chad3113

iTrader: (1)

My stock speakers are blown in the rear passenger area, along with the stupid *** things located in the hatch area. I want to change ALL of the factory speakers and throw some Infinitys in there (but open to suggestions). After reading up on these Firebirds i have come to realize they are harder to change the speakers out than the cars i have messed with before...

Heres your chance stereo guru guys, I don't know **** about ohms, and all that garbage so if you were to change all of your speakers out, on a 250-350 dollar budget, what would you guys do???

PLEASE post speaker model numbers because all i'm going to do is read this threads suggestions and pick which speakers with the best reviews.

You could also throw in what 10" sub you like the best. I will not give up my trunk space so i'll be going with the "stealth box" idea. Thanks fellas.

-Chad

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

Bump b/c i need suggestions ...

95bat

iTrader: (1)

$250-$350 isn't going to buy speakers and a sub and everything you need to go along with it.

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

I understand that, the 250-350 is for the highs/mids only.

95bat

iTrader: (1)

Does that include an amp to power them? Or just for the speakers?

imnotplutonium

iTrader: (4)

I'll find you a set of speakers and a 4 ch. amp for 350. Local flea market where I get my stuff. infinity speakers, boss (low end) amp and wiring, plus a boss (again low end) x-over. cost me a total of $400 even. they dont deal much with tax lol

edit: I wont find them for you but I can point you in that direction

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

I want to use the stock head unit and amp so thats why i'm looking for suggestions on what to use with the crappy factory ****.

I'm out of the whole highschool, blow the neighbors doors in stage, but i do want something that i can hear with the tops off and windows down at 75mph.

Just looking for some nice sounding stock replacements that match up well with the factory power ranges/freq.

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

Thats cool, if you can find some nice crap for cheap i'd be more than willing to pay for shipping and throw you a few extra bucks for your time.

Right now, i'm looking at ebay and crutchfield for prices...

95bat

iTrader: (1)

PLEASE don't buy anything from the flea market! It is not nice equipment at all!

It's possible to get an amp, speakers, and wiring for the mids/highs for $350, just no subwoofer.
It is also possible, if you'd like to go in stages, to do the front doors with a nice set of components and an amp, then add the speakers in the sail panels if you want to in the future. You can get a set of Rainbow SLC265s for the front doors and a cheap amp to power them for $350. The only bad thing about the Rainbows is that they're upgrading the SLC line soon. They're getting a new tweeter and they will be bi-ampable. They might be upgrading one other thing too, I can't remember now. The current ones still sound awesome though.

To recommend speakers we have to know if you like highs that are smooth or if you want them a little more bright and in your face.

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've had infinity highs in ALL of my vehicles and LOVE the way they sound. From what i hear they are considered "bright" so thats what i like i suppose.

I've also always been partial to Rockford Fosgate He2. Right now i have an M/A Audio M689i that i will be using for my Sub. I'm pretty sure its an 800watt amp.

So as i sit now, i'll be getting the stealth box with an HE2 running off the M/A audio amp.

Like i said, i really just want some plug and play highs/mids without having to install a seperate amp for them. I'm just looking for speakers that work well in the factory power range levels. Will the Infinity Reference series work in the doors and hatch areas?

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

95bat, on a side note, what do you think a fair price would be for a Crossfire 705d 5 channel Amp? I have one from my old mustang and really have no use for it now. The model is discontinued, but it was an $800 amp...


EDIT: Here are the specs on the M/A audio amp I will be using for the sub, would the HE2 in the stealth box match up well with this amp?

http://www.mobileonesales.com/product_p/m689i.htm

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

focal makes some nice speakers for the rear and mids but they are pricey look for open box or discontinued stuff its a lot cheaper and you can still get a good speaker check out crutchfield, http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FNWQMr2...cc=07&skipvs=T

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

Hows this looking...
Front Doors: Infinity 6.5''
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-C3xwl2s...00&I=1086010CS
OR Polk 5.25''
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-C3xwl2s...00&I=107DB5250

Hatch Area: Polk 4'' (Don't know if this will work??)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-C3xwl2s...400&I=107DB400

I don't know what to do with the rear sails since they are not wired to produce any highs

Amp
http://www.mobileonesales.com/product_p/m689i.htm

Sub KENWOOD
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YIdzula...520&I=113W2511
OR POLK MOMO
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YIdzula...20&I=107MM2104
OR INFINITY
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YIdzula...520&I=1081050W

The only prob i see with the Inifnity sub is that the recommended box volume is .75 and i beleive the stealthbox is .6 What exactly could this cause?

Opinions? Comments? Questions?

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

the center or sail panel speakers are just for mid range just buy a non component woofer or one with the tweeter built in to it it does'nt really need the high range because all the others speakers will cover that but i think the factory amp will filter some of high range anyway so it would be pointless everything else looks pretty good though as for the box you build your own out some medium density particle board 1 1/2 drywall screws and some wood glue buy some cheap carpet from pep boys and a 3m spray adhiesive for the carpet and build your own custom box and put it where ever you like it should only take 2 or 3 hours and cost like 20-30 dollars tops/ it will fit better in your car and you can make it the right size, for your speaker, so you get the best sound out of it, also the front door speakers may or may not bolt right in i. had to make a custom bracket out of plexi-glass. it came with some mounting brackets, but they didnt fit, i went back to where i bought them, told them the speakers wont fit and they gave me some more brackets, but they diddnt fit either, i was going to return everything and say f-it but then remembered i had old 1/4 plexi-glass in storage, so i traced the factory one (witch would not hold the speaker) on to the plexi and cut it with a jig saw worked real nice, just take your time and think everything through before you remove/install each pair they all need something different to remove and install you dont want to poke holes in your new speakers it realy sucks good luck let us know how it goes, later

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

the lower the ohms the better the speaker for subs anyway dont just buy an amp based on peak power, on cheap amps it is usually rated at 16+ volts the car at best will only see 14.7 v if you are useing the amp only for the sub buy a 2 channel amp hook up the + from one channel and - from the other to the corrisponding + and - on the speaker, that will then be bridged mono, it cuts the ohms in half and allows the amp to put out more power ,on most amps they claim doulbe, i dont know how that MA AUDIO can go from 180 watts to 800 watts just by going bridged mono, my rockford fosgate puts out that much and it cost me over $500, buyer beware, make sure you buy a sub that can handle at least 25% more power then the amp is rated for this will keep you from blowing i found these keep in mind i am big fosgate fan ive used there stuff for 15 years i have one amp that is ten years old and still kick hard http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZpfeF15...575P4004&cc=07
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7QT7dFm...75P2D410&cc=07
the speaker has two sets of + - connections this allows you to hook up two bridged channels thus the four channel amp or you can take the + on one side of the speaker and hook it to the - on the other side and it is now bridges and cut the ohms in half, from 4 to 2 then bridge a 2 channel amp and you see 1 ohm as stated above when you cut the ohms in half you double the power cheaper amps cant do this the are 1 ohm stable there is a lot to this and you likely dont care you just want it louder buy the fosgate stuff its top notch and wont cost much more then the stuff you found, this is new but the fosgate is CEA-6000 compliant that means it certified to be the the power it claims many amps are not as stated previously stay away from MA AUDIO please you get what you pay for and you will be paying for crap stick with popular name brands they may be rated for less power but they will put out more a cheap will work ok for highs and mids but even then will fail if pushed to hard to long i used to have some cheap stuff i wont buy it any more it costs more in the long run for repairs or replacement i just want you to be as informed as possible soory its so long again good luck,,later

chad3113

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. The thing is i already have the MA Audio amp from a previous car. So right now i'm trying to find a sub that matches well with that amp.

From what i've read on the internet, since my amp is a 2 channel, it would be best to get a single 4ohm voice coil sub. Then i can bridge my amp as you stated. I would love to get an oldschool Rockford HE2 but these are dual vioice coils. (Like i said, this is all **** i've read and i don't know anything about the techinical stuff so feel free to correct me)

What do you think will sound better the Infinity 6.5'' or Polk 5.25''?

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

i have infinity in the front myself they sound real good, nice clean sound, i'm not real sure about polk, sorry to hear about the amp, i would buy the infinity sub as well it appears that it has a larger frequency range,as well as db being higher, and it looks better as well, later

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

PM Sent!!