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Installing sound deadening (edead 80)

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Old 11-21-2010, 11:42 PM
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Default Installing sound deadening (edead 80)

This is one mod i have been wanting to do since day one. I hate the excessive road noise. After a month and a half of waiting for this stuff (back ordered), my edead 80 finally arrived at my house. 120 sq ft worth. I believe its around 65lbs.



Got busy and pretty much gutted everything i could. Got some simple green and cleaned everything up. Going to start the install tomorrow.




Old 11-22-2010, 12:14 PM
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I am about to do the same thing, so i am subscribing to this thread. Let me know how it goes and any advice. Some pics of the progress would help a lot too.

Do you plan on installing on the door skins and panels?

I thought i read or was told somewhere to wipe the surface down with acetone before installing???
Old 11-23-2010, 10:21 PM
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I'll be following this too as I am contemplating doing the same thing. One thing I am wondering is what is the actual thickness of the eDead 80? The site says 1/4" but what you have looks thinner. Can you measure it and verify?
Old 11-24-2010, 09:41 AM
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Whats the total cost of materials OP? Also, I know of a guy that got some type of roofing roll out stuff for pretty cheap and did the same thing. Results were very good, any one have any suggestions for any other product that can be used?
Old 11-25-2010, 03:00 PM
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Its called quick roof and can be purchased at any lowes/home depot for around $15/ roll. I've got three in my garage... Just waiting for a day off to install
Old 11-25-2010, 04:51 PM
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i just purchased and received about 60 sqft of Edead 80, and 45, and I've sound deadened two different cars with multiple products so i wanted to give this one out for a try. Dynamat is nice, works well, but is the exact same thing as Raamat just stamped with dynamat all over it and much more expensive. Edead is completely different, you can def. tell it's a cheaper product. the foil facing is much thinner, and has more of a laminated plastic feel to it, making it a lot harder to work with around bumps, and indentations especially. The other products have a paper backing that is easy to remove, while Edead has a material much like saran wrap and very difficult to remove. While it seems Edead is much more flimsy, and weaker in the adhesive department, i don't have any other deadening to compare side by side. I hope it works as well, but the differences from this stuff are dramatic, and substantial
Old 12-02-2010, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by gpr
I am about to do the same thing, so i am subscribing to this thread. Let me know how it goes and any advice. Some pics of the progress would help a lot too.

Do you plan on installing on the door skins and panels?

I thought i read or was told somewhere to wipe the surface down with acetone before installing???
I installed this stuff inside the door itself along with the panels. As long as you clean the greese and dirt off the metal than you'll be ok. It just needs a clean, dry surface to stick to.

Originally Posted by BADFNZ
I'll be following this too as I am contemplating doing the same thing. One thing I am wondering is what is the actual thickness of the eDead 80? The site says 1/4" but what you have looks thinner. Can you measure it and verify?
80mm.

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Whats the total cost of materials OP? Also, I know of a guy that got some type of roofing roll out stuff for pretty cheap and did the same thing. Results were very good, any one have any suggestions for any other product that can be used?
I paid $232 shipped for 120 sq ft. I actually ended up using it all. some areas like the drive line, floor boards and fender wells was doubled up.
Old 12-02-2010, 02:45 PM
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Took a little longer than i expected, especially being busy with thanksgiving and stuff but i am done! I want to say just from the edead itself, noise has been reduce down to about 30-40%. and this is WITHOUT carpet, rear seats and all interior pieces! While the carpet was out, i went ahead and got it steam cleaned to get the exhaust smell out and a few stains. Havent got the carpet back yet so im sure it will be even more quiet when the complete interior is installed!

final thoughts... VERY easy to work with. No heatgun required. All you need is a razor blade, and a small roller and some cleaning solution. No smell whatsoever, non messy. 120 sqft is enough to cover the car like what you see in the pictures. I didnt do the roof or the hatch. If you dont mind the added weight, i say go for it! The car will be just that much more enjoyable to drive and not to mention being able to talk in the car with out a loud voice. here are a few pics...



Old 12-02-2010, 04:35 PM
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this looks like a mess waiting to happen. over all the install looks good though.

My car has the entire trunk surface, floor, b pillar(sail panel), roof, and completely up the firewall done in deadening material as well as ensolite closed cell foam in most of those areas. ensolite will be applied to all of it though shortly. I'm currently working on the doors, and hatch. driver door is finished, inside and out, and i've gotta start on the passenger door, and hatch here soon. just finding the time to do it is taking a while.

most of it is done it raamat, but i have some edead in it too.
here are some pictures.

Old 12-02-2010, 07:47 PM
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nice job just did mine. used 100 square feet. sounds like a bank vault when i shut my doors
Old 12-28-2010, 03:27 PM
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johnzss, how does it sound with everything back in? doors shut any more solidly?


those of you that did the doors, did you do the inner (closest to the interior) panel or did you reach in and do the actual door skin? ...or both?
Old 12-29-2010, 01:33 AM
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IMO the biggest gain comes from doing the inside of the outer door skin.
Old 12-29-2010, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by VinR1
johnzss, how does it sound with everything back in? doors shut any more solidly?


those of you that did the doors, did you do the inner (closest to the interior) panel or did you reach in and do the actual door skin? ...or both?
Inside the car with the windows rolled up, the car is VERY quiet. I can honestly say its damn near night and day difference. As far as the doors, i did both the panel closest to the interior, along with the inside the door itself. So both. and recommended to do so as well.

Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
IMO the biggest gain comes from doing the inside of the outer door skin.
I cant say where it makes the most difference sicne i did it all at once, but if i had to guess i'd say the rear of the car. Trunk, wheel wells, back seat.
Old 12-29-2010, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by VinR1
johnzss, how does it sound with everything back in? doors shut any more solidly?


those of you that did the doors, did you do the inner (closest to the interior) panel or did you reach in and do the actual door skin? ...or both?
I did both on mine, and then took the door panel itself, removed the factory foam and replaced it with the exact same size/shape cutout of Luxury Liner Pro from Second Skin Audio. The results were very good, and the door sounds very solid when closing it, even from the outside.

I actually have only done my doors so far...I'm waiting to do the rest of the car with Damplifier this spring when I get some free time. I don't plan on using Luxury Liner Pro anywhere else on the car due to its weight, but that is the stuff you want if you really want to stop the road noise.
Old 12-29-2010, 08:52 AM
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I only did the door skins (exterior) with Raamat. Each one took just over 4 sheets. I also put a 6"x6" piece of their foam material behind the new speakers I put in. I didn't want to remove the factory weather seal and replacing the factory foam inside the panels. You can definitely tell a difference when you shut the door. The speakers sound much better but hard to say how much of it is because of the new "cabinet" accoustics vs improved speakers (cdt 61CVs from Kee). ...probably more due to the speakers which are pretty impressive, btw.

I still want to try putting the Raamat foam material on the top side of my T-top inserts. Hard to say how much of the "whoosh" wind noise is coming from the glass and the roof, but I know just having the upholstered inserts in makes a huge difference, even though they are flimsy.

Also, if you have your door panels off, be sure to do the window weather stripping staple replacement so your panels don't crack! I found two hairline fractures that were just starting, not visible from the cabin side. The speakers, raamat, and staple replacement made it a long day but I figured if I had the doors apart, might as well make it worth the effort.
Old 12-29-2010, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Capricio
I only did the door skins (exterior) with Raamat. Each one took just over 4 sheets. I also put a 6"x6" piece of their foam material behind the new speakers I put in. I didn't want to remove the factory weather seal and replacing the factory foam inside the panels. You can definitely tell a difference when you shut the door. The speakers sound much better but hard to say how much of it is because of the new "cabinet" accoustics vs improved speakers (cdt 61CVs from Kee). ...probably more due to the speakers which are pretty impressive, btw.

I still want to try putting the Raamat foam material on the top side of my T-top inserts. Hard to say how much of the "whoosh" wind noise is coming from the glass and the roof, but I know just having the upholstered inserts in makes a huge difference, even though they are flimsy.

Also, if you have your door panels off, be sure to do the window weather stripping staple replacement so your panels don't crack! I found two hairline fractures that were just starting, not visible from the cabin side. The speakers, raamat, and staple replacement made it a long day but I figured if I had the doors apart, might as well make it worth the effort.
I bought a small amount of foam when i bought the edead 45. I think that is a good idea to try them on the t-top shades. If you try it let us know how well it works.

I was curious but what are talking about when you say staple your panels so they don't crack? Mine aren't cracked yet but if there is something i could do to prevent it in the future i defiantly will while its apart.
Old 12-29-2010, 03:45 PM
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There are several threads that explain this, and an article you can read.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...air/index.html

I basically performed the repair exactly as described in the article. I removed the staples and replaced them with screws. I made the holes a little oblong by moving forcing my drill bit sideways a little in both directions to allow expansion/contraction. Each panel has about a dozen staples. Look around on this forum and you'll find a lot more info on it. Some guys used wire instead of screws.

Pulling those staples is not fun, they are thick and strong. It's the worst part of the job. Be careful when you start playing rough with them, especially the ones near the narrow weaker areas of the panel edge. You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it.

Back on topic... Can anyone recommend some kind of primer that will allow my self-adhesive foam layer to stick to the T-Top shade plastic? I doubt it will stick very good without some kind of etching primer or something similar. That's what is holding me back from trying it at the moment.
Old 12-29-2010, 09:39 PM
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So does e deadening make the car really reduce road noise and give doors more sound of a door closing and not like its falling apart?
Old 12-29-2010, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bad_408_vert
So does e deadening make the car really reduce road noise and give doors more sound of a door closing and not like its falling apart?
I should have did some DB comparrisons, w/ and w/o the edead.

As far as reducing road noise, YES, it does work! like i said before, night and day difference for me. Even with the cut out open, exhaust noise has been reduce dramatically, but not completely. and the door shuts solid with no loose/clank noise.
Old 12-29-2010, 11:43 PM
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Nice! thank you


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