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Headlights NOT on

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Old 07-12-2004, 05:43 AM   #1
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Default Headlights NOT on

Have a MAJOR problem here, my headlights will not come on automatically OR manually. Fogs work just fine but the headlights make a static/cracking type noise through the actual light switch to the left of the column. I think maybe since there has been so much humidity in this area and I have had the A/C crankin' that maybe condensation has built up and dripped to cause the problem inside. All fuses otherwise are good but the system periodically spikes in conjunction with the crackling noise. Until this is figured out I cannot do any type of night driving past about 7...HELP.
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Old 07-12-2004, 12:56 PM   #2
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Ttt...please!!!!!!
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Old 07-12-2004, 01:34 PM   #3
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Replace the ambient light sensor with a straight piece of wire (by defroster vent). I doubt that's it, but it's quick and easy. Better order yourself a headlight switch module. Most likely it's failed internally. Get a schematic and jumper the 12v supply at the switch connector to the (I believe) yellow headlight wire. This will prove if the problem was within the switch.
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Old 07-13-2004, 06:10 AM   #4
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Got a new headlight switch module and it smoked the whole thing , ahhh the smell of burning electronics. So now I'm really concerned since I still have no headlights, luckily I still have parking andfog lights though. HELP ME RHONDA!!!! (or anyone else for that matter that could help)
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Old 07-13-2004, 06:53 AM   #5
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Sounds like a partial short to ground on the post switch side of the circuit. I don't have the schematic for the LS1's, but if someone does I could tshoot via internet.
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Old 07-15-2004, 12:39 PM   #6
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Thanks I will see what I can find here or go out and buy a Haynes or Chilton's
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
Thanks I will see what I can find here or go out and buy a Haynes or Chilton's
Here is the Camaro Headlight & DRL schematic...

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:52 AM   #8
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Thanks a lot for the diagram...now where to start? Why did the new module burn I wonder and there was a clicking/sizzling sound earlier when the headlights were trying to go on. It never happened with the parking lights though, now that clicking/sizzling sound has gone away though...I wonder.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:01 AM   #9
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Well, do the highbeams work? If so, then you can eliminate the headlight switch and the high beam side of the system from the dimmer switch forward as being the source of the problem. That might narrow it down somewhat.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:53 AM   #10
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Neither the headlights or the high beams work. So that would lead me to believe that it is tied in somehow to the dimmer switch, but hey what do I know. I'm here looking for the answers, so obviously I don't know much.
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Old 07-19-2004, 03:02 PM   #11
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I do believe after all is said and done that it may be the headlight relay switch. We shall see...
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Old 07-23-2004, 08:09 AM   #12
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Still have yet to get around to this, but in the meantime...any ideas from anyone?
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Old 07-25-2004, 03:55 PM   #13
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i have a problem whith my car alarm. i have a 98 trans am an every time i arm the alarm
the head light gou up and down can anyone help. thank you
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ely
i have a problem whith my car alarm. i have a 98 trans am an every time i arm the alarm
the head light gou up and down can anyone help. thank you
This is caused by a stripped gear in the headlight motor. The alarm system is designed to make sure the the headlights are closed when it is set but it can't tell because the gear is stripped so the resistance isn't right. So, it raises and lowers the headlights to make sure they're closed.

You have three choices: you can get a new headlight motor, you can open up the motor and rotate the gear 180 degrees so the stripped side isn't used, or you can open up the motor and put in a new metal gear to replace the factory plastic one. Putting in a metal gear is the only way you'll be sure that it won't happen again but rotating the existing plastic gear doesn't cost anything except your time.
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:59 PM   #15
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hy thank you for you help i will do that.
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Old 07-26-2004, 09:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
Still have yet to get around to this, but in the meantime...any ideas from anyone?
Do you have a Volt/Ohm meter available?
If so,
1)disconnect the battery
2)measure dc volatge from the Yellow wire to ground (just to make sure there isn't any voltage there after the battery has been disconnected).
3)measure resistance (ohms) from Yellow wire to ground, almost any reading is good, other than open (infinate), or short (0 ohms).
4)if you read a short, disconnect the low beam relay and measure. That will tell you if the relay is shorted out.

Start from there.
Hope that helps you.
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Old 07-26-2004, 09:31 PM   #17
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Also, I am really suprised you are not blowing fuses.
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Old 07-27-2004, 06:07 AM   #18
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As I was digging around last night I decided to go behind the stereo to get to the relay swith. Does anyone know the part number for the relay? I heard that the relay was next to the DRL control relay box. A diagram and part number would be infinately helpful in my quest here. Thanks in advance
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www.sevenohfive.com Another site not to be missed. The movies are great, true talent. REAL street racing can be seen on their movie SKID MARKS
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Old 07-27-2004, 08:33 AM   #19
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The relays you're talking about are in the DRL module behind the radio. Remove it, pop off the cover and inspect the circuit board.
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Old 07-27-2004, 08:42 AM   #20
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I just got off the phone with Chevy and they are saying the module that I found last night behind the stereo is the DRL/headlight module. They also informed me that to the right of this behind the glove box area is the three relays that I need to get to. The relay in the middle is the winner according to them...this sound right to all people? The other relays they said are sensors for theft and something else ( I can't remember).
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Old 07-27-2004, 08:42 AM
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