Security Light comes on wont let me crank
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Security Light comes on wont let me crank
SO I was coming back to the parking lot from my dr appointment and I get in my 1999 trans am. Well I put the keys in to crank it and it just the radio comes on and the "Security" light comes on. I was like so, I got out, turned the alarm on, then off, got back in. No avail. So I popped the hood, everything was as I left it, got back in and it cranks. Any ideas?
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Yep this happend to me a while back. I wound up ordering a new chip (as insurance) but cleaning my old one worked great.
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#8
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See my post above...the "chip" is the resistor (that little black thing with a metal contact) on your ignition key. When you insert your key in the ignition, the VATS system checks that it has the proper resistance before letting the car start. The idea was to prevent thieves from smashing the lock cylinder and turning the ignition switch with a screwdriver.
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
See my post above...the "chip" is the resistor (that little black thing with a metal contact) on your ignition key. When you insert your key in the ignition, the VATS system checks that it has the proper resistance before letting the car start. The idea was to prevent thieves from smashing the lock cylinder and turning the ignition switch with a screwdriver.
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Well, sort of. VATS is an acronym for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. It is also known as the PASS-Key system (Personal Automotive Security System). There are 15 different resistance values available in GM ignition keys. The value matching your key is programmed into the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM in turn controls the starter relay and fuel supply through the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). If the key resistor has the correct value then the BCM allows the car to start. If not, then it has the PCM shut off the fuel and doesn't reset for about 3 minutes. This is to discourage thieves from randomly trying resistor values.
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Well, sort of. VATS is an acronym for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. It is also known as the PASS-Key system (Personal Automotive Security System). There are 15 different resistance values available in GM ignition keys. The value matching your key is programmed into the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM in turn controls the starter relay and fuel supply through the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). If the key resistor has the correct value then the BCM allows the car to start. If not, then it has the PCM shut off the fuel and doesn't reset for about 3 minutes. This is to discourage thieves from randomly trying resistor values.
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If it continues to happen the problem could also lie in the tumber itself. They way it was designed is a maintenance guarantee. Everytime you turn the key the tumber itself moves just a small bit. On the outside of the ignition cylinder there are two small wires connected via a harness into wiring to the PCM. These small wires have a protective sheath around them that rubs ever so slightly with every key turn. Eventually the wires sever right there at the sheath, just far enough protected so that you can't get in to repair the wire break. A new ignition cylinder is needed at this time. You can buy one from a parts store for about $45 and it comes with a key template for the new Pass-Key you will need to have ground at a dealership for about $20 to make it run. Or you can take it into a dealer and have them charge somewhere between $450-500 to do the same thing. Even if you need to buy a manual and borrow some tools from the auto store, it's a lot cheaper. The work itself is not hard at all I have done it twice already, once for my 94 and once on my 00. Good luck!
#15
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Sorry for bumping this old *** thread but my Security light came on today, stays on and won't go away. Did searches and may be different things: ignition cylinder lock, resistor, BCM, etc. This sucks and light is annoying. Anyone know exactly the problem? Car is A4.
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Let me put this in perspective...
Your question is like somebody saying "My car won't start. I've searched and found that it could be the battery, the starter relay, or the starter. I don't want to look at more than one possibility so please tell me what is wrong."
A VATS bypass with resistors will eliminate (bypass actually) the problem if it is caused by a worn or grimy key, a worn or grimy ignition cylinder, or damaged wires in the steering column. That would only leave the BCM itself or the wiring between the column and the BCM.
Have you tried your spare key? Have you tried cleaning your key and inside the ignition cylinder? The light is not flashing so the BCM is getting some reading - just not the right one. You could get out a multimeter and do some testing to track down the problem. Check resistance at the bottom of the column with the key in. It should be within 10% of the reading of the key itself.
Your question is like somebody saying "My car won't start. I've searched and found that it could be the battery, the starter relay, or the starter. I don't want to look at more than one possibility so please tell me what is wrong."
A VATS bypass with resistors will eliminate (bypass actually) the problem if it is caused by a worn or grimy key, a worn or grimy ignition cylinder, or damaged wires in the steering column. That would only leave the BCM itself or the wiring between the column and the BCM.
Have you tried your spare key? Have you tried cleaning your key and inside the ignition cylinder? The light is not flashing so the BCM is getting some reading - just not the right one. You could get out a multimeter and do some testing to track down the problem. Check resistance at the bottom of the column with the key in. It should be within 10% of the reading of the key itself.
#18
Formally Simplɘ Jack
Let me put this in perspective...
Your question is like somebody saying "My car won't start. I've searched and found that it could be the battery, the starter relay, or the starter. I don't want to look at more than one possibility so please tell me what is wrong."
A VATS bypass with resistors will eliminate (bypass actually) the problem if it is caused by a worn or grimy key, a worn or grimy ignition cylinder, or damaged wires in the steering column. That would only leave the BCM itself or the wiring between the column and the BCM.
Have you tried your spare key? Have you tried cleaning your key and inside the ignition cylinder? The light is not flashing so the BCM is getting some reading - just not the right one. You could get out a multimeter and do some testing to track down the problem. Check resistance at the bottom of the column with the key in. It should be within 10% of the reading of the key itself.
Your question is like somebody saying "My car won't start. I've searched and found that it could be the battery, the starter relay, or the starter. I don't want to look at more than one possibility so please tell me what is wrong."
A VATS bypass with resistors will eliminate (bypass actually) the problem if it is caused by a worn or grimy key, a worn or grimy ignition cylinder, or damaged wires in the steering column. That would only leave the BCM itself or the wiring between the column and the BCM.
Have you tried your spare key? Have you tried cleaning your key and inside the ignition cylinder? The light is not flashing so the BCM is getting some reading - just not the right one. You could get out a multimeter and do some testing to track down the problem. Check resistance at the bottom of the column with the key in. It should be within 10% of the reading of the key itself.
#20
Formally Simplɘ Jack