HELP! Bad voltage draw. Where to start diagnosing?
#1
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HELP! Bad voltage draw. Where to start diagnosing?
So, I have a voltage draw from hell aparently, b/c if the car sits for more than 2 days without running it is deader than ****. Everytime I think I have it charged enough to make it a day, I drive it, park it, and go back out 4hrs later to crank it, and I have to get jumped off. The car is wicked and it wont even ****** crank..... How embarissing.....
I cant figure out where it is coming from. NOTHING stays on! All I can think is it might be the aftermarket inline fuel pump, but how would it be drawing if it is tied in with the stock fuel pump? Any ideas on where to start? I hate electrical junk.....
I cant figure out where it is coming from. NOTHING stays on! All I can think is it might be the aftermarket inline fuel pump, but how would it be drawing if it is tied in with the stock fuel pump? Any ideas on where to start? I hate electrical junk.....
#2
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First of all, are you sure it's not just a bad battery that won't hold a charge? Have you had it tested? Even a relatively new battery could have a shorted cell.
Testing for a current draw involves connecting an ammeter at the battery and then removing and installing fuses (to disconnect circuits) until you find the circuit that is causing the draw. It's not difficult but it can be a long and tedious process.
Testing for a current draw involves connecting an ammeter at the battery and then removing and installing fuses (to disconnect circuits) until you find the circuit that is causing the draw. It's not difficult but it can be a long and tedious process.
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Hey that is a good idea(the fuse thing). Im not too great at electrical junk.
The battery will take a charge and last time I tested it on a load testing guage, it maintained CC&C all over 500. Which is low for the battery(according to the advertised ratings) but it should still be plenty acceptable. Im starting to wonder if this isnt the case. Over time with constant draining it has just killed a cell.
It started in December. It would sit 2weeks and it wouldnt start...of course it was in the negative degrees in Utah. And the time period for energy loss has progressively gotten shorter. From 2 weeks, to a week, to 3 days, to that day.
BTW: the battery was bought new in December(which I well know, means nothing).
The battery will take a charge and last time I tested it on a load testing guage, it maintained CC&C all over 500. Which is low for the battery(according to the advertised ratings) but it should still be plenty acceptable. Im starting to wonder if this isnt the case. Over time with constant draining it has just killed a cell.
It started in December. It would sit 2weeks and it wouldnt start...of course it was in the negative degrees in Utah. And the time period for energy loss has progressively gotten shorter. From 2 weeks, to a week, to 3 days, to that day.
BTW: the battery was bought new in December(which I well know, means nothing).
#4
You could disconnect the battery the next time you're going to park for a few days. When you reconnect, if the battery is dead, you'll know your battery is toast and it's not your car draining it. Easy and free way to test.