Big 3
#2
Big three is replacing those thin wires to a much bigger wires that deliver electricity in your car, 1 from alternator to the battery, 2 from the battery to the passenger side fender (small wire behind battery) & third ?? Some route to the K-member I think but don't qoute me on that .. Subscribed
#3
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1. Battery Positive to Alternator Output
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
#4
1. Battery Positive to Alternator Output
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
#5
1. Battery Positive to Alternator Output
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
#7
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I used 0 AWG for the B+ to alternator and B- to alternator because I had leftover wire from my amp installation. Used 4 AWG for engine ground to chassis ground. For the B+ to alternator and engine ground to chassis ground I left the stock wires connected. For the B- to chassis ground I remove the stock wire because it was in the way and only like 12-16 AWG.
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#8
I used 0 AWG for the B+ to alternator and B- to alternator because I had leftover wire from my amp installation. Used 4 AWG for engine ground to chassis ground. For the B+ to alternator and engine ground to chassis ground I left the stock wires connected. For the B- to chassis ground I remove the stock wire because it was in the way and only like 12-16 AWG.
#9
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What are the benefits of doing this? I have read countless posts about what to replace and nobody can seem to answer the benefit. I don't have voltage issues right now. I don't plan to run a huge stereo system probably just replace the speakers with one of Kee's package. Any benefit for me to upgrade?
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What are the benefits of doing this? I have read countless posts about what to replace and nobody can seem to answer the benefit. I don't have voltage issues right now. I don't plan to run a huge stereo system probably just replace the speakers with one of Kee's package. Any benefit for me to upgrade?
I'll give you a hand!
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=big+3+car+upgrade+advantages
#11
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Like I said.. since I won't be doing much upgrading to the speakers except to replace those that are blown with Kee's package.. would it benefit MY SETUP to do this not Joe Schmo's amp and sub system.
I know how to use the search and Google thanks for being a smart *** my question is still unanswered.
I know how to use the search and Google thanks for being a smart *** my question is still unanswered.
#12
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If you're not having issues right now, no it won't really help you at all. Just something people do when the problem arises or in anticipation of putting in a system. All that being said, it won't hurt either and is pretty simple.
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Like I said.. since I won't be doing much upgrading to the speakers except to replace those that are blown with Kee's package.. would it benefit MY SETUP to do this not Joe Schmo's amp and sub system.
I know how to use the search and Google thanks for being a smart *** my question is still unanswered.
I know how to use the search and Google thanks for being a smart *** my question is still unanswered.
But mainly a lot of people go for it as a piece of mind.. So they know there's no corrosion on the stock wiring. The stock wiring is fairly small and at the edge of its limits. Some people have reported 1-2mpg more, but who knows.
So other than audio I wouldn't see much of a proven use for it, unless it's just to help get a better signal across the system.
#14
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Haha sorry, I had to.
But mainly a lot of people go for it as a piece of mind.. So they know there's no corrosion on the stock wiring. The stock wiring is fairly small and at the edge of its limits. Some people have reported 1-2mpg more, but who knows.
So other than audio I wouldn't see much of a proven use for it, unless it's just to help get a better signal across the system.
But mainly a lot of people go for it as a piece of mind.. So they know there's no corrosion on the stock wiring. The stock wiring is fairly small and at the edge of its limits. Some people have reported 1-2mpg more, but who knows.
So other than audio I wouldn't see much of a proven use for it, unless it's just to help get a better signal across the system.