umrjmac

iTrader: (2)

Hey Long time troll, umm not quite virgin poster, but we can pretend...just be gentle

Anyway...heres where I am at. I have a pretty good idea of what I am going to be installing in my car. I really have just 1 big decision left regarding equipment, but I would also like some feedback regarding power (alternator, battery/batteries?, caps, etc)

I am primarily going for SQ rather than SPL.

The system plan:
Kenwood Excelon XXV-01D Head Unit
JL 1000/1
2x JL 12w6v2s in a custom SubThump box
Dynamat...2 bulk packs of Xtreme should be here Wednesday

Here is my last little decision. Please let me know what you think are the pros and cons of each.

JL 450/4
2x JL XR650Csi component speakers (Use the 6.5" and crossover from the second set for sail panel midbass fill and toss the tweeters)

Pros:
* With having the 2 sets of components (using only the midbass driver for sail panels), the system should have great fill...the highs will still be directional of course, but everything else should make you feel immersed in the sound.

OR

JL 300/2
single set of ZR650Csi speakers

Pros:
* This will probably cost a little bit less than the other setup, even with moving to a better set of component speakers.
* I will be able to get the 1000/1 and 300/2 amps to sit side-by-side on the shelf in front of the subthump box whereas this was going to present a bit of a problem with a 1000/1 and 450/4 setup.
* Imaging. With only have a single set of components, when setup it should feel like being at a concert.

I am really on the fence on which amp/component set to go with. My biggest concern with using a single set of components is that it will sound "hollow" and just not have a lot of body. Unfortunately, I have not had the opportunity to sit in a (for all intensive purposes) 2 seat car with a single set of speakers to give this a listen. However, I really like the idea of just placing the amps on that shelf and not having to worry about where I am going to find space for both of them.

Any feedback on this choice would be appreciated

Ok. On to part 2!

I would like some feedback on power requirements.

I figure that I am going to go with a high output alternator and some sort of optima battery with this. Will that be enough? Do you have a recommendation on alternator size or vendor? Which Optima? I think that the redtops get more use than yellowtops for this sort of application, but I could be mistaken.

Everything that I have read basically says that adding caps to a system is more of a bandaid than a true solution, so I doubt I will go that way.

Is there anything else that you would recommend adding to ensure that we're not going to play the dimming headlight game?

Is there anything that I haven't taken into consideration?

Thank you for your time.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

I would go with the 450/4 setup (your first setup). Check the fuse size requirements for the amps, This will give you what kind of power the amp will push. The general rule is every 10amps is 100watts of output. Yes, adding additional batteries and caps are only bandaids. The optiumum battery however will give you constant power unlike a traditional battery (until it dies of course). The redtop batteries are not designed for high powered stereos, only yellowtop ones are. It's designed to take the heavy constant load. The redtop is not warrantied by optimum if you use it for stereo systems. Remember, the yellowtop one is the proper battery to use for high powered stereo systems.

Honestly, if you are going to compete, I would change the alternator for sure. Most blinking lights are usually because of a bad ground. Make sure you have a good ground location.

I am in a similar setup like you. I am going with mb quart qsc-216s front and rear. I have the monsoon setup and was going to put some qsc-210s in the 4" in the rear, but pointless, I won't be able to hear them.

Kicker kx350-4 for the components and the subs are two kicker L7 15" with a kx2500.

I like SQ, but I also like the thump. 2 sets of components I think will sound the best. That's why i picked your first setup.

edit:types

umrjmac

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for the feedback The fuse rating tip is a very good one. I will definitely look into that.

Any other feedback?

firebirdude

Maybe you're trying to go for the all JL setup... but ever think of buying something else for the sails? A true midrange/midbass driver? Check out ED's selection:
http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=15&cur=USD
It will save some money and you can use the x-over on the 450/4 for them. They will no doubt have more kick then the JL component woofer. Just an idea.

When buying a H/O alt make sure it does H/O AT IDLE!!! Otherwise it's useless for daily driving. As for Optima, red or yellow. If you plan on playing the stereo with the car off, yellow top is a must. It's a deep cycle battery. The red is not. If you never do this, then any battery will a high CCA rating will work the same. Let's be real guys. Just because it's an Optima doesn't give it special powers.

wickedwarlock

iTrader: (4)

well almost right on the optima battery. A convention batter isn't the same as a deep cycle battery period. I don't care how much cca you give it. It's not. Any deep cycle battery will charge 2x+ faster than a conventional battery and no matter how hard you push it, a deep cycle will put out it's same output even if it's down to half the battery life. a conventional battery doesn't posses those two facts.

Advantages of the OPTIMA Deep Cycle Battery:

Delivers higher peak amps faster than conventional batteries
Provides up to twice the life of conventional batteries
More consistent voltage across the discharge curve
Superior cold and hot weather performance vs. conventional batteries
Available in models with SAE posts, stainless threaded studs, or both
Spill-proof, even if the case is physically ruptured
Will not off-gas in normal operation, eliminating fumes, odor & corrosion
Over 14x more shock and vibration resistant than conventional batteries
Provides more power from a smaller package
True zero maintenance
Holds charge better during periods of nonuse
Operates in any position without spilling
Offers proven durability & performance

from their site, but these general rules also apply to any other deep cycle battery. Rockford Fosgate has their version of a deep cycle battery that's very good too, not just optiumum. Like I said, any deep cycle batter is better than any traditional battery period.