Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Considering picking up a small amp for the cabin speakers in my '02 Camaro to add a little more punch, but wondering how I would need to run the wiring to the door speakers, as well as what type of amp would be good for my setup.

Here is what setup I currently have:
Pioneer 6000pu HU
Alpine Type-S SPS-600c (4 ohm, 240w peak/80w RMS)

And what I plan on purchasing soon:
Kicker CVT654 (SVC 4 ohm, 300w peak/150w RMS)
Amp - TBD

I used the factory connector cut off the stock speakers in the doors, and ran the mid-bass wire to the 6.5 and the two tweeter wires directly to the tweeter. If I run a 4 channel and pull new wire to the 6.5's, can I leave the tweeters connected to the factory wiring and it sound ok? The component set was originally setup to run all power to the 6.5 and the tweeter had a crossover that went to additional terminals on the back of the 6.5 to get power.

With what I have currently, what would be a good quality amp that would run 75-80 watt RMS to all speakers? Also, would I be able to mount the amp in the cabin (under the passenger seat?) to reduce the amount of wire I'd run or do I need to mount it in the trunk area?

Capricio

I would run the tweeters from the alpine crossover and give the component set one single amplified wire pair for each door. This will ensure the mid and the tweeter are delivering proportional output levels. You wouldn't want the tweeter receiving only half the power level of the cone, relying on the old Monsoon amp. You can use the other two channels to drive the sail panel mid-bass, or the rear fill speakers.

There are lots of good affordable full range class D amps that can do what you want in the 75 W/channel@4 ohm range. I have one of these, can be had for about $150:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ries/GM-D9500F

You might also consider a 5 channel amp to drive your sub as well. Class D will give you the most efficiency and smallest physical footprint for the power delivered. You can mount the amp with the spare tire, stealthy and easy installation. Nice write-up here:

http://www.banddirector.cz28.com/photo3.html

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

That Pioneer looks pretty good, is that something I could mount under my seat or do I need to give it more room for cooling? I don't have a sub currently, and I dont' believe I have the Monsoon amp either. But thinking about it, it does make sense to just run all the speakers off of new wiring and not worry about the stock wiring at all.

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

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Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Got a line on a Crossfire xp6004 amp, anyone have experience with these? Sounds like a decent brand from some reviews, but would like to hear from others who have used it.

DOUBLEDMODS

iTrader: (3)

Arc Audio KS125.4 mini
These are very nice amps
I also have instock the JL HD 600/4

5 channel
Kenwood XR5S
Massive NX5
Jl Xd 700/5

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Update: I have all the speaker wiring run save for the RCA cables. Kickers have come in finally and will be installed tomorrow. I had the car at the exhaust shop last week so I haven't had any time to get anything else done.

I was thinking about how little space is behind the HU, will I need to run 90 degree bend RCA's? I already have one pair, but the second set that came with my amp install kit are just standard straight end cables.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

I think you'll be ok with straight RCA's. I didn't have any problems. Make sure you run them on the opposite side of the car than the power wire.

Capricio

I started out with straight RCA terminations, and they worked, but they pressed so hard against the defrost duct that I had to put pressure against the face of the HU just to get the mounting screws started. I ended up adding some 90 degree RCA adapters later on and they helped quite a bit. The HU doesn't feel like it's sprung anymore when I unscrew the front panel.