Steering Wheel Controls/12v to 3.3v
06-28-2011, 04:16 PM
#1
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Steering Wheel Controls/12v to 3.3v I have a 2000 Camaro z28. I am finishing up a car computer install for it. I will be sure to get some pics and features up here at some point.
One of the last issues I am dealing with in connecting the steering wheel controls to the computer. I am using a JoyCon Ex (found here http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetai...2D111&CartID=4). My understanding is that it only works at 3.3v (even though it accepts up to 24v). I found a post on another forum saying the steering wheel control wire in the radio harness for fbodies are powered by 12v. Thus I need to bring the current down to 3.3v. I have no idea on how to do this. Any guidance would be fantastic. Also, it was mentioned that there is a connector under the steering wheel panel that you could disconnnect to remove the 12v from the steering wheel controls. See pic:
I seem to see all the connectors except the one that is supposed to be clipped. I am thinking it is firebird specific and the camaro one is somewhere else? Anyone happen to know of that may be the case?
One of the last issues I am dealing with in connecting the steering wheel controls to the computer. I am using a JoyCon Ex (found here http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetai...2D111&CartID=4). My understanding is that it only works at 3.3v (even though it accepts up to 24v). I found a post on another forum saying the steering wheel control wire in the radio harness for fbodies are powered by 12v. Thus I need to bring the current down to 3.3v. I have no idea on how to do this. Any guidance would be fantastic. Also, it was mentioned that there is a connector under the steering wheel panel that you could disconnnect to remove the 12v from the steering wheel controls. See pic:
I seem to see all the connectors except the one that is supposed to be clipped. I am thinking it is firebird specific and the camaro one is somewhere else? Anyone happen to know of that may be the case?
06-28-2011, 05:31 PM
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Not sure how well it would work, but there are cheap Multi Voltage 12V DC Power Adapters out there with a 3VDC output selection. Maybe take the guts out and modify the wire leads on one??
06-28-2011, 08:19 PM
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Not a bad idea. I was also looking into using resistors inline, but I was not sure what sizes it would take to bring it down from 12v to 3.3v I was hoping to avoid both if it was as easy as unplugging a 12v connector.
http://www.mp3car.com/input-devices/...rans-am-3.html
The guy that started that thread is basically what I am dealing with. Post 22, if anyone is familiar with the joycon ex system, is exactly the issue I am having. That thread was full of great info, that got me up to this point.
http://www.mp3car.com/input-devices/...rans-am-3.html
The guy that started that thread is basically what I am dealing with. Post 22, if anyone is familiar with the joycon ex system, is exactly the issue I am having. That thread was full of great info, that got me up to this point.
06-29-2011, 08:25 AM
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Another option would be to get a pull-down voltage regulator IC:
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TDA3683.pdf
Get a Radio Shack IC PC board and a small enclosure with some interface plugs, and you're set to go.
I just listed that chip as an example, there are probably more basic options that would suit your needs. Also, not sure how much current your board is going to draw.
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/TDA3683.pdf
Get a Radio Shack IC PC board and a small enclosure with some interface plugs, and you're set to go.
I just listed that chip as an example, there are probably more basic options that would suit your needs. Also, not sure how much current your board is going to draw.
06-29-2011, 09:25 AM
#6
There are two separate fuses labeled STG WHL CNTRLS in the fuse panel. One is for illumination (#13) and the other is for switch function (#3). The switch function circuit is completely separate so you could unplug it and use whatever voltage you want for input.
06-30-2011, 12:22 AM
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When I pull the #3 fuse it appears to disconnect the steering wheel controls altogether. I get no response on the board. When I plugged it back in, I was getting a response, just out of the range the board accepts. Looks like a pull-down might be the best option unless I connect into the wire straight out of the column, which is the last thing I am trying before the pull-down.
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06-30-2011, 08:30 AM
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Do a google search on "LM317 DC In 5~24V Out 2.5~12V Volt Regulator Converter PT-PC003".
Not sure if 500mA is enough for your board but this would give you a full range of adjustability to account for variance in your source level.
This board is so small, you could just wrap it with some electrical tape and not even bother with an enclosure.
Not sure if 500mA is enough for your board but this would give you a full range of adjustability to account for variance in your source level.
This board is so small, you could just wrap it with some electrical tape and not even bother with an enclosure.
03-21-2012, 04:50 PM
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You don't need any thing but the ex joycon. Steering wheel lighta may not work but mine never did anyways. Just disconnect the plug and connect the joycon. Mines been working for years.
03-21-2012, 06:32 PM
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So you got it working without having to step down the voltage? Im not trying to make you repeat yourself or anything...just heard of folks frying the joycon without doing this.
Thanks!
Thanks!
03-21-2012, 07:40 PM
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It's been a few years and I can try to look tomorrow to remember what I did. But if memory serves me right. I cut the wires and left one end undone and just taped into the other column side. This removed the 12 volts and left the resistance. That being said I did blow 1 joycon figuring this out.
If you need me to tomorrow I will take a better look and let you know exactly what I did.
If you need me to tomorrow I will take a better look and let you know exactly what I did.
