later on I would like to get the RE audio seX10" sub.
thanks to everybody who was patient with me and helped out