Need a quick answer to this.....can't wait.....
#1
Need a quick answer to this.....can't wait.....
I've had a 700 watt amp for 9 years now. It blew because it got soaked in water.
It has been running 4 x 100 and 1 x 300
4 matts speakers and a 12" woofer. ((two door speakers have two tweeters also))
If I replace it with a Powerbass 1100.5 and go: ((400 watt increase from my old amp))
4 x 150
1 x 500
Will this cause any trouble with being "too much" more watts....especially the 200 watt increase to my woofer?
Or, since all speakers will have more power going to them......will I simply just NOT have to turn up the volume as much as Im used to to get the same level of volume output?
Thanks.
***need a quick answer because I have till tonight or tomorrow morning to buy a brand new 700 watt amp from a friend, or he's got it sold to someone else.
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It has been running 4 x 100 and 1 x 300
4 matts speakers and a 12" woofer. ((two door speakers have two tweeters also))
If I replace it with a Powerbass 1100.5 and go: ((400 watt increase from my old amp))
4 x 150
1 x 500
Will this cause any trouble with being "too much" more watts....especially the 200 watt increase to my woofer?
Or, since all speakers will have more power going to them......will I simply just NOT have to turn up the volume as much as Im used to to get the same level of volume output?
Thanks.
***need a quick answer because I have till tonight or tomorrow morning to buy a brand new 700 watt amp from a friend, or he's got it sold to someone else.
.
#4
TECH Addict
It's a <3dB increase all around. Not worth it, IMO. And your front speakers can't take 150w, anyway. Some people on forums claim they run ridiculous power like 250WRMS to their fronts. Every single one of them is either a dumbass or a liar, because there are NO 6.5" 2-way component sets (let alone coaxial) that will take that power. They might have huge amps on the speakers, but all that does is waste power because a big amp has a high rail voltage and if you don't actually use that power, all of that voltage just gets dissipated in the output transistors.
I think it's a waste of money.
I think it's a waste of money.
#5
It's a <3dB increase all around. Not worth it, IMO. And your front speakers can't take 150w, anyway. Some people on forums claim they run ridiculous power like 250WRMS to their fronts. Every single one of them is either a dumbass or a liar, because there are NO 6.5" 2-way component sets (let alone coaxial) that will take that power. They might have huge amps on the speakers, but all that does is waste power because a big amp has a high rail voltage and if you don't actually use that power, all of that voltage just gets dissipated in the output transistors.
I think it's a waste of money.
I think it's a waste of money.
I want the best amp for the best sound. I have Matts speakers up front with tweeters, and in the back seat side walls, but I have no idea what their ratings are.
I just know I've had 100 watts going to all 4 corners and 300 to the 12" woofer.
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#6
TECH Addict
You would gain a bit of volume from the sub and I don't think the extra power up front will be usable anyway due to limitations of speakers.
Also, what THD does Powerbass rate their amps at? If it's something ridiculous like 1% then the real power at a decent THD (e.g. 0.01%) might not even be higher than what you have now (depending on what exactly that is).
Also, what THD does Powerbass rate their amps at? If it's something ridiculous like 1% then the real power at a decent THD (e.g. 0.01%) might not even be higher than what you have now (depending on what exactly that is).
#7
You would gain a bit of volume from the sub and I don't think the extra power up front will be usable anyway due to limitations of speakers.
Also, what THD does Powerbass rate their amps at? If it's something ridiculous like 1% then the real power at a decent THD (e.g. 0.01%) might not even be higher than what you have now (depending on what exactly that is).
Also, what THD does Powerbass rate their amps at? If it's something ridiculous like 1% then the real power at a decent THD (e.g. 0.01%) might not even be higher than what you have now (depending on what exactly that is).
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#8
TECH Addict
Well, I'm sure it'll work fine as long as that brand makes reliable products. I actually have had some bad luck with a lot of amps so I don't tend to buy no-name stuff, personally. I'm not telling you to avoid more power, just that it's not much more than the 700w amp. But if the 700w amp deal is gone (or the deal itself isn't that hot) then I'm indifferent. Power is fine, just that when you talk comparisons between amps, you need to at least double your power to get a notable difference, and I'd say at least 4x to be significant.
#9
Well, I'm sure it'll work fine as long as that brand makes reliable products. I actually have had some bad luck with a lot of amps so I don't tend to buy no-name stuff, personally. I'm not telling you to avoid more power, just that it's not much more than the 700w amp. But if the 700w amp deal is gone (or the deal itself isn't that hot) then I'm indifferent. Power is fine, just that when you talk comparisons between amps, you need to at least double your power to get a notable difference, and I'd say at least 4x to be significant.
$240.00 shipped.
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#10
TECH Addict
I'm a big fan of RF amps. I think they are some of the most reliable out there and they tend to be underrated (the Prime series less so, but it's still well regarded).
#11
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You haven't stated whether your numbers are max rating or rms, what ohms are you running these at? Need more info really.
Power all speakers or subs at 70-100 percent of their rms rating and you'll be fine. 700 max output is really not enough to power some decent doors and a sub.
Power all speakers or subs at 70-100 percent of their rms rating and you'll be fine. 700 max output is really not enough to power some decent doors and a sub.
#12
You haven't stated whether your numbers are max rating or rms, what ohms are you running these at? Need more info really.
Power all speakers or subs at 70-100 percent of their rms rating and you'll be fine. 700 max output is really not enough to power some decent doors and a sub.
Power all speakers or subs at 70-100 percent of their rms rating and you'll be fine. 700 max output is really not enough to power some decent doors and a sub.
The 700 watt amp I've had for 9 years has been way too much as far as volume, it was friggin loud as all hell. I never, ever had to turn it up all the way, not even close.
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#13
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I don't know if you have a stock alternator or what type of battery you're running, but I would be more concerned with the vehicles charging and battery system than damaging the speakers with an 1100 watt amp. You can't just throw more wattage draw at the vehicles electrical system without some proper planning. I think you just trying to get a good deal on a replacement amp it sounds like that just happens to have more power.
There are equations that are easily found that will let you know the vehicles stereo capability. The main things you need to know are you alternator amperes, battery amp hrs, total watts RMS you plan to run, and your vehicles electrical capability in best and worst case scenarios with the average being 12.4 volts.
You can change the variables in these equation to figure out how much reserve amperes you will have after an 1100 watt amp is installed. You can also determine if you need additional batteries or a H.O. alternator. You might want to look into a Big 3 upgrade as well. IMHO capacitors are just a waste.
Maybe a higher wattage amp may not be for you and whatever savings you may get may be required to be spent elsewhere on the vehicle.
Good luck!
Last edited by joblo1978; 12-29-2011 at 09:02 PM.
#16
They are within $15.00 of each other, shipped......
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#17
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Yea, I've never had any kind of charging issues though...."joblo" brings up a good point, why risk having to deal with a new issue. I'll just get the RF 600.5 and I'll know it'll be plenty of power and I'll have no charging issues.
They are within $15.00 of each other, shipped......
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They are within $15.00 of each other, shipped......
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I'm working on putting my first SQ system together on my 09 Avalanche. Never had more than stock replacement stuff. Luckily I have a 140ish ampere alternator stock and can run 1100 RMS no prob.