Spahny72

Ok so I need some help from you guys. I have a 98 trans am with aftermarket stereo deck (car toys installed). My problem is my battery dies pretty damn quick. I charged the battery all night try to start it and if it doesn't turn over by the 2nd time its dead. I disconnected the negative and hooked up my multimeter and reads a 9.XX draw.

Long story short I followed all wires coming from the battery to starter and alternator took those completely out and I still have a huge draw. Went thru all the fuses and the test light never even blinked. Found out that when the car is off Ip1, Ignition, Ip2, and Engine Control fuses are drawing 3.XX per fuse (fuse box under the hood).

So im stumped for now and don't know if those should be pulling power while the car is off. When I get home from work ill keep following wires till that damn test light turns off. If you guys have heard of this problem or have any ideas let me know.

Thanks in advance
Corey

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Did you also get an aftermarket amp? There's special wire that's supposed to turn on the amp when the key is in the correct position and the stereo is on. Without that wire the amp could stay on indefinitely.

Spahny72

Stock amp. Would it still do that with a stock one?

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Monsoon amp turns on when it receives a signal from the radio, so shouldn't be that. Try disconnecting your HU and see if it still draws current.

Spahny72

HU= head unit I'm guessing?

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Correct.

Spahny72

No luck still dying! I took the horn out awhile ago cause it was broken would that be pulling a draw. Maybe not making the circuit complete?

N20zuki

If your charging the battery all night and only get 2 start attempts then it may have a bad cell and not holding the charge.

Turnerd89

if your car auto or manuel

Spahny72

Im sure the battery is toast I just don't want to buy a new one and toast that one too till I find where this draw is.

Car is a manual.

TA_Freak

I just went through all of this and long story short - my aftermarket amp was staying on due to the remote IN being hot even with the key off. If you disconnect and re-connect the negative terminal at the battery, do you hear the antenna motor run? That was my clue. The same 12v signal is the remote IN on the amp and the antenna 12v.

Also ... check the current draw ... My amp was drawing 720mA ... with the TA just sitting and not running. Let me know what your parasitic current draw is?

Spahny72

Ill double check when I get home but I think its up around 9.86. I have a stock amp but I can try and unplug that to see if that will work.

When I unplug my negative cable from the battery I can hear clicking coming from the headlights but it doesn't last long maybe 4 to 5 clicks and stops.

TA_Freak

9.86 sounds like the battery voltage unloaded. Can you measure the current? Disconnect the negative side on the battery and put the meter in 20 amp scale, connect one lead to the battery and the other meter lead to the negative cable. That puts your meter in series for checking the parasitic current draw. Normal would be something around .020 (20mA) or so. Mine was .720 (720mA!!)