boola1341

iTrader: (1)

I have a 1800 watt rms ma audio amp pushing 2 12 inch audiobahns. My headlights are dimming really bad. what i wanted to do is get a 160 amp alternator with the kinetik hc800 battery. with that combination that should solve the headlight problem. what do u guys think..... or is that to much??

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

What kind of wiring are you using? I would suggest a capacitor also. But a fater battery and a higher amperage alternator will also help.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Let's not start this debate again...a capacitor is not going to do any good - they never do, it's simple physics.

I'd go with a 200 amp alternator - it costs about the same but gives better output at idle. I have one in mine and the voltmeter never dips below 12 no matter what I have running.

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

is the 200 amp alternator a direct replacement and can the kinetik hc800 battery replace the factory battery. I'm using a 1/0 gauge wire for my amp. I had a capacitor but that didn't help!!

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Some alternators are bolt on, in the factory place.
Get a Red top and call it done.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

The Optima would be best, at least you know it fits and works well(just costs a grip). The wiring should be good. But, I still stick to my capacitor crap. In my last car, I could see the RPM's drop at high lows. When I threw the capacitor in, it was fine. The lights did not even dim anymore(well, no where near as much).

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, the 200-amp alternator is a bolt-on replacement except that you should upgrade the cable size at the same time. In fact, upgrading the "big 3" cables would be a good idea.

umrjmac

iTrader: (2)

1800 watts /14.4 Volts = 125Amps just for the sub amp (at RMS, not peak).

Stock alternator is 105 Amps, I think.

Personally I would start looking at a 230+ Amp alternator, just on principle. I have a 235Amp alternator in my car and i am running a JL 1000/1 and a JL 300/2 at present...and I can still get the headlights to dim slightly when I try to make myself go deaf in the thing.

Also, I would second the motion to be sure to hit the "big 3" if you haven't already.

Just my 2 cents

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The interesting thing is that the 200-amp alternator actually has more output at idle than the 235-amp one does. I guess they're different designs. There was a thread comparing them here.

umrjmac

iTrader: (2)

Yep It is all about the output at a given RPM. Personally, I spend most of my time in the car on the highway at 1800 rpm, so I went with the bigger one. The one that I have is made by the same company.

I think that my biggest point was that 160 is waaaaaay low for what he is trying to use for an amplifier, not overkill as he originally thought in his post.



Edit:

Oh, I forgot, what is the actual impedance of your subs as seen by the amplifier? I just looked at the MA's site and it looks like their power ratings are rated for a 1 ohm load. If your subs are wired such that you have a 2 or 4 ohm impedance, then you're probably looking at more like 540 to 1080 Watts RMS, so you would need considerably less alternator to effectively handle that. (assuming that the amplifier's power consumption scales along with its delivered power output...which I am not sure on...I am not an audio expert, I have only really played with the setup in my car)

Undertow74

iTrader: (45)

yea def. a new red top...or napa's gel cell i forget what its called. as for the capacitor thing....In my opinion they def. work, then again i have a 6farad cap. depends on what you are running. a cap obviously didnt work for you as you said, so therefor get the alternator and battery!

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Personally I've never used caps. I always felt they were a bandaid for a substandard electrical system. If you have a good alternator with the right amperage for your application, the right size wire going to the amp for power and ground, coupled with upgraded big three you should have no issues at all with electrical issues like dimming headlights.