BoricuaHec01

I recently installed a aftermarket HU (Alpine CDE 143-BT) but don't want to stop there. I want to keep my speakers stock for the time being so just want to move up to sub/amp and I will be doing the install myself. I saw write ups and vids for it, looks pretty straight forward.

I decided to go with a 10" Alpine Type R SWR 10D2 sub with stealth box, Alpine MRV-M500 mono amp and DB Link 4 gauge install kit (power, ground, remote, RCA, speaker wires). Am I in the right track?

My question: I'm assuming I'm getting the 2 ohms sub for most power unless otherwise? The sub is a DVC so would I need to bridge it? If so, do I need to get an extra kit for the bridge wire since amp install kit doesn't have it? And for the amp wire kit, does it matter which one I get as long as it's 4 gauge? Thanks in advance and other suggestions is also appreciated.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

amp wire kits, yes it DEFINITELY matters what kit you buy, see attached pics (red/blue is KnuKonceptz 1/0 vs InstallBay 1/0, knukonceptz is the red one) also if you get a dual 2 ohm sub then it will either be run at 1 ohm or 4 ohm depending on how you wire it so if you do that then make sire the amp is 1 ohm stable bridged.

the problem is there is no real regulation in stereo application wiring like there are in other wiring this is why many choose to run welding cable like what can be found here (non-sponsor link removed) as it is "true gauge".

on amp kits you also want to watch out for CCA (copper clad aluminum) this is what the cheaper kits use and really is not rated for the kinds of temps seen under a car hood which effects it's voltage carrying capacity.

DamonZ28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for pointing out KnuKonceptz, Daniel. Their 4 guage kit is on Amazon for $26.99, which seems like a great deal. I'll probably be going that route when I order my amp.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

I bought the KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit from Amazon. Good kit that comes with nearly everything you need. I had to get a longer bolt for my battery since my terminal wouldn't allow multiple connections. But other than that top quality kit.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

the KCA kit from Knukonceptz is a copper clad aluminum, I would go up to there better kit thats about 50 bucks IIRC.

BoricuaHec01

I was going with this DB Link PK4Z 4 gauge kit from eBay for 20 bucks, legit? The KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit seems to be missing a blue remote power wire.

(non-sponsor link removed)

And aside from the wire kit, is the sub and amp that I selected a good layout for the setup?

DamonZ28

iTrader: (1)

Someone asked that question on the Amazon product page, and 7 people said it's actually between the RCA cables. Kinda neat feature, one less wire to have to run.

BoricuaHec01

Ya I went to their actual site and read that it's built in, will keep that into consideration. But if they're actually connected, would that be a problem with connection since the amp I want has the RCA connection on one side and the remote power on the other side?

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

They're connected in a way that you can "peel" them apart, like headphones or RCA cables.

BoricuaHec01

It would be easier to have all the connections on one side of the amp like yours but but the one I want has the RCA connection on other side so would that make it harder to peel apart to reach?

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Then just keep peeling them until you have enough slack. Maybe won't look "professional", but it works.

BoricuaHec01

I'm looking more into a clean look, might just end up getting the DB Links, they're head to head in comparison.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

the dblink (based on the pic I attached earlier) isn't a bad kit and it is all OFC (oxygen free copper) which is what you want for your wiring unlike the cheap (27 dollar) knukonceptz kit, but the stand count and actual amount of real wire is still less the the knukonceptz which for the record is less the Monster Cable 4 gauge (I've held the 2 side by side). if you get the better OFC kit from knukoncepts the remote wire is separate and most importantly it is OFC wire.

that said you can still easily hide the wire from the remote that is attached to the rca's under your carpet when installing.

BoricuaHec01

DB Links it is.

BoricuaHec01

Np. 20 bucks, can't go wrong with that.

a.anaya480

I scanned through this real quick and I have a quick question do you have light flickering issues? If you do it will only get worse as most flicker bad enough with the stock alternator if you plan on having that system chances are youll want to upgrade the alternator first then the big 3
as for cca wires theyll work fine with that setup you wont be any where near the 300Amps (plus or minus) rating I have the knuconceptz 0 gauge cca works just fine long as your electrical (alternator) can keep up
If you dont believe me make some calls

BoricuaHec01

No flickering issue on my end, I should be fine. I had a 2 12" and amp set up in my old Camaro with a shitting alternator and worked fine.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

yeah but where talking 4 gauge which is much less wire (hence a much lower amp rating), the knukonceptz 4 gauge OFC is rated at 150 amps (100 for the CCA), probably not a concern for this setup but just putting it out there.

Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

OP said he might be upgrading his speakers soon so that might call for a four channel amp. The sub amp he's chosen has two 30 amp fuses so its not exceeding 60 amps. Therefore, by going with the OFC he has 90 amps to use if he chooses to purchase another amp. However, 150 amps is a lot to draw off the stock 105 amp alternator so yes an upgraded alternator and big three would be needed.

BoricuaHec01

To be honest I'm going to stay with stock speakers for a very long time. The kit I'm choosing has a 60 amp fuse, I should be fine.