rickeagle

That is my next step, changing out the flasher module with the version with the ground wire. I'll see how that works out soon.

What modules did you use for both? Links?

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Here is my thread. I went with what VIP posted in post #6

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...l#post19110371

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

voltage = current x resistance { known as ohm's law, V=IR }
wattage = voltage x current.

system voltage max is 14.5 volts, consider 13.0 volts the minumum

at 12.0 volts, current through your 6 ohm resistor is 2.0 amps.
at 13.0 volts, current through your 6 ohm resistor is 2.167 amps.
at 14.15 volts, current current through your 6 ohm resistor is 2.416 amps.

at 12.0 volts the wattage is 24 watts, but system voltage is never this low.
the wattage your resistors need to dissipate is between 28 and 35 watts, but they are only rated for 25 watts. you really should be using the 50w rated power resistors if you do it this way

Not sure you need to simulate the light bulbs and use such a low resistance, which is also known as a power resistor and they do get hot their metal shell bodies should be mounted against metal as a heat sink.

the most common and inexpensive are the 1/2 watt resistors (from radio shack). for 14.5 volts staying below 0.5 watts means current has to be below 0.034 amps and for that you would need a resistor > 420 ohms, the most common to buy are a five pack of 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistors for $1.49.

for every one that you change to an LED and then find that the cruise control doesn't work, does removing all the bulbs result in the same problem?
And if you use all LED's except for one where you use an oem incandescant bulb, does that fix the problem?

rickeagle

Did you install LED bulbs or an aftermarket taillight with integrated LEDs?

Thanks....

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The first part of your analysis is correct - the common resistor used for load equalizing an LED bulb is a 6 ohm 50 watt.

The problem with the second part is that you're analyzing for inline power resistors as you would do when installing basic LEDs. In this case he is either using LED bulbs (e.g. 3157 replacement style) or a lamp with LEDs built in. In either case they have their own driver circuitry that is designed to use the full 12V electrical system input rather than the reduced voltage an inline power resistor creates. That's why load equalizing resistors are meant to be installed in parallel with the bulbs... the voltage to the LED bulb or lamp isn't reduced.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

I realize what they are calling a load equalizing resistor gets connected in parallel,
When I suggest a 470 ohm half watt resistor be used instead I mean for it to be connected with the tail lamp assembly in parallel, and not as an inline current limiting resistor.
I'm not sure why the oem tail light bulbs need to be simulated,
and is the premise that a load resistor has to be used on both the left & right tail lamp?
i would think you would only need to do one side, if you needed to do both sides with a load resistor for LED lamps then is that implying for the oem bulbs that if one tail light bulb goes out that your cruise control would not work?
I'm sort of curious as to what is happening electrically with the LED lamps causing the problems that were described.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It is my understanding that only the 3rd brake light needs to show a load for the cruise to work. You should be able to replace the other lights without affecting cruise control.

rickeagle

I just discovered something interesting; I lost cruise control again and immediately checked out my taillights. I found the passenger brake light out.
Bought new bulbs and changed out the defective one and did a test drive. Cruise is functioning again.
Afterwards, I went to change out the driver's side (just because I had a new bulb) and found I had left the LED bulb in the driver's side taillight.

Tells me that the load to keep the cruise working only needs to be for one bulb.

Thoughts?

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Get the no load flasher and save yourself the headache.

rickeagle

Already have the LED flasher module with ground wire. That does not make cruise work with LED taillights as the signal and brake/tail lights are not the same.

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

My cruise control works fine after swapping the OEM flashers with the no load flashers I purchased based on the link I provided. I changed out both flashers (hazard and turn signals). I have LED's in the front, rear turns and rear brake lights. Essentially all external lighting and internal lights are LED's.

Everything works just the same as having incandescent bulbs.

I will note that not all LED's are created equal. Some are cheaper than other. I am using LED's from Diode Dynamics.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Even your third brake light in the hatch?


Presumably cheaper LED's (that consume higher levels or power for the same light output) would have less of a cruise control problem...

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

Yes the third brake light on the spoiler works just fine. So does the cruise control. That was one of the first things I tested when I swapped everything out.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

No, - Did you also put LED's in that lamp?

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

In what lamp? The third brake light on the spoiler? The third brake light on an SS is already an LED light from the factory. The Z28 has the incandescent bulb in it's third brake light.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This is why your cruise control still works. Even though your SS spoiler may have a LED in it, that unit is '90s technology. Those old LEDs (and the unit they are a part of) likely draw enough current to make the cruise control happy. (LED's back in the day required much more power to achieve the brightness required for a stop lamp than modern LED's do.)

VIP1

Actually, No. The LEDs in the SS still draw very little power. The style of LEDs in that spoiler don't draw that much more or less compared to most current LED string style 3rd brake lights of similar style/appearance. However, many newer 3rd brake lights use fewer brighter LEDs that draw more power each, not less (but there are fewer of them).

Something else is probably in circuit (resistors) to increase load or the fact that there is so many of them and the way they are wired (series and parallel strings) or a driver yields sufficient load. I haven't taken one apart so I don't know which.

bgw70

iTrader: (1)

here is a pic of power resistors.

SomDay

This was not the case on my car. All the bulbs were standards except only the brake lights had been changed to LED. I did have a clutch switch code so I adjusted that first to make sure it wasn't locking out the cruise. After fixing the clutch switch still no cruise. I picked up some standard bulbs and replaced the LED brake lights with standard bulbs and my cruise worked.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That may be because your car is an SS which already has LEDs in the third brake light. That would mean the entire brake light system was left with essentially no load. On other models of Camaro, it seems that replacing all except the third brake light works fine. Certainly on my Trans Am I was able to replace all of the main taillight bulbs with LEDs (for sequential turn signal use) without affecting my cruise control.