TrexAudiS3

Hi, i just get my Kee Audio ultra high end speaker replacement for my 97 Trans am, im installing it with the stock monsoon amp, my question is how to connect the rear hatch component system, i need to install it with the included crossover or without it.?

Thanks.

bill12690

iTrader: (4)

From what I understand you don't really need the crossover if your still running on the monsoon amp, because it has one built in. You may want to if you get an aftermarket amp though. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Capricio

You can do it either way, just don't leave both the crossover and the factory high-pass filter (HPF) both in-line at the same time.

Since the crossover modules cause a bit of power loss and the Monsoon amp is somewhat weak as external amps go, I recommend what Bill suggested and don't use the external crossovers on factory power, but save them for later to take advantage of clearer frequency separation when you have a better aftermarket amp with more power.

It's a little more complicated than that because the Monsoon system actually dedicates different amp channels to the tweeters. Pontiacs use the HU integrated amp to drive their 4 tweeters. Camaros use channels from the Monsoon amp on the door tweeters. So if you just wire the full range amped signal to the mid cone through an external crossover module then splitting it out, you're giving up some of your amplified source power AND dealing with the loss from the crossover, too.

Edit: *IF* you have a camaro and *IF* you're replacing a full range two-way speaker with a component set in the hatch, *THEN* go ahead and use the external crossover module in the hatch only, *IF* you are using the stock Monsoon amp. I forgot you bought the super high end kit with hatch components, and in a Chevy there would be no factory HPF in the hatch to start with.

TrexAudiS3

Im trying to install the package, i already remove all the stock speakers, tomorrow i think im finishing the install, the subwoofers are fairly easy to replace, the rear hatch ones just need to trim a little bit to fit the component speakers, the door speakers, well im trying to make it fit, the tweeters are easy, the mids its just a little bigger, but i have 1 or two ideas how to make it fit, (just looked several threads here, thanks), but i have some questions about the tweeters, i get one 1" pair with the rear hatch components and 1 3/4" pair with the front components, would the 1" be better up front or rear i dont know wich one to put on. I apreciate your help.

Capricio

I'd keep the tweeters matched with the cones they came with. It's surprising, if as you say, the 4" cones have 1" tweeters and the 6.5" cones have 3/4" tweeters. Probably not a huge deal if you swap them around, in any case.

Since you have a trans am, your rear tweeters should be independently powered by the HU, so I wouldn't use any external crossover modules until you get something more powerful than the Monsoon amp. Hopefully what I said earlier made sense. Sounds like you know what you're doing, good luck.

TrexAudiS3

I took some pics , also i change the windows motors and the autotrix window fix.

TrexAudiS3

I just finished the installation, i already test the system and wow! the door speakers are awesome, they sound very clear and crisp the subs sound is clear bass that not only can be heard but feel,( not like a big sub, but way better than the stock ones) now i have to fix some rattles that sound with this subs!, the rear hatch speakers also sound very good, the mids barely moves but sound very good the tweeters sound very well, but i have a concern about the tweeters the rear hatch ones, i installed the rear components with out the crossovers that came with, the mids as i said before barely moves, but souns very good, but the tweeters with some songs if i put to much bass with the equalizer i hear like the tweeters i dont know how to describe but is like popping out a little bit, like if some bass come thru but do not distort only when the pop ocurrs, the front ones doesnt have that problem, what can be the problem? do i need to put the crossover that came with the tweeters?
Thanks for your help.

Capricio

In the hatch... are you sure you still have the factory HPF module in line with the tweeter, basically a blister in the wire?

Also, doublecheck and make sure you didn't mix up the pairs for the cone and the tweeter?

I'd be careful cranking up the volume until that cracking stops.

TrexAudiS3

In the front doors theres a visible hpf, but in the rear hatch there arent any one visible, only one mounted on the tweeter itself a very small one, is this the one that have to be connected or theres another filter, maybe where it cant be seen? Anyone knows where is the rear hatch hpf? (high pass filter). I also checked that i have not mix the pairs because the connectors are colored, blue for tweeters and black for mids.
Yes i havent turn too loud the volume until i fix that because the poping.

Thanks for your help.

Capricio

I honestly don't remember what the story is on the hatch HPF, and my car is away right now. The only time I messed with mine, I put in a 4" two-way and an aftermarket amp, so I wasn't paying much attention.

Are both hatch tweeters doing it? or just one side?

you could also try putting just the OEM hatch tweeters back in, and see if they behave the same way, just to isolate the problem a little.

Only other thing I can suggest is doublecheck your polarity on your popping tweeters.

TrexAudiS3

Hi, i use the filter that came with the stock tweeters, i have to destroy the old tweeters to use it, but i think it solved the popping problem, But now i have another question i think it will be the last one one this system(hopefully), the question is in the sail panel speakers place it has a hole that go to the rear of the car, in another thread i saw that he has sealed all of the hole with dynamat, do i have to cover all the hole that goes back or how much deadening i have to put to obtain the best results? (best sound of the subs CDT HD-6M DVC)

Thanks

Capricio

You can use dynomat to seal that hole, but really any material can serve that purpose. A little patch of Dynomat/Raamat on the main sheet metal will dampen any vibration/resonance in the area of the subs.

The area behind the sub to some degree can act as either a ported or sealed enclosure. Both types have advantages/disadvantages. Ported allows greater freedom of movement for more excursion, allowing more volume (SPL). Sealed allows for better control and tighter, punchier bass response (SQ).

Each type of enclosure will also have an optimum volume determined by the diameter, frequency response, excursion, etc. It's doubtful that the volume of a area behind those sail panel subs is optimized for either a ported or sealed condition. ...so, in the end, I'd say it won't matter all that much.

If you want to seal it for less boomier bass effects, use whatever you want to block the hole. If you want to use some dynomat for vibration resonance dampening in the sheet metal, a little bit behind the speaker cone should do it.

2002ss335

Ian recommended Quick Roof to me when I got my speaker package. I saw one guy use it for the sail panel around the hole and it looked like he put some on the fender. I just covered the hole with the added benefit of reducing road noise. One roll is plenty.


http://www.homedepot.com/Quick-Roof/...&storeId=10051

Todd