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DIY pass window fix

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Old 04-27-2015, 06:24 PM
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When I go to AZ, they show me the old design for the ACI model:

Old 04-28-2015, 02:08 PM
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Ya it was the wrong one, I cant believe noone on here knows who makes that motor!
Old 04-28-2015, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by slowbrakiller
Ya it was the wrong one, I cant believe noone on here knows who makes that motor!
Well, we did until Dorman recently (evidently) dropped it.

The new motors, when they were carried as Duralasts and then later, as Dormans, didn't have any distinguishing markings as to who the manufacturer was.

They must still be out there. It's just a matter of finding what the brand du jour is for these things.
Old 04-28-2015, 03:49 PM
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Also very disappointing that Dorman is using the same p/n for both the new and legacy design.

Maybe you could try a smaller outfit and find some new old stock of the former Dorman offering: http://www.diypowerwindowrepair.com/...-Position.html
Old 04-28-2015, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by slowbrakiller
I cant believe noone on here knows who makes that motor!
Do you have a good contact at your local AZ who can call a corporate buyer and find out what happened. They first had the design as a Duralast and then switched over to the Dorman name. They must have someone at AZ corporate who knows who the private label manufacturer is for the motor.
Old 05-04-2015, 06:03 PM
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Why is the new design so much better ? Does it spread the load better by having a bigger "area" around the gear ?
Old 05-04-2015, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by EnergyCC
Why is the new design so much better ? Does it spread the load better by having a bigger "area" around the gear ?
The promo material that shipped with the motor when it was under the Duralast brand cited 100% new content of the part and that it was better sealed against dust and contaminants vs. the original design.
Old 05-04-2015, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
This is internet mythology. The story/myth goes that there is a voltage drop in the wiring to the motor. The flaw in that is that the motors from the factory worked fine and the problem pops up on both sides of the car. (The voltage measured at the two motors is also over 12V, so there's no technical issue there.)

The bypass will apply a slightly higher voltage to the motor, which makes a bad motor look better. You can also just fix the problem - which is really the crappy motor.

If you lookup the stock motor in a parts cross-reference, you'll find that it was installed on cars in the '60s. IMO - it really had no business in being on these 1990's cars in the first place.
Then why did the Autotrix kit work so well on my old car if the fault isn't in the wiring (at least partially)? My passenger window went from barely making it to the top to flying to the top faster than the nearly brand new motor on the driver side.

I don't disagree these old motor designs are likely pretty sad and shouldn't have been used.
Old 05-04-2015, 10:10 PM
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Wasn't there a thread about pulling the top of the motor apart and bridging the wiring? I remember someone posting that a few years back.
Old 05-04-2015, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
Then why did the Autotrix kit work so well on my old car if the fault isn't in the wiring (at least partially)?
Well, there is "bad" wiring, but its all in the motor. The motors can fail by a number of mechanisms. The bypass doesn't solve them all but will make some of the bad motors look better. The bypass (Autotrix) will give you a 1% increase in voltage to the motor. In many cases, that could be enough to get the motor "over the hump" to its regular performance. The thermal cutoff (common problem) is an analog/heat sensitive device, so if the part is on the borderline, I'd expect that 1% can be enough to take it back over.

The bottom line is that the cars were fine from the factory. The interior wiring doesn't suffer with age, but the motors do.


Originally Posted by Orange Juice
Wasn't there a thread about pulling the top of the motor apart and bridging the wiring? I remember someone posting that a few years back.
That's the bypass of the thermal cut-off. That device keeps the motor from over-stressing the door panel, so its a really important thing and protects from big repair$$$.
Old 05-14-2015, 10:12 PM
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Guessing no one ever found anything in regards to the new motors?
Old 05-19-2015, 12:09 PM
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Apparently not...
Old 05-21-2015, 08:44 AM
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Yeah I've gone through two new motors from the Chevy dealer in the past 2 years. I haven't installed a new one because I want to find a final good fix. Maybe regulator? maybe need a better motor?
Old 05-21-2015, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by KLaBZ28
maybe need a better motor?
This new motor, which we can no longer locate... was the solution.

The regulator is fine and pretty basic/durable.

A company called ElectricLife makes an aftermarket custom regulator/motor combo. I tired that a few years back and it was a COLOSSAL failure - worse than stock. The motors were wimpy, burned all the way out, and could not be replaced. The regulator also bolted in, and we all know how regulator bolts work out on these doors... (Fortunately, I dropped some coin on Nord-Lock washers for those bolts, which kept everything tight and saved my door panel.)
Old 05-21-2015, 01:51 PM
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dang that sucks. yeah I think my regulator is fine, ive been driving around with the motor removed and just manually slide the window up and down with my hand ghetto style..

proper.
Old 05-25-2015, 03:50 AM
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Man that really does suck then. I was really hoping to snag one of those new windows for my PS window in the Camaro.
Old 05-26-2015, 10:00 AM
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I took my burnt out one apart over the weekend, my motor was about a year old and looks brand new inside. The problem with these is the brushes wear out fast, so I rotated the brushes and expanded the springs so they contact better. We will see how long it lasts like that before they wear out and lose contact again.. I'll update when it re-burns out haha. Next try will be to upgrade the brushes.
Old 05-26-2015, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by KLaBZ28
I took my burnt out one apart over the weekend, my motor was about a year old and looks brand new inside. The problem with these is the brushes wear out fast, so I rotated the brushes and expanded the springs so they contact better. We will see how long it lasts like that before they wear out and lose contact again.. I'll update when it re-burns out haha. Next try will be to upgrade the brushes.
Does it work now?

Another common problem is the the thermal resistor. (A lot of remans seem to come with the original, which also leads to heartache.)
Old 05-27-2015, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
Does it work now?

Another common problem is the the thermal resistor. (A lot of remans seem to come with the original, which also leads to heartache.)
Yes it works with the brushes contacting now, just havent installed it yet. Waiting to have some time aside so i can pull my door lock cylinders out at the same time and respray them silver.. The worn out black is bothering me.



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