badhoopty

ok here it goes.

i was into car audio back around 92-95. back then i had 2 sets of soundstream 5.25" components and 2 12" soundstream subs, with a soundstream (forget the model, maybe a reference or rubicon) driving the components and a ppi a600 driving the subs with a pheonix gold x-over. it was a pretty basic setup but it was nice enough to cruise with.

i'm gonna start looking for some ppi art series amps off ebay, (i cant see how any amp made nowadays could be that much better), but as far as speakers and brands go i have no idea who makes the quality stuff nowadays and who makes garbage. i hear ppi isnt the same company anymore, just the name exists, and i've also heard fosgate got el-cheapo.

so if any of you guys could reco some quality brands that dont want 5bills for a component set could you list them? as far as subs go, i like the kicker square subs, but if they suck i'd like to know before i shell out money on 'em.

also, whats the lightest sound deadening available? i'd imagine by now more companies besides dynomat make the stuff, and hopefully for alot less.

thanks in advance. i've been researching, but sometimes its alot easier to ask on a board than it is to weed thru a ton of internet garbage.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I hear that, I was in the same boat as you about a year ago. The players from then, (Fosgate, PPI, Orion) kinda went downhill. I heard Fosgate's 2004 line kicks a$$ though. Heck, do what I did, and save some money, and go with some older, used, but proven amps:


I suggest for subs go see Elemental designs, or Adire Audio. Components: CDT Audio, or Morel.

badhoopty

dude that amp rack is sweet!! are there any sites that give how-to's on that kinda stuff?

unless i can find something better, i will definitely be getting some oldschool ppi art series amps. my old a600 simply rocked.

thanks for the info, i'll go check those brands out.

badhoopty

just checked out your webpage, very nice work. i dig the symmetry install. (i remember drooling over that but being far far too poor)

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I frequent this site alot: www.fbodyaudio.com , there are some great resources in the forums as well as the tech section. Also, you might want to check out www.carsound.com 's forums as well.

badhoopty

thx for the links.

how do those peerless speakers sound? the price is dang nice on them.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

They sound great, the only quibble I have with them is the 6.5" midbasses can't but out enough midbass to satisfy me... I've got 250w running into each, and they really jam, and are starting to choke on me. But they're only rated for something like 120 watts, so that's okay, i'll be upgrading to kicker RMB8"s in the front doors to solve my lacking midbass problem. As far as the 4" and tweeters go, I like them. Having an active crossover setup like this is good, because I can just buy raw drivers like this. I'm running 1400 watts RMS on the entire system:
100 x 2 = 1" tweeters in kicks (front ch of 800a4)
100 x 2 = 4" midranges in kicks (rear ch of 800a4)
250 x 2 = 6.5" midbasses in doors (250a2 bridged each door)
500 x 1 = 12" in hatch (250.1 running 2 Ohm)

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

Nice looking amp rack snootch! I'm currently making almost the same thing as we speak, only mine only has 3 fosgate amps and its a box as well with 1 12" MTX 9500. Running 4800 peak watts (926RMS to the sub). And then Ive got all infinty speakers, Pioneer premier 860MP, 5 farad cap, yellow top, 200 alternator (Custom, only cost $200), all 4 gauge wire with stinger accessories, audio control matrix line driver...the works basically. I might add another battery in the back, but Im not sure though. Be posting pics soon, but I never documented on how to make it. Its looking good though.

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

PPI makes good stuff, but all their engineers are at JL now, or so i hear. For the money, I believe fosgate is a nice choice. If i didnt but Fosgate though, id get MTX, JL, orion (really nice now), xtant, or maybe alpine. This is just my opinion. Any of these brands id consider high-end, with clean power, nice looks, and nice features. Definietely better than most other cheap brands like pyle, power acoustik, etc. Go big, or go home. might as well go all out, or youll just end up wanting it later.

firebirdude

Exactly! However, I would never consider MTX or Rockford highend. And only Alpine's X and the F1 line are highend. JL makes quality gear for every price range. Xtant's amps are solid. And Orion has never let me down.

For components CDT, Focal, or the set I went with, Adire Audio Kodas. I love em'. More midbass the anyone could shake a stick at. I have about 110WRMS per side on them and they scream. DAMN nice. Just ask around.

Subs. The L7's are damn loud..... but not the best sounding sub ever made. (and that's an understatement) Since you don't sound like your the SPL type, I recommend the Adire Audio Brahma, Elemental Designs A-series or the Image Dynamics IDMAX or Q. All three have bar none SQ.... and just happen to have an insane amount of excursion for that extra kick.

Weight is the key to a good sound deadener. Sorry. If you want lightweight, you mise well not even start laying deadener. And yes, there are a TON of dynamat knockoffs now. Just as good, but a fraction of the price. Go to www.termpro.com 's forum and search for these keywords. "pick prices sound" Can't remember the exact topic title but it's the ultimate comparision of sound deadeners. It's pretty old though. (over 2 years) Might have to search the archives. I just seen it like a week ago. My internet sucks right now or else I'd look for it for you.....

firebirdude

I'm on a better computer now.
http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bi...;f=40;t=008863

badhoopty

sweet firebirdude, thanks for the deadening link. about how much more weight will deadening add? are there specific problem areas that should be deadened and others that arent so noisy? i assume the doors will need it, and also the trunk/decklid. any other vibration-prone areas to focus on?

and thanks for the replies everybody, mucho appreciato.

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

Well, i suppose I can see where someone might not consider fosgate high-end, but its definetely not low end. And mtx and fosgate are both CEA compliant (most are not including xtant, all alpine, pioneer, kenwood, blah blah.) this means that the power theyre rated at may not be the actual power the amp puts out. Since theyre not compliant, they can really put whatever number they want on the box. Im sure people know what im talking about. you can go buy an 1200 watt pyle amp, but then you can go get a fosgate amp thats rated at 100w rms and itll blow that 1200 watt amp out of the water in any terms, even though that 1200 watt amp was supposed to be pushing 300w rms a channel. its all in choice, looks, and how much you want to spend. image dynamics is far too expensive for my taste. ill get infinity, save 200% and itll scream no less. just my opinion though.

firebirdude

Depends how many layers you do. If you're only looking to do a few select parts here and there, don't even worry about the weight. No more then about 30 pounds. But for those that go all out and do several layers over the entire car, they're up over 100 pounds easy. I just deadened both doors, a quick layer under front and rear seats, and two layers over the rear hump and hatch area. Wanted to keep that exhaust note down. That was one roll. I have a whole unused roll of RaMmatt60 just sittin around that I'd be willing to part with it. It's about 16" wide and 40-50ft long. Lemme know if you are interested. Common problem areas for rattles would be the license plate, behind tail lights, that plastic molding on the underside of the hatch, and the actual hatch against the latch that holds it in place. Keep in mind now, sound deadening wasn't made to cure rattles. It's used to keep the good sound in and the bad noise out. (Road noise, exhaust, etc.) If one of the spots is rattling, lemme know. If have a couple things that might fix them.