Electrical problems
12-18-2011, 01:52 AM
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Electrical problems Got in my car this morning and noticed the my dash cluster wasn't working, radio had no power and the running lamps(front and rear) don't work.
Brake lights work, headlights work and turn signals work.
I checked all my fuses. Had two blown but everything else was good including under the hood. Tail lamps fuse and PWY ACCY fuse were blown. I replaced the tail lamps fuse (did not replace PWY ACCY fuse), went to flip on the headlights, saw a glimmer of hope on my dash but then the fuse popped again. I then checked all my grounds and they were good, put in another tail lamps fuse and boom, blown again.
Do I need to start tracing connections or does anyone have any shorter alternatives? I've never really messed with any electrical stuff other than splicing a third brake light in a while back. Should I double check that connection? Would that possibly have anything to do with my problems? I honestly am a noob with this ****. Thanks ya'll.
Brake lights work, headlights work and turn signals work.
I checked all my fuses. Had two blown but everything else was good including under the hood. Tail lamps fuse and PWY ACCY fuse were blown. I replaced the tail lamps fuse (did not replace PWY ACCY fuse), went to flip on the headlights, saw a glimmer of hope on my dash but then the fuse popped again. I then checked all my grounds and they were good, put in another tail lamps fuse and boom, blown again.
Do I need to start tracing connections or does anyone have any shorter alternatives? I've never really messed with any electrical stuff other than splicing a third brake light in a while back. Should I double check that connection? Would that possibly have anything to do with my problems? I honestly am a noob with this ****. Thanks ya'll.
12-19-2011, 01:49 AM
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removed headlights, taillights and turn signals. All connections/sockets are solid. Also rechecked the wiring for the third brake light and that is still solid. The car has been in the garage for a solid two months now and hasn't been exposed to the elements for a while so I doubt it's condensation. Where do I start looking at next?
12-20-2011, 04:44 PM
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Replaced the dimmer fuse even though it looked good and replaced the power accessory fuse. I NOW have my gauges, windows, and my radio. Still don't have the running lights(front and rear) or my speedometer background lights. Tail lamps fuse blew right away after flipping on my parking lights. Bad headlight/dimmer switch?
Last edited by PACKERSz28Camaro; 12-20-2011 at 04:50 PM.
12-21-2011, 05:32 PM
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This is pissing me off now.
Got in my car this morning, no radio or gauges again and power accessory fuse was blown again. I did notice my running lights in the front WERE working for some reason even though I had no taillamps fuse in. So I replaced the power accessory fuse and drove where I needed too. Parked car for 15 minutes and when I got in, the power accessory fuse was blown again. Back to square one. Could this be an alternator issue? Anyone? I've noticed my headlights sort of dimming slightly in the past.
Got in my car this morning, no radio or gauges again and power accessory fuse was blown again. I did notice my running lights in the front WERE working for some reason even though I had no taillamps fuse in. So I replaced the power accessory fuse and drove where I needed too. Parked car for 15 minutes and when I got in, the power accessory fuse was blown again. Back to square one. Could this be an alternator issue? Anyone? I've noticed my headlights sort of dimming slightly in the past.
12-22-2011, 07:51 AM
#5
If you are blowing fuses, it is not an alternator problem, or a battery problem, or a ground problem...
What you have is a short somewhere that is allowing a powered wire to connect directly to ground or possibly an add-on device that is drawing more power than the circuit can handle. Do you have aftermarket electrical accessories installed?
Finding the source of the problem will involve testing with a multimeter at various points on the circuit to narrow down the the area where the short is located but starting around non-factory equipment usually shortens the search.
What you have is a short somewhere that is allowing a powered wire to connect directly to ground or possibly an add-on device that is drawing more power than the circuit can handle. Do you have aftermarket electrical accessories installed?
Finding the source of the problem will involve testing with a multimeter at various points on the circuit to narrow down the the area where the short is located but starting around non-factory equipment usually shortens the search.
12-22-2011, 09:30 AM
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^^^ What he said.
And if you have aftermarket acc. just unplug all of them and test some new fuses again. That way if the fuse does not blow, then you know its one of those acc. If no aftermarket acc. stuff then start in the engine bay where all the heat is which can take its toll on wires especially if a previous owner left stuff hanging here or there..
Have fun searching. I always love tracing electrical problems.
And if you have aftermarket acc. just unplug all of them and test some new fuses again. That way if the fuse does not blow, then you know its one of those acc. If no aftermarket acc. stuff then start in the engine bay where all the heat is which can take its toll on wires especially if a previous owner left stuff hanging here or there..
Have fun searching. I always love tracing electrical problems.
12-22-2011, 12:54 PM
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If you are blowing fuses, it is not an alternator problem, or a battery problem, or a ground problem...
What you have is a short somewhere that is allowing a powered wire to connect directly to ground or possibly an add-on device that is drawing more power than the circuit can handle. Do you have aftermarket electrical accessories installed?
Finding the source of the problem will involve testing with a multimeter at various points on the circuit to narrow down the the area where the short is located but starting around non-factory equipment usually shortens the search.
What you have is a short somewhere that is allowing a powered wire to connect directly to ground or possibly an add-on device that is drawing more power than the circuit can handle. Do you have aftermarket electrical accessories installed?
Finding the source of the problem will involve testing with a multimeter at various points on the circuit to narrow down the the area where the short is located but starting around non-factory equipment usually shortens the search.
^^^ What he said.
And if you have aftermarket acc. just unplug all of them and test some new fuses again. That way if the fuse does not blow, then you know its one of those acc. If no aftermarket acc. stuff then start in the engine bay where all the heat is which can take its toll on wires especially if a previous owner left stuff hanging here or there..
Have fun searching. I always love tracing electrical problems.
And if you have aftermarket acc. just unplug all of them and test some new fuses again. That way if the fuse does not blow, then you know its one of those acc. If no aftermarket acc. stuff then start in the engine bay where all the heat is which can take its toll on wires especially if a previous owner left stuff hanging here or there..
Have fun searching. I always love tracing electrical problems.
Last edited by PACKERSz28Camaro; 03-05-2012 at 12:44 AM.
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12-22-2011, 04:08 PM
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Good news. traced the connections and rechecked the wiring harness for the tail-lights and for the headlights+fogs+turn signals. I noticed a wire that was being pinched on the mounting post on the driver side tail light. Adjusted the wire, and everything appears to be back to normal!
Last edited by PACKERSz28Camaro; 03-05-2012 at 12:45 AM.
