04-29-2016, 05:37 PM
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See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Camaro and Firebird Why Aren't Dash Lights Working Properly<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
- Camaro and Firebird Why Aren't Brake Lights Turn Signals Working<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
no dash lights, tail lights or brake lights
03-15-2016, 08:31 PM
#21
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Dash, tail and brakelight problems I have a 99 Trans am with LS1. Headlights, turn signals and reverse lights work but have no dash, tail or brake lights. I've read through the thread that was originally started by Batman and have checked the fuses in the car and under the hood. Replaced the flashers bought a new head light switch and have disconnected and cleaned all of the ground points under the hood and tail lights. I also tried the jumper on the switch and got the dash and tails to come on but no breaks. Been trying to trace wires but haven't found anything yet, Is there any other fuses that I'm missing? Car was sitting for a bit and had a dead battery but replaced with a new one.
03-16-2016, 08:01 AM
#22
First, have you actually tested the fuses? Fuses (especially 17-year-old ones) can look fine but still be blown. Never rely on a visual inspection - always use a fuse tester or replace with a known good fuse. And don't make the mistake of checking for voltage with the fuse plugged in. One side of the fuse (the feed side) will always have power so you have a 50/50 chance of seeing power even if the fuse is blown. If you're using a meter or test light with the fuse plugged in, make sure you have voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse. Otherwise, pull the fuse and use the meter to check continuity between the legs. Or get a fuse tester - they're usually included when you buy a package of multiple fuses.
I'd be willing to bet that your #5 TAIL LPS and #1 STOP/HAZARD fuses are blown. It's the simplest explanation that fits all the symptoms.
If you replace the fuses and still have the problem, we need to start diagnosing using a test light or multimeter. Let's start with the tail lights. Turn on your parking lights and use your meter or test light to check for power on the brown wire at the tail light sockets. I'm going to assume you won't find power since you have a fresh fuse and the lights still don't work. If you did find power then the problem is either burned out bulbs or a bad ground.
So now we move farther up the circuit. Pull the headlight switch but leave it plugged in. Check for power on the orange wire. If no power then you're back to the fuse again... maybe there's a short that causes it to blow when you replace it. If you have power then turn the switch to the P position and see if you have power on the brown wire. If not then the switch is bad. If there is power then you have a break in the wiring between the switch and the tail lights.
A similar process can be used to diagnose the brake lights. Start by checking for power on the dark green wire (right side) or yellow wire (left side) at the tail lights. Then move up to the brake switch on the pedal bracket... check for input power on the orange wire and output power on the light blue wire when the pedal is pressed.
I'd be willing to bet that your #5 TAIL LPS and #1 STOP/HAZARD fuses are blown. It's the simplest explanation that fits all the symptoms.
If you replace the fuses and still have the problem, we need to start diagnosing using a test light or multimeter. Let's start with the tail lights. Turn on your parking lights and use your meter or test light to check for power on the brown wire at the tail light sockets. I'm going to assume you won't find power since you have a fresh fuse and the lights still don't work. If you did find power then the problem is either burned out bulbs or a bad ground.
So now we move farther up the circuit. Pull the headlight switch but leave it plugged in. Check for power on the orange wire. If no power then you're back to the fuse again... maybe there's a short that causes it to blow when you replace it. If you have power then turn the switch to the P position and see if you have power on the brown wire. If not then the switch is bad. If there is power then you have a break in the wiring between the switch and the tail lights.
A similar process can be used to diagnose the brake lights. Start by checking for power on the dark green wire (right side) or yellow wire (left side) at the tail lights. Then move up to the brake switch on the pedal bracket... check for input power on the orange wire and output power on the light blue wire when the pedal is pressed.
12-17-2016, 08:12 AM
#23
I am having this same issue currently with my 95 TA. All fuses are good and replaced anyway. Power to the switch and hung test with a known good from my 02 TA. I still have no tail lights, dash lights or marker lights. Courtesy lights work, brake lights, turn signals, 4 ways, low and high beam all work. I have checked the dash grounds and they are good too.
12-17-2016, 01:26 PM
#24
Well After pulling the IP fuse and jumping it to the battery constant the dash and interior lights worked. I am seeing 30 ohms of resistance from the IP fuse input and the taillamps circuit. So now I need to find the short to the junction block in the engine bay.
04-03-2017, 09:15 PM
#26
for those that may encounter this in the future, twice now it has happened to me ... for me it was no rear lights (brake lights worked), no dash lights, & no drl's & fog lights. both times it was a dirty fog light bulb (bulb barely touching somewhere inside the housing & getting a small smudge or amount of dirt on it) & that causing the tail/lps (fuse 5) to blow ... and BOTH times the fuse LOOKING perfectly fine (this is where your fuse checker/voltmeter comes in handy!).
06-01-2018, 05:34 PM
#27
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Where is the 40 maxi fuse located picture please 1996 camero rs Check the TAIL LPS fuse again. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - it could be blown but still look fine. Always use a tester or replace with a known good fuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
06-04-2018, 08:54 AM
#28
There is no maxi-fuse in a 96 Camaro. The LT1 style Camaros used fusible links to protect various circuits. Those are the extra wires connected to the battery positive terminal. The headlight circuit is protected by fusible link Z which is one of the red ones. Look for a short piece of red wire at the battery that looks like it has melted if you think the fusible link is the problem.
