Security System won't let me Start Car!!!
09-24-2007, 10:19 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Security System won't let me Start Car!!! Hey guys, My security system is goin frigin hay wire. The alarm will not shut off, i had to disconnect the horn so i could think.
I bought a new key thinking it could not read that peice of junk chip. Becuz it was already going bad. But that did not work.
The key will allow me to do everything besides start the car and unlock the doors elctronically. Im not sure if the fuel pump came on, but that doesnt matter.
The lights are flashing on the outside and inside instrument panel and radio. Every time i put the key in the ignition, the alarm trips and no start.
Has anyone had this problem b4 or DOES ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM!?!?!
If not, the car is goin in the shop tomorrow and she has never seen anybody else but me, but I have no damn information on the system thus i cannot fix it. D*mn IT t0 Hell!!
PLEASE HELP!! THANKZ!
I bought a new key thinking it could not read that peice of junk chip. Becuz it was already going bad. But that did not work.
The key will allow me to do everything besides start the car and unlock the doors elctronically. Im not sure if the fuel pump came on, but that doesnt matter.
The lights are flashing on the outside and inside instrument panel and radio. Every time i put the key in the ignition, the alarm trips and no start.
Has anyone had this problem b4 or DOES ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM!?!?!
If not, the car is goin in the shop tomorrow and she has never seen anybody else but me, but I have no damn information on the system thus i cannot fix it. D*mn IT t0 Hell!!
PLEASE HELP!! THANKZ!
09-25-2007, 07:54 AM
#3
Unless you have an aftermarket alarm installed, you have two separate problems. The factory provides two systems - the Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS) and the Content Theft Deterrent System (CTDS).
VATS is the system that reads the resistor on the key and determines whether to allow the car to start. It has no visual or audible alarm other than the security light on the dash. When the wrong resistance is detected (either because of the using wrong key or because the key is dirty) the security light will go on and stay on. You will have to wait three minutes before trying again. If the resistor can't be read (missing or damaged pellet in the key) the security light will flash. You don't have to wait to try another key in this situation.
CTDS is what most people think of as an alarm. It is connected to the door switches and has a shock sensor in the right quarter panel. If a door is opened or the shock sensor is activated by a blow to the car, the lights will flash and the horns will honk. However, it has no connnection to the ignition/starter system so it would not prevent the car from starting.
On the other hand, aftermarket alarms usually have some sort of starter disable as well as the alarm siren and light flashing. If your alarm has a siren rather than just the horns, you can be sure it is an aftermarket unit.
VATS is the system that reads the resistor on the key and determines whether to allow the car to start. It has no visual or audible alarm other than the security light on the dash. When the wrong resistance is detected (either because of the using wrong key or because the key is dirty) the security light will go on and stay on. You will have to wait three minutes before trying again. If the resistor can't be read (missing or damaged pellet in the key) the security light will flash. You don't have to wait to try another key in this situation.
CTDS is what most people think of as an alarm. It is connected to the door switches and has a shock sensor in the right quarter panel. If a door is opened or the shock sensor is activated by a blow to the car, the lights will flash and the horns will honk. However, it has no connnection to the ignition/starter system so it would not prevent the car from starting.
On the other hand, aftermarket alarms usually have some sort of starter disable as well as the alarm siren and light flashing. If your alarm has a siren rather than just the horns, you can be sure it is an aftermarket unit.
09-25-2007, 08:59 AM
#4
Staging Lane
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Thankz for the info guys,
Seawolf18, Thankz for the useful info but im not into ghetto riging. But i ado appreciate it.
WhiteBird00, very useful info. Thankz
The security light has always stayed on solid since i bought the car back in march of 06.
But now the security light is flashing along with the rest of the lights.
Then the rest of the lights stopped flashing, but the security light continues to flash.
The car is at this guys garage right now but he's not going to get around to it 4 awhile. He beleives it is the wires in the lock cylinder. I do not know, I have no prior knowledge of this problem or the components in the system.
WHAT DO YOU THINK I SHOULD LOOK INTO??
Seawolf18, Thankz for the useful info but im not into ghetto riging. But i ado appreciate it.
WhiteBird00, very useful info. Thankz
The security light has always stayed on solid since i bought the car back in march of 06.
But now the security light is flashing along with the rest of the lights.
Then the rest of the lights stopped flashing, but the security light continues to flash.
The car is at this guys garage right now but he's not going to get around to it 4 awhile. He beleives it is the wires in the lock cylinder. I do not know, I have no prior knowledge of this problem or the components in the system.
WHAT DO YOU THINK I SHOULD LOOK INTO??
09-25-2007, 09:31 AM
#6
Well, if it is the VATS system causing the problem, the first thing to do is clean the key (or replace it as you did) and clean the ignition cylinder contacts. You can do this using contact cleaner spray available from Radio Shack. Spray a good shot of the cleaner into the ignition cylinder, insert and remove your key several times to dislodge any grime that might be in there, and then wait for it to dry (3-4 minutes). This will solve the problem most of the time.
If that doesn't fix the problem, there are two other possibilities - the contacts or wires in the steering column are damaged or the BCM is defective (there is no separate VATS module in 98+ f-bodies). Bypassing the VATS system as described in the linked article posted earlier will tell you if the steering column is the problem.
If that doesn't fix the problem, there are two other possibilities - the contacts or wires in the steering column are damaged or the BCM is defective (there is no separate VATS module in 98+ f-bodies). Bypassing the VATS system as described in the linked article posted earlier will tell you if the steering column is the problem.
09-25-2007, 05:56 PM
#7
Staging Lane
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Thankz a lot man.
The guy found the problem. It was one of the wires coming off of the lock cylinder. It just snapped it in two.
I wish I would have took the steering wheel off last night when he told me that may be the problem. But like a douche bag I didnt and just let him fix it since included the brake problem I was having, I had not driven my car for over a week so I was very very frustrated.
Anyway dude charged me $360 for parts and labor. A big burn in the pocket for some little BS problem.
But thankz again for you guys help and support.
The guy found the problem. It was one of the wires coming off of the lock cylinder. It just snapped it in two.
I wish I would have took the steering wheel off last night when he told me that may be the problem. But like a douche bag I didnt and just let him fix it since included the brake problem I was having, I had not driven my car for over a week so I was very very frustrated.
Anyway dude charged me $360 for parts and labor. A big burn in the pocket for some little BS problem.
But thankz again for you guys help and support.
