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See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Camaro and Firebird Why Aren't Dash Lights Working Properly<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
- Camaro and Firebird Why Aren't Brake Lights Turn Signals Working<br>Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
no dash lights, tail lights or brake lights
10-15-2012, 09:33 AM
#1
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no dash lights, tail lights or brake lights What's up guys hopefully someone can help me I was at the store lastnight and when I got back to my car I had no dash lights, tail lights or brake lights all fuses are good that go to these components I'm not to electrical Cevey at all so any info will help as far as what to check thanks
10-15-2012, 11:07 AM
#2
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What's up guys hopefully someone can help me I was at the store lastnight and when I got back to my car I had no dash lights, tail lights or brake lights all fuses are good that go to these components I'm not to electrical Cevey at all so any info will help as far as what to check thanks
10-15-2012, 11:47 AM
#3
Check the TAIL LPS fuse again. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - it could be blown but still look fine. Always use a tester or replace with a known good fuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
10-15-2012, 12:50 PM
#4
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Check the TAIL LPS fuse again. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - it could be blown but still look fine. Always use a tester or replace with a known good fuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
iv checked all fuses with a tester and all are good including the ones under the hood any other ideas as to what it can be?
10-15-2012, 09:53 PM
#6
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Check the TAIL LPS fuse again. Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - it could be blown but still look fine. Always use a tester or replace with a known good fuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
There is no fusible link before the headlight switch. The switch is fed through the instrument panel fuse box which is fed through the IP-2 40-amp maxifuse in junction block 2 on the left fenderwell under the hood. If there is no power at the IP fuse box then the next thing to check would be that 40-amp maxifuse.
10-16-2012, 06:22 AM
#7
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Ok yeah I switched out the headlight switch and dimmer switch with my other trans am and it still did the same thing the only thing that works are my turn signals but no hazards
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10-16-2012, 08:25 AM
#8
You are partially correct. All '98 through '02 Firebirds have the same wiring for lighting (wiring in '98-'02 Camaros is all the same but not the same as Firebirds). That includes a fusible link for the headlights. However, the OP asked about dash and tail lights - not the headlights - so the fusible link does not come into play.
10-16-2012, 08:28 AM
#9
You also mentioned brake lights which are a completely separate circuit. Do the headlights work? Do the DRLs work? Do the headlights pop up?
Do you have a test light or multimeter? You should be testing for power at the fuse panel and at the headlight switch inputs.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 10-16-2012 at 08:41 AM.
10-16-2012, 10:19 AM
#10
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When I turn the head lights on (which do work hi/low beams) my dash lights don't come on nor my parking lights.. my brake lights don't work and my hazards.. the only lights that work are my blinkers reverse lights and head lights I've checked every fuse on the side of the dash and under the hood there all good is there a relay I can check cause that's the only thing I havent checked is relays just because Idk which one it could be
Yes I have a multi meter should every fuse read 12 volts or is there a schematic to tell me how many volts should all be pushing out
Yes I have a multi meter should every fuse read 12 volts or is there a schematic to tell me how many volts should all be pushing out
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 10-16-2012 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
10-16-2012, 10:57 AM
#12
When I turn the head lights on (which do work hi/low beams) my dash lights don't come on nor my parking lights.. my brake lights don't work and my hazards.. the only lights that work are my blinkers reverse lights and head lights I've checked every fuse on the side of the dash and under the hood there all good is there a relay I can check cause that's the only thing I havent checked is relays just because Idk which one it could be
So you will have to start tracing each separately. Check that there is power on the orange wire on terminal H at the headlight switch. Then turn on the switch and test for output power on the brown wire on terminal C. That will determine if the headlight switch is working. Similar testing will be necessary for brake lights and hazard flashers.
10-16-2012, 11:25 AM
#13
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Just the wires I can get to they all have power untill it gets to the actual tail lights I'm gonna have to start back tracking from there I guess ill post up when find out the prob thanks man I appreciate it
O yeah and all fuses are around 12v
O yeah and all fuses are around 12v
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 10-16-2012 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
07-15-2013, 05:53 PM
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I had the exact problem and I can provide a (my) fix and a possible root cause:
I had a family member who is painfully far more automotive electric savvy than I am review the F-Body electrical schematics and test the wiring and fuses with a multi-meter. No blown fuses, no worn or disconnected wires were found. We also disconnected the after-market radio to look for faulty wiring. Nothing was found.
The schematic showed that "orange" feeds the headlight switch with power and the "brown" feeds the tail lights. No power was found coming from the brown wire after testing.
Solution: "Jump" the headlight switch: Bridge the RED power wire to the brown wire at the headlight switch - by shoving another 3 inch electrical wire into the respective slots at the back of the headlight switch - providing adequate power to the tail lights. Dash, hazard, and daylight running lights came back with no issues.
Possible root cause: A bad Body Control Modual -or- a problem with the factory alarm. Both are on the same circuit and may be the culprit causing a short to the tail lights. I won't know until I'm ready to pay the dealer 65 dollars an hour to put the BCM on the proper meter to test. In the meantime, all is well.
Please note, the headlight switch was exchanged 1st. After confirming that a new headlight switch didn't fix the problem, I ventured to guess that the brake switch was bad. No need to travel down that road.
Disclaimer: I would STRONGLY suggest that the headlight, dash, taillight, schematic for your F-body is consulted and a multi-meter is used to test the power coming from the wires of your headlight switch BEFORE applying this fix to confirm.
I hope this helps others.
By the way, I own a 1999 Camaro SS. Original owner, 114,000 miles.
I had a family member who is painfully far more automotive electric savvy than I am review the F-Body electrical schematics and test the wiring and fuses with a multi-meter. No blown fuses, no worn or disconnected wires were found. We also disconnected the after-market radio to look for faulty wiring. Nothing was found.
The schematic showed that "orange" feeds the headlight switch with power and the "brown" feeds the tail lights. No power was found coming from the brown wire after testing.
Solution: "Jump" the headlight switch: Bridge the RED power wire to the brown wire at the headlight switch - by shoving another 3 inch electrical wire into the respective slots at the back of the headlight switch - providing adequate power to the tail lights. Dash, hazard, and daylight running lights came back with no issues.
Possible root cause: A bad Body Control Modual -or- a problem with the factory alarm. Both are on the same circuit and may be the culprit causing a short to the tail lights. I won't know until I'm ready to pay the dealer 65 dollars an hour to put the BCM on the proper meter to test. In the meantime, all is well.
Please note, the headlight switch was exchanged 1st. After confirming that a new headlight switch didn't fix the problem, I ventured to guess that the brake switch was bad. No need to travel down that road.
Disclaimer: I would STRONGLY suggest that the headlight, dash, taillight, schematic for your F-body is consulted and a multi-meter is used to test the power coming from the wires of your headlight switch BEFORE applying this fix to confirm.
I hope this helps others.
By the way, I own a 1999 Camaro SS. Original owner, 114,000 miles.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 07-15-2013 at 05:55 PM. Reason: Merge consecutive posts
07-15-2013, 06:04 PM
#18
Sorry, but I have a couple of problems with your explanation that perhaps you could clarify.
1. If you have power going into the headlight switch on both the orange (tail lights) and red (headlight) power wires but you have no power coming out of the switch on the brown wire, isn't it rather obvious that the switch is bad? Note, there is an internal fuse for the headlight circuit inside the switch that could account for why a second switch also failed - you still probably have a short somewhere that is bad enough to blow the internal fuse but not enough to melt the heavy jumper wire you installed.
2. There are two red wires going to the headlight switch in a Camaro. You must have lucked out and used the one from the DRL module (for the automatic headlights) - otherwise your lights would be on all the time because the other red wire comes straight from the battery.
I would go back and find out how hot your jumper wire is getting (because it's still flowing too much current due to a short somewhere), find and fix the short that caused the original problem, then replace the headlight switch again to get rid of the dangerous jumper wire. Otherwise, you may come out one day to find your car a smoldering heap.
1. If you have power going into the headlight switch on both the orange (tail lights) and red (headlight) power wires but you have no power coming out of the switch on the brown wire, isn't it rather obvious that the switch is bad? Note, there is an internal fuse for the headlight circuit inside the switch that could account for why a second switch also failed - you still probably have a short somewhere that is bad enough to blow the internal fuse but not enough to melt the heavy jumper wire you installed.
2. There are two red wires going to the headlight switch in a Camaro. You must have lucked out and used the one from the DRL module (for the automatic headlights) - otherwise your lights would be on all the time because the other red wire comes straight from the battery.
I would go back and find out how hot your jumper wire is getting (because it's still flowing too much current due to a short somewhere), find and fix the short that caused the original problem, then replace the headlight switch again to get rid of the dangerous jumper wire. Otherwise, you may come out one day to find your car a smoldering heap.
03-14-2016, 07:05 PM
#19
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Dash, tail and brakelight problems I'm having the same issue and no luck. Replaced headlight switch and flashers checked all my ground points and fuses and still nothing. Where u able to figure out the problem?
Last edited by BLACKFIRE99; 03-14-2016 at 07:12 PM.
03-15-2016, 06:58 AM
#20
batman_ls1 has not been on this forum since 2014 so I doubt he will answer.
Perhaps you could describe in detail the symptoms you have and what you've done so far to diagnose it. Start with make and model of car. Then we'll see if we can't give you some pointers on where to look and what might be causing the problem.
Perhaps you could describe in detail the symptoms you have and what you've done so far to diagnose it. Start with make and model of car. Then we'll see if we can't give you some pointers on where to look and what might be causing the problem.