DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Alright so I've been reading through this section 'stickies first' as best as my non mathematical brain will let me for a week or so to try and come up with an affordable replacement solution to my dead system.

I've blown a front and a sail panel and decided to go with after market speakers.
Fair enough.
I got crazy and bought two sets of Alpine SPS-170a's off ebay, if they ever show up.
With the plans to run two in the fronts, and two in the sails using the signals from the hatch speakers (as per recommendation I read in a thread in one of many searches).

So now I am left with 2 JL Audio 6W0's to either sell back on ebay, or put to use in the car to round off the system with some bass. (I bought them about two years ago thinking they would be good as the sail replacements, two failed install attempts later they are collecting dust and depreciating)

I am not an audiophile by any means, but I would like an improvement over what the stock had to offer, before my woofers got stuck. I don't need a ton of bass shaking my rear view, but I do listen to a mix of hip-hop and rock types so I would like it to be at least noticeable/felt more than what the stockers did.

I'd be willing to dish out $1000 to replace the entire setup if it meant stout kit that could be ported to another vehicle (AMP and SUB) in the future.
But around half of that would be nice if it can get me a reasonable improvement from stock. (leaves $$ for go fast parts, which is a priority we all understand)

Two proposed solutions..

Prob an Alpine HU regardless, as its color scheme and quality reputation make me happy, CDA-9883 or CDA-9885 depending on the final total co$t.

Conundrum part.....

Option 1)
Buy a Hifonics Zeus ZXi 8006 and use its "4 x 55-Watts + 200-Watts x 1-ch RMS @ 4-Ohms" To drive the 4 SPS-170A's which apparently run 40 Watt RMS @ 4 ohm, so that should be plenty.
then use the 5th channel "200-Watts x 1-ch RMS @ 4-Ohms" to run the two JL Audio 6W0 in line just behind the back seat (in a box that shouldn't need to be too big, not sure where to point them though) to round out the bass section.

Option 2)
Spend $1000+ on two amps and a 10" and stealth box to power a full shebang system. (I'd research more before I bought amps and subs, but from what I gather it would easily top $1000)
That would mean a stealth box, amp mount panel for two big amps, etc..
Kind of a lot to do for me.

I'd appreciate comments on any of the following..

1) If the proposed setup with the Hifonics amp would even work running it the way I stated.
I guess if I run the two "subs" in line it would create an 8 ohm load, which I don't know if the amp running at 4ohm would run that, I'm guessing it would since the 6W0's have an RMS hovering around 75W and that single channel puts out 200W @ 4ohm.
I'll read it again, and again... but the math I gather from the ohm tutorial leads me to believe that would be somewhere around 100W driving each which is more than would be required.

2) Powering and running the two JL 6W0's would even be worth/noticeable to do.
I like to think it would be an improvement over stock, being in a sealed box and run off a decent amp/HU combo, but don't have the experience to back that up.


Sorry, its a long post and alot to read, I tend to be a bit wordy.
I'd appreciate any thoughts one could give, I tried to give all the pertinant info I could

Thanks for any help,
T.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, you can use that Hifonics amp and run a single 10" in a stealth box. Those 2 6" Mid-bass drivers are not going to satisfy you for bass. 200 watts into a 10" sub will make for some good bass. 6" speakers won't generate much output at all at the frequency that you are thinking of. Bass is about 20-100 hz. Those 6" are good from about 80-350 HZ. So they will add in sound like Drum taps, but not booming bass or anything much below 80HZ.

I'd just sell the JL's and buy a decint 10" and a box and be set.

Your choice for a HU is good. Plenty of flexibility to be had with setting up the sound the way you'll want it.

I've been thinking about adding in a frequency chart that shows certain sounds and what frequency they operate at in the FAQ. Then list the uses for common speaker sizes. (the common frequency that they operate in.)

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the comments, appreciate it.
I didn't want to accept it but it makes sense, I can imagine people seeing those two dinky little speakers in the rear hatch and talkin smack.
I doub't ill get more than $100 for the both of em but whatever.
I guess now I'll have to spend some $$ on something respectable, which is fine, I do like the bass in my face.

sbusby

Personally, I think those subs are great. I would buy a Memphis 1600 or 1300 Belle amp, and power everything cleanly and efficiently. They are both a hybrid amp capable of doing your sps' clean and your sub with alot of power. I have a 1300 in my car now, and it is powering my watt hungry L7's with no problem at all.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Well I broke down and bought a whole kit.
I hate to seem like a fanboy but most of it is Alpine stuff.
I hope I picked decent and matching stuff..
May not have been the bottom dollar best deal I could pull off, but I just kind of wanted to get this done and installed so I can move on to other stuff... I hope its that easy anyway...

2 Amps, 1 Sub, 1 HU

HU - Alpine CDA-9883
Speaker amp - ALPINE MRP-F250 / 40W x 4 @ 4ohm
Sub amp - ALPINE MRP-M650 / 400 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
Sub - Rockford Fosgate Punch P310D4 / 400 watts RMS @ 4ohm

I'll have to buy a stealth box and I might try building the amp rack if I'm feeling crazy.

So far I'm roughly 650 for parts but I have the enclosure, wire and maybe sound deadener to get yet so we'll see.

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Info for your Sub-woofer:

There is a break in period. Follow this link for directions.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...%3Afaqs.faq_id

Also, good choice. It will work well in the .6 ft^3 that stealth boxes usually have.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Wow, thanks alot for the heads up man, I appreciate it.