General Speaker Question non Fbody
11-21-2011, 11:40 AM
#1
General Speaker Question non Fbody I have been out of the speaker game for a while and basically need some help in making sure I have what I want/need. I have been looking through the FAQ and searching and can find some helpful info but for my needs, nothing exactly matches.
So anyways like said this was NON Fbody but still a GM situation. I own a 2000 Buick Century with like 86k on the clock but all the speakers are blown so its time for a upgrade.
Now I am not into AMPs or Subs or any of that and I am back and forth on even bothering to upgrade the stock head unit. I may still do it based on what I recently bought so anyone here with some good insight, feel free to weigh in.
My Buick has 6 x 9" in the back, 5.25" in the front, and small door tweeters if I can call them that. I ordered the main one and when I install I gotta see how bad the tweeters are after the install since I cannot guaged based on how bad the rest are.
In general how much to GM head units put out for Watts and thats based on RMS. I could not find anything on that if someone knows pls feel free to point it out.
I basically bought these...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...wer-T1693.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...unch-P152.html
I know Ohm comes into play in needed more power to have the same level of sound and theses are both 4 ohm so I may require at min to upgrade the head unit to take advantage of the better speakers.
So in general, just looking for some opinions on the purchase and when dealing with a stock speaker upgrade, did you find you HAD to at least do the head unit to really notice the difference? OR being going up on the ohms degrade the sound quality to the point of having to increase the deck RMS Wattage....
So anyways like said this was NON Fbody but still a GM situation. I own a 2000 Buick Century with like 86k on the clock but all the speakers are blown so its time for a upgrade.
Now I am not into AMPs or Subs or any of that and I am back and forth on even bothering to upgrade the stock head unit. I may still do it based on what I recently bought so anyone here with some good insight, feel free to weigh in.
My Buick has 6 x 9" in the back, 5.25" in the front, and small door tweeters if I can call them that. I ordered the main one and when I install I gotta see how bad the tweeters are after the install since I cannot guaged based on how bad the rest are.
In general how much to GM head units put out for Watts and thats based on RMS. I could not find anything on that if someone knows pls feel free to point it out.
I basically bought these...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...wer-T1693.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...unch-P152.html
I know Ohm comes into play in needed more power to have the same level of sound and theses are both 4 ohm so I may require at min to upgrade the head unit to take advantage of the better speakers.
So in general, just looking for some opinions on the purchase and when dealing with a stock speaker upgrade, did you find you HAD to at least do the head unit to really notice the difference? OR being going up on the ohms degrade the sound quality to the point of having to increase the deck RMS Wattage....
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; 11-21-2011 at 11:45 AM.
11-21-2011, 11:44 AM
#2
https://ls1tech.com/forums/2743519-post4.html Before someone else mentions this, this is all that I could find but again I have a basic understanding but at least it allows for more room INCASE I decide to go bigger and add a basic amp and better then stock head unit.
11-22-2011, 09:21 AM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A reduction in current from higher impedance can easily be offset by a higher sensitivity level. The speakers you bought should be fine for your application, and certainly better than having 4 blown ones.
As far as a new HU... yes a newer aftermarket one will sound better, but just having an AUX input and USB port are worth the expense and effort, IMHO. Installing a new HU shouldn't be too bad on a car like that (non Bose), but honestly I'm not all that familiar with it.
If you want an external amp, I'd recommend getting an HU with full RCA outputs and look at a small, efficient full-range class D four channel amp. Be prepared to do a lot more wiring than if you just swap in a new HU.
As far as a new HU... yes a newer aftermarket one will sound better, but just having an AUX input and USB port are worth the expense and effort, IMHO. Installing a new HU shouldn't be too bad on a car like that (non Bose), but honestly I'm not all that familiar with it.
If you want an external amp, I'd recommend getting an HU with full RCA outputs and look at a small, efficient full-range class D four channel amp. Be prepared to do a lot more wiring than if you just swap in a new HU.
11-22-2011, 09:29 AM
#5
I appreciate the response, I have been doing more research and I am deciding on the HU as we speak and also if I wanted to put a small amp in to take advantage of the speaker range. Def recalling some of my wiring exp so its a re learning process.
11-22-2011, 11:14 AM
#6
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bet depth will be an issue for you. Try to find a mounting kit that protrudes outward a little bit, I have something like that in my suburban. Crutchfield says this for a 2000 Buick Century:
"Usable space behind your dash for a new stereo: 6.805"
"Usable space behind your dash for a new stereo: 6.805"
Trending Topics
11-22-2011, 01:45 PM
#8
A HU with an iPod tray is OK as long as it isn't Dual. Also, if deciding to do a 4 channel amp then don't look for class D, you will most likely be looking at a class A/B hybrid.
12-02-2011, 09:25 AM
#10
Just an update, I installed the speakers. A little PITA due to wire length is at a premium. THANK YOU GM and your cost cutting measures.
Anyways. I had to cut and crimp some connectors (blue 14-16 ga.)
Only odd thing was the + and - on the factory stuff was confusing. Nothing outright (-) or (+) and I tested each once I singled them out and whatever sounded the best. Also wiring color wise was of no use.
When I put an amp in I will be better able to re wire anyways but either way they sound amazing!
Anyways. I had to cut and crimp some connectors (blue 14-16 ga.)
Only odd thing was the + and - on the factory stuff was confusing. Nothing outright (-) or (+) and I tested each once I singled them out and whatever sounded the best. Also wiring color wise was of no use.
When I put an amp in I will be better able to re wire anyways but either way they sound amazing!
