Thinking about re-foaming my Old School JL W6V1 10 inch... worth it?
10-11-2012, 12:59 AM
#1
Thinking about re-foaming my Old School JL W6V1 10 inch... worth it? Several days ago, I got a brand new Alpine type 3 1043D sub in my 2000 Z28 Camaro. I thought that it would blow my VERY old 10 inch JLW6V1 out of the water, but it just doesn't sound as good.
I'm not sure if it was installed incorrectly, but the W6 seemed to fill my car with base unlike the Alpine. In order to get it to hit about the same as the W6, I needed to set the "sub woofer"seeting to max, had to turn on the "Bass Boost" on my ipod, and turn the bass all the way up on my bass ***... and sadly, it still doesn't hit quite the same. The guy that installed it told me that it's a different kind of sub and that while it may not fill the car with bass as my old sub, the bass that it produces is cleaner.
With all this power going into the sub, my lights flicker... something that never happened with my W6, even when I turned it all the way up. So now I have to invest more time and money doing the BIG three, might need to get a cap, or even get a better alternator... I already have an orbital battery. The guy also told me that the JL was more efficient, thus it needed less power compared to the Alpine. This I get, but I still don't feel that it explains the big difference in bass. Needless to say, I'm definitely missing my old sub. I've even thought about getting it re-foamed.
I would hate to return the Alpine, but luckily, it's an option.
What do you guys say? Would it be a step backwards re-foaming the W6 and putting it back in my car?
Here are the specs on both:
JL W6V1 10 inch
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mf...pdf?1317790304
Alpine Type R 1043D
•Sensitivity: 83 dB
•RMS Power Range : 600 Watts
•Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts
•Impedance: 4 Ohm
•Frequency response: 23-400 Hz
•Diameter: 10 Inch
•Shallow Mount: No
•Number of Voice Coils: Dual
•Suggested Sealed Box Volume: .75 Cubic ft.
•Suggested Ported Box Volume: 1.2 Cubic ft.
•Mounting Depth: 6 Inches
I'm not sure if it was installed incorrectly, but the W6 seemed to fill my car with base unlike the Alpine. In order to get it to hit about the same as the W6, I needed to set the "sub woofer"seeting to max, had to turn on the "Bass Boost" on my ipod, and turn the bass all the way up on my bass ***... and sadly, it still doesn't hit quite the same. The guy that installed it told me that it's a different kind of sub and that while it may not fill the car with bass as my old sub, the bass that it produces is cleaner.
With all this power going into the sub, my lights flicker... something that never happened with my W6, even when I turned it all the way up. So now I have to invest more time and money doing the BIG three, might need to get a cap, or even get a better alternator... I already have an orbital battery. The guy also told me that the JL was more efficient, thus it needed less power compared to the Alpine. This I get, but I still don't feel that it explains the big difference in bass. Needless to say, I'm definitely missing my old sub. I've even thought about getting it re-foamed.
I would hate to return the Alpine, but luckily, it's an option.
What do you guys say? Would it be a step backwards re-foaming the W6 and putting it back in my car?
Here are the specs on both:
JL W6V1 10 inch
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mf...pdf?1317790304
Alpine Type R 1043D
•Sensitivity: 83 dB
•RMS Power Range : 600 Watts
•Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts
•Impedance: 4 Ohm
•Frequency response: 23-400 Hz
•Diameter: 10 Inch
•Shallow Mount: No
•Number of Voice Coils: Dual
•Suggested Sealed Box Volume: .75 Cubic ft.
•Suggested Ported Box Volume: 1.2 Cubic ft.
•Mounting Depth: 6 Inches
10-12-2012, 01:39 AM
#2
I'm inclined to think the sub is either not wired correctly or you have some cross-over setting set wrong. What amplifer do you have, can it handle 2 ohm loads?
If it can then wire the alpine sub for a 2ohms (it's in you owners manual).
IMO, triple checked the X-over setting and sub wiring and made sure it's all correct.
If it can then wire the alpine sub for a 2ohms (it's in you owners manual).
IMO, triple checked the X-over setting and sub wiring and made sure it's all correct.
10-12-2012, 07:17 PM
#3
I'm inclined to think the sub is either not wired correctly or you have some cross-over setting set wrong. What amplifer do you have, can it handle 2 ohm loads?
If it can then wire the alpine sub for a 2ohms (it's in you owners manual).
IMO, triple checked the X-over setting and sub wiring and made sure it's all correct.
If it can then wire the alpine sub for a 2ohms (it's in you owners manual).
IMO, triple checked the X-over setting and sub wiring and made sure it's all correct.
MB Quart ONX1.1000D.
•ONYX Series Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier
•RMS Power Rating: ◦4 ohms: 475 watts x 1 chan.
◦2 ohms: 750 watts x 1 chan.
◦1 ohm: 1000 watts x 1 chan.
10-15-2012, 10:01 AM
#4
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how is the alpine sub wired? It has a dual voice coil of 4ohm each and could be wired in series to make 8ohm effectively lowering the power output of the amp hence the need to crank the bass boost up so high.. You can check it with an ohm meter.. As for re-foam thats cheap to do (DIY) and if you feal the old sub was better, then just do it lol...
Foam kit (non-sponsor link removed)
Foam kit (non-sponsor link removed)
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 10-15-2012 at 11:58 AM.
