switched 12volt power supply
10-18-2005, 08:43 PM
#1
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switched 12volt power supply i'm trying to hook up a scan gauge that only needs a switched power supply...I was looking at a wiring digram...and it shows that the stereo....with the yellow connector is only hot when the ignition is turned out?..is that true? also..i noticed that there is a pink wire coming out of my asr switch...is that a good wire to tap into?
10-18-2005, 09:16 PM
#2
The yellow wire at the radio is live when the car is running, when the ignition switch is in the accessory position, and during retained accessory power operation.
It's probably best not to use the pink wire at the ASR switch. It is a low current circuit connected to the GAUGES fuse (only 10 amps total). However, if you did want to use it, it is live only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
It's probably best not to use the pink wire at the ASR switch. It is a low current circuit connected to the GAUGES fuse (only 10 amps total). However, if you did want to use it, it is live only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
10-18-2005, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
The yellow wire at the radio is live when the car is running, when the ignition switch is in the accessory position, and during retained accessory power operation.
It's probably best not to use the pink wire at the ASR switch. It is a low current circuit connected to the GAUGES fuse (only 10 amps total). However, if you did want to use it, it is live only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
It's probably best not to use the pink wire at the ASR switch. It is a low current circuit connected to the GAUGES fuse (only 10 amps total). However, if you did want to use it, it is live only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position.
10-19-2005, 07:16 AM
#4
Well, the best way is to use the extra battery, ignition, and accessory connectors in the fuse panel that are designed for aftermarket use. Unfortunately, they aren't easy to route wiring to, so the radio harness is a (relatively) convenient alternative. You shouldn't have any problem using the yellow wire there unless you connect something that draws a lot of current. Just be sure to put an inline fuse in your connection.
10-19-2005, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Well, the best way is to use the extra battery, ignition, and accessory connectors in the fuse panel that are designed for aftermarket use. Unfortunately, they aren't easy to route wiring to, so the radio harness is a (relatively) convenient alternative. You shouldn't have any problem using the yellow wire there unless you connect something that draws a lot of current. Just be sure to put an inline fuse in your connection.
10-19-2005, 08:32 AM
#6
That is normal - the yellow wire has retained accessory power just like the radio and power windows. The power stays on for about 10 minutes after you shut off the car or until you open the door.
Adding a fuse is just a case of buying one of those inline fuse holders at your local auto parts store and connecting it. Basically, it's a piece of wire with a fuse socket in the middle - connect one end to where you are tapping into the factory wiring and the other end to the wire for your gauge. It will have no effect on the way the gauge works. It will just provide protection in case of a short - the fuse will blow instead of the car burning up.
Adding a fuse is just a case of buying one of those inline fuse holders at your local auto parts store and connecting it. Basically, it's a piece of wire with a fuse socket in the middle - connect one end to where you are tapping into the factory wiring and the other end to the wire for your gauge. It will have no effect on the way the gauge works. It will just provide protection in case of a short - the fuse will blow instead of the car burning up.
10-19-2005, 08:55 AM
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"extra battery, ignition, and accessory connectors in the fuse panel"
how do i do this? and for the 10 minutes that is on...could it drain my battery?
how do i do this? and for the 10 minutes that is on...could it drain my battery?
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10-20-2005, 09:38 AM
#8
Pull the cover off the fuse panel on the end of the dash. You will see a bunch of fuses and the three single pin sockets labeled ACCY, IGN, and BATT. These sockets take a flat blade connector also known as a "quick disconnect".
To get your wire to those connectors, remove the bolt holding the fuse panel in place and push it out of the way. Pull your wire through the opening from behind the dash and connect it to whichever socket you need. (This depends on when you want power available - BATT is live all the time, IGN is live only when the ignition is ON, and ACCY is live when the ignition is ON and during retained accessory power operation.) Then just reattach the fuse panel being careful not to crimp the wire you just connected.
It is very unlikely that a gauge would draw enough power to run down the battery in 10 minutes. Besides, how often do you shut off the car and sit in it without opening a door (which cancels the RAP operation)?
To get your wire to those connectors, remove the bolt holding the fuse panel in place and push it out of the way. Pull your wire through the opening from behind the dash and connect it to whichever socket you need. (This depends on when you want power available - BATT is live all the time, IGN is live only when the ignition is ON, and ACCY is live when the ignition is ON and during retained accessory power operation.) Then just reattach the fuse panel being careful not to crimp the wire you just connected.
It is very unlikely that a gauge would draw enough power to run down the battery in 10 minutes. Besides, how often do you shut off the car and sit in it without opening a door (which cancels the RAP operation)?
10-20-2005, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Pull the cover off the fuse panel on the end of the dash. You will see a bunch of fuses and the three single pin sockets labeled ACCY, IGN, and BATT. These sockets take a flat blade connector also known as a "quick disconnect".
To get your wire to those connectors, remove the bolt holding the fuse panel in place and push it out of the way. Pull your wire through the opening from behind the dash and connect it to whichever socket you need. (This depends on when you want power available - BATT is live all the time, IGN is live only when the ignition is ON, and ACCY is live when the ignition is ON and during retained accessory power operation.) Then just reattach the fuse panel being careful not to crimp the wire you just connected.
It is very unlikely that a gauge would draw enough power to run down the battery in 10 minutes. Besides, how often do you shut off the car and sit in it without opening a door (which cancels the RAP operation)?
To get your wire to those connectors, remove the bolt holding the fuse panel in place and push it out of the way. Pull your wire through the opening from behind the dash and connect it to whichever socket you need. (This depends on when you want power available - BATT is live all the time, IGN is live only when the ignition is ON, and ACCY is live when the ignition is ON and during retained accessory power operation.) Then just reattach the fuse panel being careful not to crimp the wire you just connected.
It is very unlikely that a gauge would draw enough power to run down the battery in 10 minutes. Besides, how often do you shut off the car and sit in it without opening a door (which cancels the RAP operation)?
10-20-2005, 09:52 PM
#10
Sounds like there's something wrong with your door switch. It is contained in the door lock mechanism and sometimes gets gummed up or gets out of alignment. You can try using compressed air to blow out any accumulated grime and then check that it's not loose or mispositioned.
There is no fuse to remove on those three connectors - they're just single pin openings in the fuse panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and you'll see what I mean. You'll have to add your own inline fuse to any circuit you connect there.
There is no fuse to remove on those three connectors - they're just single pin openings in the fuse panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and you'll see what I mean. You'll have to add your own inline fuse to any circuit you connect there.
10-22-2005, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Sounds like there's something wrong with your door switch. It is contained in the door lock mechanism and sometimes gets gummed up or gets out of alignment. You can try using compressed air to blow out any accumulated grime and then check that it's not loose or mispositioned.
There is no fuse to remove on those three connectors - they're just single pin openings in the fuse panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and you'll see what I mean. You'll have to add your own inline fuse to any circuit you connect there.
There is no fuse to remove on those three connectors - they're just single pin openings in the fuse panel. Pull off the fuse panel cover and you'll see what I mean. You'll have to add your own inline fuse to any circuit you connect there.
10-24-2005, 07:29 AM
#13
Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
it still shuts off the stereo though. is there a different wire i should tap into? since its just a gauge..could I just tap into the pink wire off my asr switch?
Yes, you could use the pink wire at the ASR switch but I wouldn't recommend it. That circuit is already near capacity from the factory and adding an accessory could cause problems.
Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
hey..I see what your talking about with the fuse panel...what kind of fuses does that take?
10-24-2005, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
What you're saying is impossible. If you tapped power from the yellow wire in the black connector on the factory radio harness then that is the same source of ignition controlled power that the radio uses. If the radio turns off then anything else attached to that wire must also turn off. Are you sure you didn't use the orange wire? The orange wire provides battery power (on all the time) to maintain the radio memory.
Yes, you could use the pink wire at the ASR switch but I wouldn't recommend it. That circuit is already near capacity from the factory and adding an accessory could cause problems.
Those extra connectors don't have their own fuses - they are protected by the fusible links under the hood. You will have to put an inline fuse in any circuit you connect to those outlets (no more than 15 amp). If you anticipate adding more electrical accessories in the future, you might find it worthwhile to run different colored, fused wires from each of the three connectors to some convenient location behind the dash. That way they will be easily available when you want to connect something else.
Yes, you could use the pink wire at the ASR switch but I wouldn't recommend it. That circuit is already near capacity from the factory and adding an accessory could cause problems.
Those extra connectors don't have their own fuses - they are protected by the fusible links under the hood. You will have to put an inline fuse in any circuit you connect to those outlets (no more than 15 amp). If you anticipate adding more electrical accessories in the future, you might find it worthwhile to run different colored, fused wires from each of the three connectors to some convenient location behind the dash. That way they will be easily available when you want to connect something else.
