Problem With system
01-05-2006, 10:47 PM
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Problem With system UPDATE! I have a 98 TA with a complete aftermarket system in it, it has a alpine 9833 headunit, alpine MRV-f752 class t amp powering 3 pair of infinity kappa speakers, i also have a stinger 1.0 farad cap. the problem is that i was working on the car a few days ago and had the key on but the radio was off. now when i try to turn the raido on the caps makes a loud buzzing noise and doesnt power up the amp, the readout on the cap goes anywhere from 8v-11.xxv. but the amp never comes on. could my cap have come un charged while i was working on the car??? please help
Last edited by 1998TA__1991RS; 01-07-2006 at 11:46 PM.
01-06-2006, 01:38 AM
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Have you tried powring up the amp with out the Capacitor? The capacitor's function is to simply smooth out voltage dips cause by the ebb and flow of the current to your amp (usually only a problem associated with class D Subwoofer amps).
I'd check all your fuses and power connections.
I'd check all your fuses and power connections.
01-06-2006, 10:18 AM
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No. The capacitor is not a battery, it charges and discharges in miliseconds. The charge is solely based on the voltage applied accross it. If there is only 8V accross the cap, it's because you are only getting 8V to the cap. SO the problem is likely with your power and ground feeds.
BTW: What were working on in your car when your sound system quit working?
BTW: What were working on in your car when your sound system quit working?
01-06-2006, 01:22 PM
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i was putting a hurst quarter stick in it and i was trying to figure out what wire was going to the PNP switch and the backup lights, i think it may have sent a surge through the system and blown the amp fuse
01-06-2006, 01:27 PM
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or i think it may be the ground came loose, but if the ground came loose would the cap still light up since it runs off of the same ground?
Last edited by 1998TA__1991RS; 01-06-2006 at 01:43 PM.
01-06-2006, 01:32 PM
#7
NOOOOOO after you got that amp working.
You need to check the remote wire. That's what will turn the amp on. I believe that if you have a test light, that you can use it to tell if the remote is hot when the headunit is on. If it isn't hot, then its either the wire, or the headunit. did you check all your settings on the headunit?
You need to check the remote wire. That's what will turn the amp on. I believe that if you have a test light, that you can use it to tell if the remote is hot when the headunit is on. If it isn't hot, then its either the wire, or the headunit. did you check all your settings on the headunit?
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01-07-2006, 11:48 PM
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OK i checked all the fuses and they are fine, the ground is fine, when i unhook the main power wire from that cap it has 12v, then wheni hook it back up to the cap it only has 7v?!?!? what is that about???, the amp has 7 volts going to it on the power and remote wires, but no light comes on, when i unhook the main power from the cap the power light on the amp lights up red..... someone help me please!!!
01-07-2006, 11:51 PM
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the cap is a 1farad stinger with the digital readout, the readout on the cap reads 1 volt higher than my snap-on multimeter, it also constantly beeps reallly high pitched
01-08-2006, 04:20 PM
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ok i messed with it somemore and completely bypassed the cap. the amp still doesnt power up. i have 12 volts untill i hook it up and the voltage drops to 5-7. the remote wire has 12 volts untill i hook it up and it drops to 7... whats going wrong here
01-08-2006, 06:48 PM
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The problem is current draw. You're just not getting enough of it to your Amplifier. Since you said it was the Remote turn-on that was the culprit, I believe 1 of 3 things may be happening:
1. The head unit is broke and cannot supply the necessary current to the amp circuit.
2. Something shorted in the amplifier causing it to draw too much current on the remote line.
3. There is a bad connection on this path causing an extra series resistance that is dropping the voltage too low for the amp.
1. The head unit is broke and cannot supply the necessary current to the amp circuit.
2. Something shorted in the amplifier causing it to draw too much current on the remote line.
3. There is a bad connection on this path causing an extra series resistance that is dropping the voltage too low for the amp.
Last edited by HiTechGent; 01-08-2006 at 07:00 PM.
