Starter/Battery issues
11-19-2012, 02:56 PM
#1
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Starter/Battery issues Hello, I have a 2002 Camaro LS1 59k, I replaced the stock starter 07/12 and yesterday replaced the factory battery as it was extremely tired and wouldn't start the car in cold weather.
I replaced it with an Optima red-top, installed it yesterday, had to jump the car figuring the battery just wasn't charged, and after a short drive the car started fine. I do delivery with the car, and through an 8 hr shift, the car started and held a charge fine.
This morning I went out to the car, tried starting it, and all I got was one click from the starter. No luck in starting, pop started it, drove to warm the car up and see if the battery had drained over-night went into a parking lot, turned off the car, then tried to start it, and it started.
So I went back home, car was at operating temp, went inside for a minute to grab a few things, came back outside, tried starting and all I got was one click again. So after pop-starting and driving for 30 min, I tried again, and all I got was just one click. With the ignition on car not running, I can run the wipers, interior fan, rear-defogger, radio, and hazard lights, and the car will hold a constant voltage, so that was my way of seeing if the battery was dead, which it doesn't seem to be.
When I turn the key, all the systems shut down like normal. I can hear the fuel pump prime, I'm not sure what to do right now. Like I said, I replaced the starter with an MSD starter : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5096
Prior to the cold weather, I never had any issues with the old battery, but when I replaced it, it seems now my starter has kicked the bucket.
I'm really strapped for cash, and I don't know what to do at this point, the car is for sale as it is seeing I can't afford the payments or insurance after losing my previous job, and I really can't bring it in to a shop for diagnosis.
Any help or ideas is appreciated!
I replaced it with an Optima red-top, installed it yesterday, had to jump the car figuring the battery just wasn't charged, and after a short drive the car started fine. I do delivery with the car, and through an 8 hr shift, the car started and held a charge fine.
This morning I went out to the car, tried starting it, and all I got was one click from the starter. No luck in starting, pop started it, drove to warm the car up and see if the battery had drained over-night went into a parking lot, turned off the car, then tried to start it, and it started.
So I went back home, car was at operating temp, went inside for a minute to grab a few things, came back outside, tried starting and all I got was one click again. So after pop-starting and driving for 30 min, I tried again, and all I got was just one click. With the ignition on car not running, I can run the wipers, interior fan, rear-defogger, radio, and hazard lights, and the car will hold a constant voltage, so that was my way of seeing if the battery was dead, which it doesn't seem to be.
When I turn the key, all the systems shut down like normal. I can hear the fuel pump prime, I'm not sure what to do right now. Like I said, I replaced the starter with an MSD starter : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5096
Prior to the cold weather, I never had any issues with the old battery, but when I replaced it, it seems now my starter has kicked the bucket.
I'm really strapped for cash, and I don't know what to do at this point, the car is for sale as it is seeing I can't afford the payments or insurance after losing my previous job, and I really can't bring it in to a shop for diagnosis.
Any help or ideas is appreciated!
11-19-2012, 03:29 PM
#2
How many volts while driving around? Take a multimeter and check the voltage on the battery with the engine off after you've driven it around. It should be around 12.6v. Let it sit for a while (overnight should do it) and check the voltage again before driving it. If it drops below 12v, the battery has a dead cell and is bad. And yes, it's possible for a new battery to have a dead cell.
11-19-2012, 03:45 PM
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While driving around, the voltage on the dash is displaying the normal 12.6v, when its off the voltage drops a little but its right around 12v.
When I was doing the deliveries last night, the interior lights were left on, as were the actual headlights and hazards. When I got into the car, its started up without hesitation. Thats why it shocked me to come out to a dead car this morning.
When I was doing the deliveries last night, the interior lights were left on, as were the actual headlights and hazards. When I got into the car, its started up without hesitation. Thats why it shocked me to come out to a dead car this morning.
11-20-2012, 08:20 AM
#4
It seems that you have a battery charging issue. If your alternator is indeed good, then you may just have a loose wire or corrosion in in the battery wires.
11-20-2012, 01:40 PM
#5
The alternator should be giving you more than 13v when charging. 14v is ideal. The meter on the dash is accurate enough to check this for basic battery operation.
Besides that it sounds like your contact with the battery isn't great. You'd be surprised how much power you can get with dirty or loose connections however once you have a bigger load (starter) the bottom falls out.
Besides that it sounds like your contact with the battery isn't great. You'd be surprised how much power you can get with dirty or loose connections however once you have a bigger load (starter) the bottom falls out.
11-26-2012, 03:17 PM
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I'm sorta going through same thing now. My car has an after market Autopage system and a hi power stereo system, and a smaller under drive pulley. Anyway, I normally just drive it on weekends, and the other day car wouldn't start, jumped it thinking maybe I just don't do enough normal driving and drove about 15 mins, volts looked decent on dash, then went to store, and then tried to start and everything works like you said but not enough juice to turn over engine. Jumped it again, started right up, bought a Optima yellow top and ran perfect for 3 weeks. Now it did it again!?!
I will be installing a powerbastards high output alternator very soon (when I have the time). I'm thinking the lack of driving, the smaller pulley and the stereo is not allowing new battery to be fully charged and the orig stock alternator is failing. Other than that, I have no idea what is draining my power but I'm seriously just thinking about keeping a charger on it before I drive it!
I will be installing a powerbastards high output alternator very soon (when I have the time). I'm thinking the lack of driving, the smaller pulley and the stereo is not allowing new battery to be fully charged and the orig stock alternator is failing. Other than that, I have no idea what is draining my power but I'm seriously just thinking about keeping a charger on it before I drive it!
11-27-2012, 10:28 PM
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well, I used to think my autopage was causing my security light, now I'm worried if the ignition switch is going bad since it has happened a couple of times with no rhyme or reason. I'm gonna do the VATS system mod with a resistor and take that out of the equation. I googled VATS Ls1 bypass and there is a good description there. I'm also gonna hide a kill switch for a backup!
