Ws6kid.

If i remember correctly there was a company or some one that offered a BIG 3 kit. Can any one lead me to the right direction?
Second question would be is im thinking about relocation my battery into the trunk (spare tire area) I do have an Amp rack and a sub on the drivers side and would like to make the power and ground wires shorter.
But from what i know its illegal to have a battery in the trunk with out been vent out correct?

Ws6kid.

No one can Help me out?

pentavolvo

at one point in time elemental designs offered big3 kits not sure if they still do or not

cookba

iTrader: (10)

the Big 3 is just using larger gauge (numerically smaller) wire instead of the stock wire.

If you race your car, find a NHRA approved battery box.

Fosnot

iTrader: (15)

Well O'reilly's sells 4 gauge wires (if you ask they can tell you the length for your car, if they provide two lengths, go with the longer of the two)

I redid mine with the o'reilly wires
55" from Alternator to Battery
19" (it was tight, should have gotten a little longer maybe 23"?) from the Chassis to engine block; Up from what seems like if you rolled it up would be a 10 gauge wire (its some crappy metal strap).
and then a 12" from chassis to Battery ground, there was an extra hole near stock ground on my car, so I just got a metal screw (after sanding the area down) and added in the chassis/battery ground.
You can also get the gold plated (or whatever else) top terminal post and cut the finished end off, and go to that instead of the side post ground.
I supplemented all the(left in place the stock) wiring except for the alternator charge wire.

I saw a 1.5-2v increase with this upgraded, and it actually helped my slow passenger window out a lot. Furthermore, my amp can hit all day -at idle too- and I barely see a voltage dip (7" DD headunit, 400w of stereo and 480w of bass; 100w a piece head lights (400w total w/ highs) and 80w a piece fogs (160w total) so 560w of headlights (did the fogs w/ Highs mod on my bird))

I plan on adding other accessories, but as of now I don't see any kind of dim unless I have my stereo ***** to the wall loud w/ major bass as well. And even then its only a volt or so.

Aside from the back of the alternator, it was a very easy and fast install; Probably the most beneficial one I've done thus far. And if you get a bigger system than what I've done, just go off my lengths with 2 or 0 (or.. maybe bigger if you need?) gauge wire.

edit: As for your battery relocation, police check under your hood? lol Depending on how many CCA you're pushing, you may want to ensure you have 0 gauge from the rear to the engine bay, or at least the starter...
Best yet, 0 gauge to the engine bay, and have a real clean looking distribution block with 0 gauge in, and 4 gauge to your accessories/fuse block, 4 gauge to the starter(It looked like something like a 6 gauge run from the factory), and 4 gauge or greater from the alternator to the distribution block.
Then just have good ground connections in the back to the battery with 0 gauge or better.

If you got questions, feel free to PM me

Ws6kid.

Thanks ,question how did you wire it up to the battery?

Fosnot

iTrader: (15)

In the back?
You have a 0 gauge power(+) wire running to the positive terminal of the battery of your choice (I did a red top with the side and top terminals for more options) in the back; If you have a amp back there, you can proceed to connect whatever gauge of wire will fit into the amp to the battery(thats where the multiple terminals comes in handy, one for the main power line to the engine bay and another to power accessories such as amps.) Then you get yourself a good ground (just use self tapping sheet metal screws, on a sanded down area of the body, that won't puncture the surface--with paint on it; think before you screw ;p -- then just put a 0 gauge wire from that spot to the negative terminal on the battery.


Once you have the 0 gauge ran from the trunk area to the engine bay, put a good distribution block on it, and mount that in the bay somewhere (hide it or flaunt it, up to you) and connect the Alternator charge cable to it, the fuse block wire, and the starter wire to it.

As for the ground connections, just make yourself a good clean ground location to the sheet metal, somewhere concealed(again, sand down to shiny metal and use sheet metal screws) and you should be set.
Note: You may want to consider upgrading your starter wire, although its not required, and the alternator wire should be upgraded as part of the big 3.

With 0 gauge connections you should never need to upgrade again for any 'normal consumer' usage.


Cover everything guys?