Camaro door speaker wiring (pics)
#5
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The reason you have extra wires in the doors is because you are replacing factory components (separate woofer and tweeter) with a coaxial speaker (integrated woofer and tweeter). You can modify the coaxial speakers to work like components or you can give up half the power and just connect the pair of wires that originally went to the woofer (the tweeter wires have filtered high frequency signal only).
The hatch speakers are not subs and no, you can't add the wiring from one set of speakers to another to increase the power. Either leave the hatch speakers alone or remove them and leave their wiring disconnected - it depends on your personal preference in sound. Many "audiophiles" will tell you that you should never have anything other than subs behind you but the popularity of surround sound indicates that lots of people like rear speakers. Go with whatever you feel sounds best.
#6
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Put down the wire cutters and step away from the car.
The reason you have extra wires in the doors is because you are replacing factory components (separate woofer and tweeter) with a coaxial speaker (integrated woofer and tweeter). You can modify the coaxial speakers to work like components or you can give up half the power and just connect the pair of wires that originally went to the woofer (the tweeter wires have filtered high frequency signal only).
The reason you have extra wires in the doors is because you are replacing factory components (separate woofer and tweeter) with a coaxial speaker (integrated woofer and tweeter). You can modify the coaxial speakers to work like components or you can give up half the power and just connect the pair of wires that originally went to the woofer (the tweeter wires have filtered high frequency signal only).
Is there anyway to get full range from coaxial speakers while still using your factory amp?
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#8
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I don't think that is possible. There are only two wires coming out of the speakers....
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to wire these speakers up and get full range from the factory amp or am I going to have to get an aftermarket amp?
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to wire these speakers up and get full range from the factory amp or am I going to have to get an aftermarket amp?
#9
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See the black wires running up the back and into the magnet under the sticker... those are going to the tweeter. You cut them close to the terminal and wire those to the tweeter wires on the harness, then run the other pair to the regular pos an neg. That is how you get around that. Not a great thing to have to do by cutting wires on your brand new speakers to get them to work with your system but that is how you have to do it to make it work with the Monsoon amp.
You can completely leave the resister on the right out of the mix, the thing that says vent on it. That is the "bass blocker" for the tweeter. The Monsoon system does that already for the Camaro so it is unnecessary.
The Polk above is the same way. In this case it is the small red and black wires running up the back and under the sticker. It appears to also have a resistor for the midrange portion as well that would probably block certain bass frequencies that the are too low for that speakers midrange portion.
You can completely leave the resister on the right out of the mix, the thing that says vent on it. That is the "bass blocker" for the tweeter. The Monsoon system does that already for the Camaro so it is unnecessary.
The Polk above is the same way. In this case it is the small red and black wires running up the back and under the sticker. It appears to also have a resistor for the midrange portion as well that would probably block certain bass frequencies that the are too low for that speakers midrange portion.