Frequently Asked Questions
07-01-2005, 02:15 AM
#21
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Replacing Lights On Steering Wheel Control How to replace your lights on your steering wheel controls.
Click Here (document is for a 98 but 99+ is very similar)
Click Here (document is for a 98 but 99+ is very similar)
Last edited by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick; 04-03-2006 at 08:38 PM.
12-03-2005, 01:35 PM
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Reprogramming Another Keyless Entry Remote Thanks to jimbonzzz
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle. If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have a maximum of four transmitters matched to it. Have each transmitter you intend to match ready for the next steps. To match transmitters to your vehicle, do the following:
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN, then to OFF. This will disarm the content theft-deterrent/alarm system (if equipped).
2. Remove the RADIO fuse. This fuse is located in the main fuse block which is located on the left side of your instrument panel. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.
3. Turn the ignition key from OFF to RUN three times quickly (within five seconds). The vehicle will respond by locking the doors, unlocking the driver’s door and releasing the hatch. Your transmitter is now ready to match the vehicle. Leave the ignition in RUN.
4. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the first transmitter for 15 seconds. The vehicle will respond as in Step 3.
5. Repeat Step 4 for the remaining transmitters.
6. When you have finished matching all of your transmitters, replace the RADIO fuse.
7. Check that all transmitters work by pressing the buttons. If the transmitters don’t work, or if you’d rather not match the transmitters yourself, see your dealer.
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle. If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have a maximum of four transmitters matched to it. Have each transmitter you intend to match ready for the next steps. To match transmitters to your vehicle, do the following:
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN, then to OFF. This will disarm the content theft-deterrent/alarm system (if equipped).
2. Remove the RADIO fuse. This fuse is located in the main fuse block which is located on the left side of your instrument panel. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.
3. Turn the ignition key from OFF to RUN three times quickly (within five seconds). The vehicle will respond by locking the doors, unlocking the driver’s door and releasing the hatch. Your transmitter is now ready to match the vehicle. Leave the ignition in RUN.
4. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the first transmitter for 15 seconds. The vehicle will respond as in Step 3.
5. Repeat Step 4 for the remaining transmitters.
6. When you have finished matching all of your transmitters, replace the RADIO fuse.
7. Check that all transmitters work by pressing the buttons. If the transmitters don’t work, or if you’d rather not match the transmitters yourself, see your dealer.
02-04-2006, 11:21 PM
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Upgrading Your Electrical System One of the most overlooked aspects of a high-powered auto sound installation is its effect on a car's electrical system. No amplifier, no matter how sophisticated it is, can change the laws of physics. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed; it can only be changed from one form to another. This is exactly what an auto sound amplifier does: It takes power from the electrical system in your vehicle – the battery and alternator, primarily – and converts it into usable power to drive your speakers. When installing an amplifier into your system, remember that it cannot produce more power than you make available for it to convert – so you need to know what your electrical system is capable of, and how to upgrade it.
Say you have a 1,000-watt audio system and you want to know if your car's electrical system can drive it. At full output, the system will produce 1,000 watts of power to your speakers at about 62 percent efficiency. This means that the input power to the amplifiers is 1,000 / 0.62 or 1,612 watts. The standard equation for power is
If we assume that the battery's voltage is the typical 13 VDC, then the input current, or alternator power, required by your system can be calculated from the above equation. Rearranging the equation, we get
By plugging in the numbers and solving the equation, we get I = 1,612 / 13 – or 124 amps.
Most stock alternators produce only about 60 amps maximum. Of this, about half is used to run the car itself. So this leaves you with about 30 amps for your system, 94 amps less than the 124 you need. Where will the other 94 amps come from? The battery will try to supply it, but it will be able to do so only for short periods before the voltage drop to an insufficient level. Your system will not be able to play at its full potential for any significant length of time.
There are several things you can do to increase the performance of your electrical system. First, you can replace the stock alternator with a high-output alternator, the single most important modification you can make. There are many high-output alternators on the market, with outputs ranging from 105 to 190 amps at full load.
When comparing these alternators, there are several important questions you should ask, the first probably being: Will it fit? Some high-output alternators replace OEM equipment bolt for bolt. If this isn't the case, you'll have to construct custom brackets; this is a very involved and time-consuming task.
The most important specification to query is the alternator's current rating. Make sure all ratings are for a "hot" alternator; output current usually drops as the unit heats up to its normal working temperature. Find out what the output current is at both idle rpm and highway rpm. When comparing alternators in this manner, make sure both units have pulleys of the same size and thus the same rotor speed.
The last question you will have to ask concerns regulation. Some alternators have "internal" regulation, while others have "external" regulation. I recommend using external regulation, if possible, since this type makes it easier to adjust the electrical system's voltage.
Using multiple batteries will also improve the performance of your electrical system. The extra battery or batteries will supply additional power to the system when the current demands of the amplifiers exceed the full output capability of the alternator. Multiple batteries also allow you to play your sound system longer when you're parked and the engine is shut off.
Ideally, you should opt for a high-output alternator and additional batteries. A good rule of thumb is to use the largest alternator you can fit on the engine and an additional battery for every 500 watts of amplification.
There are many types of batteries available, of course – which one is right for you? For audio installations, experience has shown that the best results will be obtained using deep-cycle marine batteries. These batteries can be obtained from almost any dealer for approximately $60. Lead-acid batteries are preferred over calcium-based (maintenance-free) batteries because of their superior internal characteristics. Maintenance-free batteries are usually designed to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time. This is great for starting your car, but not so great for running a high-powered system.
Deep-cycle marine batteries, on the other hand, are designed to provide a moderate-to-large amount of current over a long period of time. The plates in each cell are thicker, and they are made for deep, cyclic use. This is important because you can severely drain this type of battery without damaging it, which is ideal for car audio installations.
There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This indicates a battery's ability to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time at cold temperatures. (If you're looking for a battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you would be most interested in.)
The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time and of course the larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries have AH ratings of 85 to 105.
The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the battery's ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge cycle – without re-charging. It is always better to have longer reserve time.
Installing the extra battery or batteries in parallel will result in the most efficient use of its (their) power. When using this method, your total AH rating is equal to the AH ratings of all of your batteries. Note that batteries installed in this manner should be identical (the same make and model). If they're not the same, their internal impedances will differ and, eventually, one battery will discharge the other.
When wiring the electrical system, don't skimp on large-gauge wire. Welding cable is preferable because of its tough outer jacket, fine wire strands, and good flexibility. The bottom line is that you should never use less than No. 4 wire. Also, don't forget to install 150-amp circuit breakers at each end of the power cable running from the front to the rear of the car. The circuit breakers will protect the vehicle in case of a short somewhere along the length of the cable.
It's important to take the time to plan out your electrical system. A properly designed and installed system will provide a good foundation for your auto sound components while maintaining reliability and safety. The audibly superior performance will be well worth the added time and expense.
Author: Wayne Harris
Originally appeared in the July/August 1988 issue of Car Stereo Review magazine.
© All rights reserved.
http://www.termpro.com/articles/electsys.html
Say you have a 1,000-watt audio system and you want to know if your car's electrical system can drive it. At full output, the system will produce 1,000 watts of power to your speakers at about 62 percent efficiency. This means that the input power to the amplifiers is 1,000 / 0.62 or 1,612 watts. The standard equation for power is
Code:
P = V x I P = input power in watts V = input voltage I = input current in amps
Code:
I = P / V
Most stock alternators produce only about 60 amps maximum. Of this, about half is used to run the car itself. So this leaves you with about 30 amps for your system, 94 amps less than the 124 you need. Where will the other 94 amps come from? The battery will try to supply it, but it will be able to do so only for short periods before the voltage drop to an insufficient level. Your system will not be able to play at its full potential for any significant length of time.
There are several things you can do to increase the performance of your electrical system. First, you can replace the stock alternator with a high-output alternator, the single most important modification you can make. There are many high-output alternators on the market, with outputs ranging from 105 to 190 amps at full load.
When comparing these alternators, there are several important questions you should ask, the first probably being: Will it fit? Some high-output alternators replace OEM equipment bolt for bolt. If this isn't the case, you'll have to construct custom brackets; this is a very involved and time-consuming task.
The most important specification to query is the alternator's current rating. Make sure all ratings are for a "hot" alternator; output current usually drops as the unit heats up to its normal working temperature. Find out what the output current is at both idle rpm and highway rpm. When comparing alternators in this manner, make sure both units have pulleys of the same size and thus the same rotor speed.
The last question you will have to ask concerns regulation. Some alternators have "internal" regulation, while others have "external" regulation. I recommend using external regulation, if possible, since this type makes it easier to adjust the electrical system's voltage.
Using multiple batteries will also improve the performance of your electrical system. The extra battery or batteries will supply additional power to the system when the current demands of the amplifiers exceed the full output capability of the alternator. Multiple batteries also allow you to play your sound system longer when you're parked and the engine is shut off.
Ideally, you should opt for a high-output alternator and additional batteries. A good rule of thumb is to use the largest alternator you can fit on the engine and an additional battery for every 500 watts of amplification.
There are many types of batteries available, of course – which one is right for you? For audio installations, experience has shown that the best results will be obtained using deep-cycle marine batteries. These batteries can be obtained from almost any dealer for approximately $60. Lead-acid batteries are preferred over calcium-based (maintenance-free) batteries because of their superior internal characteristics. Maintenance-free batteries are usually designed to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time. This is great for starting your car, but not so great for running a high-powered system.
Deep-cycle marine batteries, on the other hand, are designed to provide a moderate-to-large amount of current over a long period of time. The plates in each cell are thicker, and they are made for deep, cyclic use. This is important because you can severely drain this type of battery without damaging it, which is ideal for car audio installations.
There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This indicates a battery's ability to provide a large amount of current for a short period of time at cold temperatures. (If you're looking for a battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you would be most interested in.)
The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time and of course the larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries have AH ratings of 85 to 105.
The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the battery's ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge cycle – without re-charging. It is always better to have longer reserve time.
Installing the extra battery or batteries in parallel will result in the most efficient use of its (their) power. When using this method, your total AH rating is equal to the AH ratings of all of your batteries. Note that batteries installed in this manner should be identical (the same make and model). If they're not the same, their internal impedances will differ and, eventually, one battery will discharge the other.
When wiring the electrical system, don't skimp on large-gauge wire. Welding cable is preferable because of its tough outer jacket, fine wire strands, and good flexibility. The bottom line is that you should never use less than No. 4 wire. Also, don't forget to install 150-amp circuit breakers at each end of the power cable running from the front to the rear of the car. The circuit breakers will protect the vehicle in case of a short somewhere along the length of the cable.
It's important to take the time to plan out your electrical system. A properly designed and installed system will provide a good foundation for your auto sound components while maintaining reliability and safety. The audibly superior performance will be well worth the added time and expense.
Author: Wayne Harris
Originally appeared in the July/August 1988 issue of Car Stereo Review magazine.
© All rights reserved.
http://www.termpro.com/articles/electsys.html
Last edited by Richiec77; 03-05-2006 at 08:38 PM.
03-01-2006, 03:45 AM
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Thanks to ACW for this info...
GM ordering part numbers for the correct items for F-bodies:
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (93-95 Firebird) = 12522339
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (94-95 Camaro) = 15725423 (formerly 10239647)
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (without antitheft) (96-98) = 16245103
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (with antitheft - RPO UA6) (96-02) = 16245100
GM ordering part numbers for the correct items for F-bodies:
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (93-95 Firebird) = 12522339
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (94-95 Camaro) = 15725423 (formerly 10239647)
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (without antitheft) (96-98) = 16245103
remote control door lock transmitter (keyfob) (with antitheft - RPO UA6) (96-02) = 16245100
03-14-2006, 06:32 AM
#25
How to Remove the Stock Radio It is not as hard as it seems. Once you've done it you'll see that it is an easy affair all in all.
BUT, for those that have never done it, here is some info.
Pulling the Bezel
: It is only held on with a few Spring clips. They are pressure only type fitting. This means that you only have to pull on the bezzle in a few areas and it will literally fall off.
Here is a Vid that explains it all SO well. (Thanks to VIP1)
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/RadioBezel.wmv
Once the face is off, You can now get to the radio itself.
It is held in place by 2 5mm screws. The heads are 7mm. So you'll need a 7mm or 9/32 socket. I'd recommend the 7mm instead since the 9/32 doesn't quite fit snug enough. Unbolt these screws and keep them in a good, secure place for now. (Like the ash tray)
Now that the Screws are removed, the headunit can be pulled out. Just slide it out until it comes all the way out or there is some resistance and then stop.
If there was some resistance during pulling, STOP and take a look behind the radio. The wiring may be caught up on something.
Once it's all the way out, unplug the Antenna by grabbing on the connector and pull out. That is the 1st connection to be undone.
Next there are 1-2 more connections. The 3rd connection is only if you have a CD changer attached.
To pull the Connectors off the back of the radio, press down on the detent on the top side of the connector and pull straight out. Be careful since you have to yank on the wires a bit here. MAKE SURE THE DETENT IS PRESSED DOWN. If it isn't and you yank on the wires, you may pull them out of the molded plug.
Last is the CD Changer (if one is in your vehicle). Press down on the Detent on the top side and pull straight out.
Once all this done, the radio can be pulled completly out of the dash area.
BUT, for those that have never done it, here is some info.
Pulling the Bezel
: It is only held on with a few Spring clips. They are pressure only type fitting. This means that you only have to pull on the bezzle in a few areas and it will literally fall off.
Here is a Vid that explains it all SO well. (Thanks to VIP1)
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/RadioBezel.wmv
Once the face is off, You can now get to the radio itself.
It is held in place by 2 5mm screws. The heads are 7mm. So you'll need a 7mm or 9/32 socket. I'd recommend the 7mm instead since the 9/32 doesn't quite fit snug enough. Unbolt these screws and keep them in a good, secure place for now. (Like the ash tray)
Now that the Screws are removed, the headunit can be pulled out. Just slide it out until it comes all the way out or there is some resistance and then stop.
If there was some resistance during pulling, STOP and take a look behind the radio. The wiring may be caught up on something.
Once it's all the way out, unplug the Antenna by grabbing on the connector and pull out. That is the 1st connection to be undone.
Next there are 1-2 more connections. The 3rd connection is only if you have a CD changer attached.
To pull the Connectors off the back of the radio, press down on the detent on the top side of the connector and pull straight out. Be careful since you have to yank on the wires a bit here. MAKE SURE THE DETENT IS PRESSED DOWN. If it isn't and you yank on the wires, you may pull them out of the molded plug.
Last is the CD Changer (if one is in your vehicle). Press down on the Detent on the top side and pull straight out.
Once all this done, the radio can be pulled completly out of the dash area.
Last edited by Richiec77; 12-08-2007 at 11:07 AM.
06-23-2006, 03:07 PM
#26
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thanks to 383ss for this info.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/445782-so-you-want-replace-your-cluster-aftermarket-gauges.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------
here's a little guide I put together. maybe somebody can make this a stickey or tell me if its in the wrong forum...
I tried to figure out the easiest way to wire into the stock wiring harness that goes to the gauge cluster itself. turns out you can't use it for much
Oil pressure sensor - you can tap in a use the existing wiring (pin B14 tan), BUT you have to use the autometer sending unit (comes with the gauge) and get a 16X1.5mm to 1/8 NPT adapter (p/n 2268). Just take out the stock sending unit and screw the autometer one in its place. the pcm does not use this information for anything so you can use the stock wiring. just cut out the old sender and wire the new one in its place. obviously you can also just run a wire from the sender through the firewall straight to the gauge.
water temp sensor - the information to the gauge cluster is in serial data, so you cannot tap into it. you can not use the temp gauge on the driver side head as it is used by the PCM (99+ LS1's) you need to get a different adapter (autometer p/n 2277 1/8NPT to 12X1.5mm, you must drill out to fit sender) and use the sending unit with the water temp gauge. you can then use the existing location towards the back of the passenger head to screw in the sending unit. you will then have to run a wire to the gauge through the firewall from there.
speedometer - you must tap into the VSS signal that goes from the transmission to the PCM. you can NOT tap into the line from the PCM to the gauge cluster as it is a square wave. the autometer gauge requires the sine wave of the VSS circuit. on 99's this is pin 50 dark green/white vehicle speed output circuit, lower (red) connector.
voltmeter - simply apply power and ground to it, you can use pin A10 orange as power and B15 black/white as ground.
fuel level - you can not tap into the wiring as it is serial data to the cluster. The LS1 sending unit is 40-240 ohm and the signal is sent to the PCM. The PCM then sends the info to the cluster. You need to tap into the line that goes from the sender to the PCM. on 99's its pin 54 (purple) on the lower (red) connector. Autometer makes gauges that work from 33-240ohm. these should work fine. (I'll update next week when I wire mine to confirm, just got this info)
tach - you can not tap into the gauge cluster as it is serial data. you have to tap into the PCM just like a shift light with a single wire. 99-02 should locate the number ten (10) pin white and tap into it (lower connector), 98 locate the number 35 pin (upper connector) and the wire should be white in color.
for gauge power you can use pin A3 pink and/or pin B5 purple/white. they are both a fused ignition feed. use pn B15 blk/wht for ground.
for gauge lighting you can use the stock lighting power, B9 gray.
here's where you can find the pinout information for the PCM of your year LS1
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html
here's all the pinout information for the plug I'm talking about. it goes right into the back of the gauge cluster.
Pin color use
A1-2-not used
A3---pink------fused ignition feed
A4---not used
A5---tan/wht--brake warning indicator lamp input
A6-7-not used
A8---brwn/wht-SES light
A9---not used
A10--orn-------fused battery feed
A11--not used
A12--lt blu------left turn input
A13--ppl/wht---seat belt indicator
A14-16-not used
A17--lt grn------high beam indicator
B1---brn--------park lamp feed
B2---not used
B3---gry--------security indicator input
B4---not used
B5---ppl/wht----fused ignition feed
B6---gry--------Class 2 Serial Data ***********
B7---orn/blk-----rear compartment lid ajar indicator
B8---dk grn/wht--vehicle speed signal
B9---gry---------instrument cluster lamp feed
B10--dk blu------right turn indicator input
B11--blk----ground
B12-13--not used
B14--tan---------oil pressure gauge input
B15--blk wht------ground
B16-17- not used
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/445782-so-you-want-replace-your-cluster-aftermarket-gauges.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------
here's a little guide I put together. maybe somebody can make this a stickey or tell me if its in the wrong forum...
I tried to figure out the easiest way to wire into the stock wiring harness that goes to the gauge cluster itself. turns out you can't use it for much
Oil pressure sensor - you can tap in a use the existing wiring (pin B14 tan), BUT you have to use the autometer sending unit (comes with the gauge) and get a 16X1.5mm to 1/8 NPT adapter (p/n 2268). Just take out the stock sending unit and screw the autometer one in its place. the pcm does not use this information for anything so you can use the stock wiring. just cut out the old sender and wire the new one in its place. obviously you can also just run a wire from the sender through the firewall straight to the gauge.
water temp sensor - the information to the gauge cluster is in serial data, so you cannot tap into it. you can not use the temp gauge on the driver side head as it is used by the PCM (99+ LS1's) you need to get a different adapter (autometer p/n 2277 1/8NPT to 12X1.5mm, you must drill out to fit sender) and use the sending unit with the water temp gauge. you can then use the existing location towards the back of the passenger head to screw in the sending unit. you will then have to run a wire to the gauge through the firewall from there.
speedometer - you must tap into the VSS signal that goes from the transmission to the PCM. you can NOT tap into the line from the PCM to the gauge cluster as it is a square wave. the autometer gauge requires the sine wave of the VSS circuit. on 99's this is pin 50 dark green/white vehicle speed output circuit, lower (red) connector.
voltmeter - simply apply power and ground to it, you can use pin A10 orange as power and B15 black/white as ground.
fuel level - you can not tap into the wiring as it is serial data to the cluster. The LS1 sending unit is 40-240 ohm and the signal is sent to the PCM. The PCM then sends the info to the cluster. You need to tap into the line that goes from the sender to the PCM. on 99's its pin 54 (purple) on the lower (red) connector. Autometer makes gauges that work from 33-240ohm. these should work fine. (I'll update next week when I wire mine to confirm, just got this info)
tach - you can not tap into the gauge cluster as it is serial data. you have to tap into the PCM just like a shift light with a single wire. 99-02 should locate the number ten (10) pin white and tap into it (lower connector), 98 locate the number 35 pin (upper connector) and the wire should be white in color.
for gauge power you can use pin A3 pink and/or pin B5 purple/white. they are both a fused ignition feed. use pn B15 blk/wht for ground.
for gauge lighting you can use the stock lighting power, B9 gray.
here's where you can find the pinout information for the PCM of your year LS1
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html
here's all the pinout information for the plug I'm talking about. it goes right into the back of the gauge cluster.
Pin color use
A1-2-not used
A3---pink------fused ignition feed
A4---not used
A5---tan/wht--brake warning indicator lamp input
A6-7-not used
A8---brwn/wht-SES light
A9---not used
A10--orn-------fused battery feed
A11--not used
A12--lt blu------left turn input
A13--ppl/wht---seat belt indicator
A14-16-not used
A17--lt grn------high beam indicator
B1---brn--------park lamp feed
B2---not used
B3---gry--------security indicator input
B4---not used
B5---ppl/wht----fused ignition feed
B6---gry--------Class 2 Serial Data ***********
B7---orn/blk-----rear compartment lid ajar indicator
B8---dk grn/wht--vehicle speed signal
B9---gry---------instrument cluster lamp feed
B10--dk blu------right turn indicator input
B11--blk----ground
B12-13--not used
B14--tan---------oil pressure gauge input
B15--blk wht------ground
B16-17- not used
06-06-2007, 10:20 PM
#27
How To Relocate Climate Controls 97-02 https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...2&page=1&pp=20
Excellent write-up by JasonWW. I won't regurgitate the idea here. Please follow the link. Has very good pictures and directions.
Excellent write-up by JasonWW. I won't regurgitate the idea here. Please follow the link. Has very good pictures and directions.
